Oz Booster
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posted February 29, 2012 03:45 PM
Revisiting oil mods
I have my first 14 apart for oil upgrades for turbo , this is going to get flogged, its first outing will be at Aussie speedweek , running as a naked bike aiming at 220-230mph so i want to get it right first time 
Any and all experianced help and opinions will be appreciated 
hi temp 2 pack in the transmission supply gallerys and pressed a piece of 2mm wire into it for a defined size oil passage.
looking at the piston squirters, how necessary are they to reduce size on ?, current pins and pistons look good but another set i brought to changover the pistons after coating have galled small ends , so i am cautious about reducing the oil to that area ??
Billet (hi pressure ???) oil relieve actually tests a less pressure to begin opening the port than the std one when tested on the kitchen scales with screwdriver , thinking of shimming the std and binning the billet
Bearings had a polish to them , may have had an oil surge when at the drags , lowered but stock length been running mid 1.6 60's not real quick so i was a bit surprised to see the polish , thinking about and have ordered bearings with more clearance
mains were more of a worry as the outside bearing on the left has a mark on the outside top and inside bottom, sort of says i need line boring or there is a lot of case movement
oil pump end cover coming
Anything else i need to look at ???
  
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Oz Booster
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posted February 29, 2012 05:26 PM
I shimmed the relieve valve, 1.6mm shim, and removed same from top of valve
opening pressure on the scales has gone from 18.4 lb to 24 lb , so i'm thinking pressure will rise from 50 at 4k to around 60 or at least adding another 10 psi anywhere the pump has enough rpm
but otherwise should keep same function, i suspect the valve does not fully clear the holes so the hi rpm pressure increases to greater than the base pressure
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quick6
Expert Class
Posts: 257
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posted March 01, 2012 09:08 AM
Adams does a case mod. didn't get to see exactly what they done. but coby said since they started doing this mod they haven't lost a bearing yet.
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2006 zx14, fully dressed and sliding(Charlie Sheen)
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
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posted March 01, 2012 10:07 AM
i heard getting rid of the balancer shafts and putting dummie shafts in help..
but if you get to much oil pressure your gonna start blowing oil filter gaskets or busting oil filters
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RICH CRAFT 1
Zone Head
Posts: 681
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posted March 01, 2012 10:38 AM
you don't need that much oil pressure, 80 pounds is good to go. On the transmission restriction oil Galleries I use a 3/16 Allen screw, the Galley is about 0.130, I drill and tap the Galley So the screw goes in about 0.065 or about half the depth. You have to be careful when drilling and tapping this galley, Not to go to deep but if you do, you can move down the line a little further and start over. Use a flat file to clean it up. put the screws in with Loctite.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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Oz Booster
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posted March 01, 2012 01:49 PM
Guys
Quick 6 , if i lived in the US i would just send them to someone with experiance, i'm getting over learning the hard way as i get older , there is no one in Aussie doing this sort of thing .
1badzx12 , i had thought about removing the balancers, but without balancing the crank i am not sure its a good idea , resultant harmonics may do more harm than just leaving that side of things alone , again the experiance thing , if i knew more i would be more comfortable making the changes.
Ken, thats simple and easily removable or adjustable , will remember that for next time
sounds like your choking the gallery to a similar size to my .080 , so i have less concerns i have over done it ,
I will check the pressure when its running , can always remove the shim or use a thinner washer , mainly found it annoying to buy a supposibly upgraded relieve valve to find its junk
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06redzx14
Pro
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posted March 01, 2012 04:45 PM
Pics please!
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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Oz Booster
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posted March 10, 2012 02:02 PM
Speedweek was cancelled due to rain 
anyhow
couple of pics , sorry about the quality of my phone pics,
modified oil gallery
Odd wear on main bearing , top bearing was worn on opposite side
and throw in a few from the turbo
sealing the frame
CC exhaust adapted to the gt30 and mvs wastegate fitting
turbo in place
intercooler i am trying, suspect its too small but i'm only wanting 15 psi on these stock pistons and rods
coated pistons going in the hole
565cc injectors from a subaru only needed short spacers to lift the rail for fit
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KZScott
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high on speed
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posted March 10, 2012 08:15 PM
on my 12 i restricted oil to the starter clutch, and trans. dummy shaft instead of balancer. added oil squirters as only 2 pistons get sprayed and I thought all 4 should.
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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Kawi9
Parking Attendant
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posted March 11, 2012 08:28 AM
Hi OZ Booster,
Could you tell me what is the size of your water to air intercooler ?
Thanks
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted March 11, 2012 09:15 AM
what model subaru injectors?
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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1badzx12r
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posted March 11, 2012 09:47 AM
quote:
Hi OZ Booster,
Could you tell me what is the size of your water to air intercooler ?
