Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 31, 2011 01:15 PM
Almost forgot. Here is how I found it. I was working on the bike and looked down through the frame to see a huge gap between the frame and swingarm. I used a feeler gauge to check it and found out real quick why I was having to fight the bike going right. I put the swingarm on so no one to blame but me. here is a pic of how it looked when I found it.
  
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LOCK 909
Novice Class
Posts: 90
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posted December 31, 2011 05:18 PM
Maybe fill the torn out one's with EPOXY, retap, or mig them in retap!
Heli coil $$$$
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LOCK 909
Novice Class
Posts: 90
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posted December 31, 2011 05:25 PM
Maybe fill the torn out one's with EPOXY, retap, or mig them in retap!
Heli coil $$$$
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 31, 2011 06:02 PM
I think they will clean up. I got my hands on a set of large taps. I will give it a shot. It looks like only the last few are bad.
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kawanator
Novice Class
Posts: 54
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posted January 01, 2012 01:09 AM
Awesome thread Big, can't wait to see what happens next.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 01, 2012 10:20 AM
Thanks, The tap worked and I was able to clean the threads in the frame, I had another piviot axle from a newer bike so I used it instead of the old one. I shimmed the swingarm as tight as I could get it and still work it between the frame. tightend everything up and it looked great. The bike should go striat as an arrow I hope. Now I moved on to the faring problem. My china farings were cut for a Turbo and dump pipe exhaust on one side and a big airfilter on the other. Here is what I have to start with.
right.. no room for sidewinder.
So I decided to cut them off along the bottom of the red.
left side.
After a few more trimings of the red to get a better look I am going with this for now. I wanted to keep the red at the bottom but I could cut them off on the line above and leave it black? It's not a show bike and at around 14:1 Comp I don't know how much street duty it will see. here is a pic after I got through cutting. I guess I will go with this for now.
right side, left matches. It's not bolted up yet and I will have to make a brace for the front to keep them together and no be blown off the bike.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 01, 2012 10:37 AM
Question?? Which is better volume or pressure? Here is what I got This aftermarket pressure relief valve makes 125 PSI of oilpressure at high RPM.
The stock one makes about 72 PSI at high rpm. When I threw in a high volume oilpump gear the bike if not up to operating tempture and I mean hot would blow the seal on the oilfilter if you blipped the throttle. sometimes in the burnout box it would blow the filter off of the bike. Now I took the gear back off and ran the HP relief valve. The stock oiling systems are pretty good on these bikes. I wonder if I should use the HP or the stock PR valve? With the 2" inch pan it holds more oil. Well I have to make a decision because as soon as I get my oilpan tapped and plugged I need to put it back together. And as a side note the bearings that came out of the other rods were not as good as I have seen from motors with way more passes that have had the stock oilsystem. any suggestions, opionions? On the 06 GSXR1000 I had Carpenter told me to keep the oiling system stock. any input on this would be helpful.
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kawa74
Expert Class
Posts: 226
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posted January 01, 2012 11:50 AM
blow the seal on the oilfilter if you blipped the throttle. sometimes in the burnout box it would blow the filter off of the bike.
I believe you answered your own Question,, what blew the seal and filter?? To much Pressure .
Bearings not looking as good ? Blow Oil seal or Filter OFF, you lose all pressure, only thing between crank and bearing is a film of Pressurized oil ,.001 thick, @ 6,000 rpm , crank rotates 100 times a second, that is a rotation .01 every second.!! If you could react in 3 seconds,( 300 rotations) , to kill engine to a dead stop, that is 150 power strokes without pressurized oil between bearing and crank. Very fortunate not to lose more
What Carpenter said, he been there , done that
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"I have never met a man so Ignorant that I coun't Learn from him"..."Galileo"
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 01, 2012 12:44 PM
Yes with the gear and HP relief valve it had too much pressure unless the motor was completely hot. I removed the gear and ran it with just the HP relief valve and it would not blow the seal anymore. I guess what I am asking is would you run it with the higher pressure and not the higger volume that the gear provided? It also had an extended rev limit of 12K RPM with the turbo. now it is back to stock.
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kawa74
Expert Class
Posts: 226
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posted January 01, 2012 03:15 PM
The hp relief valve makes the PUMP work harder, ( robs power) and heats the oil, 70 to 80 lbs @ max rpm should be suficient. The bearings leak oil, the higher the pressure the more leakage. Being a fresh motor with tight clearances , stock pressure should be ok. Whatever Carpenter says,do it .
if this is a race only bike ,you can restrict oil flow (about 1/2) to the tranny, it is rollers and they can live on less, and splash . . This will force more oil to bearings.