Thanks
thats 2 of us what brand or were you got it from
are you gonna use an ice tank or you doing the extra radiator with fan
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Oz Booster
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posted March 11, 2012 01:50 PM
Thanks Scott, was looking at what you and Shane did or had done , both were very handy references , had to think long and hard about the squirters, as they use a lot of oil and i would have preferred to limit the flow but keep the directional accuracy , thought about a screw in jet like an idle air jet , but settled on leave it alone
Injectors were not from this seller but identical , 12 hole good pattern, have use them on several bikes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-00-07-565cc-Fuel-Injectors-Subaru-WRX-EJ20-Top-feed-/110525419502?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19bbd40fee&vxp=mtr
and are readily available in many cc rates , Denso use this style of injector for many applications
Intercooler is from Frozen boost
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=226&osCsid=5299c6139ad43e9f075141e1f3f07488
Funny thing is the warning they give about using water cores and not air cores is not relevant on this unit as it has an air type core , and quite restrictive , i will be testing before and after temps and pressures, and i think this will fail .have an alternate up pipe ready
But did think about using 2 of them and splitting the intake charge up each side .
Its not critical as i will be using c 16 and can fit water inj easily and ~ 15 psi is all i am comfortable with on these pistons
also doing one for a car application with much more space
Bike will have an external heat exchanger and pump
similar to how how i did my busa
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1badzx12r
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posted March 11, 2012 02:16 PM
 Edited By: 1badzx12r on 11 Mar 2012 22:16
what i've run into is after i've added so much stuff on the bike the charging system needs upgrading.. i got to find the power to run a fan and a pump..
i was gonna use this one and mount it inside the air box http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-5X3-5X4-WATER-LIQUID-AIR-ALUMINUM-INTERCOOLER-/160607341114?hash=item2564f18a3a&item=160607341114&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
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Oz Booster
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posted March 11, 2012 02:55 PM
I'm counting calories , the water pump uses 1.6 amps,
http://www.lightobject.com/18Lm-278GPH-High-Volume-DC12V-Brushless-Water-oil-Pump-P403.aspx
intank fuel pump will be around 8 amps http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fpspecs.html
piggyback ecu , bit hard to tell, is driving injectors and switching outputs but not a great load
http://tunertools.com/prodimages/AEM/manual/10-1910_instructions_for_30-1910_FIC.pdf
Do you know just how much draw the std charging system will support ? i usually try to keep to a minimum and see how it responds logging voltages , same sort of draw on the busa is fine , and the 14 will not be running a lighting system
That intercooler looks better than mine, it has the free flowing water type core .
How will you mount it in the airbox ?
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1badzx12r
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posted March 11, 2012 03:34 PM
i was gonna cut both end pieces off and point it towards the steering neck .. then sheet metal the sides to block off boost leaks..
i pull the fuse on my bike at the track ..
extra's to electrics
oil scavenger pump 3 amps
external fuel pump on boost 15 amps at idle 8 amps
wideband and 02 sensors 2 amps
air compressor 4amps
power commander
mps kill box
by the volt gauge on the dash i can't get pass 13.5 when charged up after starting.. i taught my charging system was weak .. but its not ..its the draw of everything running ..
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Oz Booster
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Posts: 230
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posted March 11, 2012 04:01 PM
I forgot about the scavenge pump 1.8 a
and wideband i'll use your figures
Look at your battery rating too, a mate was having issues with a hi amp pump running methanol and his 6 amp rated battery was the problem, he changed to a higher output and solved the issues, basicly the charging system averages enough output, your not at hi boost for long so peak output can be supported by the battery if it has a sufficant discharge rate
Sheet metal at the steering head end so you can direct the flow to the entry ?
If you need to cut into the airbox to fit it would do like Scott and fit a bigger unit
i use the same cores with ice box and have measures only 10c deg temp rise at 28 psi with 3/4 psi pressure difference side to side on a gt35 turbo'd busa
Would have copied Scott myself but fairly sure if i cut and welded the frame like that the wheels would not point the same direction
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1badzx12r
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posted March 11, 2012 04:48 PM
no i'm not cutting into the frame. my results would be the same as yours . what i'm gonna do is slide the cooler in thru the triangle cover ..without the end pieces on the intercooler with 1 end at the steering neck and the other end at the throttle body intakes.. without the intercooler for fitment i can't say 100% its gonna work.. but the measurements are close... then i'll center it and close off each side with sheet metal or aluminum .. i'm only looking for 8lbs to 12lbs ..i'm running E85 on stock motor with an upgraded fuel system .. i'm not sold on the ice box due to condensation leaking of the box from sweating in hot weather ... maybe a diaper or something
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Oz Booster
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posted March 11, 2012 05:24 PM
The ice box does sweat in high humidity, the landspeed 750 has run an icebox for several yrs now and in the hot dry conditions occasionally gets wet but not often dripping
A spray on insulation seems to stop the problem from what i have seen on other bikes.
nearly room for 2 of those if you can get 1 in,
fairly sure you could do a less radical surgery and remove the centre between the access plates , sort of considering that myself
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1badzx12r
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posted March 11, 2012 05:30 PM
quote:
fairly sure you could do a less radical surgery and remove the centre between the access plates ,
yeah thats the only cutting i will do also if i need to .. i'm trying to fit the intercooler to the bike ..not the bike to the intercooler
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Oz Booster
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posted March 11, 2012 05:40 PM
LOL full understand that
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