What you might consider is dropping the oil PICKUP down to within 1/8 * of bottom of that DEEP pan, might build some baffling around pickup, if not that deep pan is just carrying extra oil
All the OIL in the pan gets thrown to the back of pan by the G FORCES when leaving the line , Running Away from Pickup, the oil piles up in the back and trys to CLIMB the back wall, reason for BAFFLEs
extended revs don't matter, if you oil pickup is uncovered and sucks air for 1 second @ 10,000 , bearings will be gone, try some Lucas oil Additive for MC , will help protect
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"I have never met a man so Ignorant that I coun't Learn from him"..."Galileo"
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted January 01, 2012 03:17 PM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 1 Jan 2012 23:18
1635 Busa's, over 250 hp, have been run in LSR for miles, without issue...on stock oiling. Ask Steve Knecum. 
Shane
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 01, 2012 05:17 PM
OK guys stock oil system it is. The pan came with a swivle pickup that rotates to the back of the pan with the oil under hard launches. rotates back when you hit the brakes. I have looked at the baffles but will run it like it is.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 16, 2012 08:03 AM
Edited By: Big_T112 on 16 Jan 2012 16:06
OK been a few weeks since I was able to work on the bike. We have been swamped with overtime. The plant is shutdown today for MLK day and i put the last few things on the bike. Filled it with all the fluids, fully charged battery and gave it a try. At 14:1 comp. one stock battery will not turn it over fast enough to crank it. I have the Schnitz 24 volt harness but did not wire it in yet. It will chrage both batteries and has a box to mount the small battery in the side of the tail section. So as a temp. I wired the 24 volt system up (thanks KZscott) to give it the extra juice. I have got to let the small battery charge for a few then it's time to fire it off for the first time. Here is a pic of the crude wiring for now just to start it. to wire 24 volts is pretty simple. Take the wire off of the starter, attach it to the negative post of the second battery. Then take a wire and run it from the positive side of the second battery to the starter. very simple. (EDIT) for those with a keen eye. yes the charger is hooked up backwards on the battery in the pic.) now it's charging. need about 2 hours before I start it.
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gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
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posted January 16, 2012 09:08 AM
Nice, good luck today!
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 16, 2012 02:46 PM
No go on the ccranking. It has no code and will hit but not fire off. My guess is that I have one of the cams a tooth off. And I called myself double checking everything. Guess I will have to take the valve cover off and recheck it. That sucks!
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 16, 2012 05:07 PM
Well I took it off and for some reason my dumb ass forgot to tighten the bolts for the slotted sprockets on the cams. So I found the problem. Well mayve next weekend
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 17, 2012 08:15 AM
OK since I was starting nights I stayed up last night resetting the cams which was a pain in the ass. I had to tilt the motor forward out of the frame so I could see the cams and put them back to where I had set them. lucky for me I had marked them. Good news is if you take the megaphone off of the sidewinder it will tilt forward with the engine. But I did have to drain the radiator and remove it. Once it was all put back together It fired right off and I am doing some heat cycles on it now. It is so crisp. Once I get some heat cycles It will be time to take it to the dyno for some tunning. I loaded a generic map for now. pics to follw.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 17, 2012 11:18 AM
Edited By: Big_T112 on 17 Jan 2012 19:22
A quick trip through the gears and it is finished except for the tunning. I have it set at 65" inches/ 17/43 gearing. Going to spray 80 on it. 3 heat cycles and I want to put a few road miles on it and change the break in oil. running it on Av gas and 2 cycle premix for now. I have not got on it just a few short blips of the throttle. feels really strong though. Here is how it will look.(except I plan on washing it.) it was a fun off seaon build.
here it is now
and here it is when I bought it at the auction a year ago.
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01smokes
Needs a job
Posts: 2243
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posted January 17, 2012 03:40 PM
Bike looks damn good! Are you gonna make it any longer you think??
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 17, 2012 08:54 PM
Yes, I want to get a long C/M arm for it. At least 70 inches. I ordered mirrior block offs for it. I rode it again before I left work. Rolled on it kinda hard in fourth. when it started pulling good it was spinning the tire on the street. As soon as I hook the dual hub up I am going to try and get it tuned.
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01smokes
Needs a job
Posts: 2243
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posted January 17, 2012 10:33 PM
quote:
Yes, I want to get a long C/M arm for it. At least 70 inches. I ordered mirrior block offs for it. I rode it again before I left work. Rolled on it kinda hard in fourth. when it started pulling good it was spinning the tire on the street. As soon as I hook the dual hub up I am going to try and get it tuned.
Hell ya sounds good! What kinda numbers are you expiating to run on this one?
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 18, 2012 09:04 AM
I really don't know? Just going to have to feel it out and see what numbers it puts down on the dyno, Remember it's still a 12 year old first gen bike. We will see.
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted January 18, 2012 02:12 PM
should be like 220hp with that kit, can't wait to see some passes from that thing
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01smokes
Needs a job
Posts: 2243
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posted January 18, 2012 07:01 PM
quote:
I really don't know? Just going to have to feel it out and see what numbers it puts down on the dyno, Remember it's still a 12 year old first gen bike. We will see.
Hahaha ya just a 12 year old gen1 I bet this thing gets close to 230hp on motor
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted January 18, 2012 09:42 PM
Big T_112,
nice thread, you are getting after it 
Put a lil money in a gen 1 Busa motor and you'll get NA 220hp with ease.
Put a lil more money in it and you'll get LOT more hp.
I'm loving both my 7 year old gen 1's.
Karl
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