Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 06, 2011 08:17 AM
Project 1534cc is about to start
As I turn the Junkyard Busa into a 1534cc Nitrous bike the build is about ready to kick off. I am currently waiting on 2 things before I will have everything to put the complete motor back together and take it to have it tuned. I ordered all new ARP rod bolts for my rods. And after reading and doing some research I am getting a Ward Performance head. I don't think I will get one back before Christmas though. But from what I have read and talking with people that have used them they do a really good Hayabusa head. Basically it's the same bottom end from the turbo bike, but with a APE +5mm crank and a 1429cc 13.5.1 Comp. forged piston kit making it a 1534cc motor. Got a nice set of web cams to go with it. Here in Alabama the plant I work at is expanding, 5 models will be running through one plant. We are building a complete new Body Shop for the C-class to be built in. (Where I am) It will be run on 3 shifts, They anouced the new MLC coupe that will be built at our plant. The 3rd gen. on the ML and GL are launching now. We are covered up with more overtime than you can work. But during the thanksgiving and Christmas Holidays I will be taking some long vacations and hope to get the bike put back together. We are already scheduled to work 10-12 hours a day, 6 days a week for the first 1/4 of next year. So I hope I get some track time after it is put together. meanwhile it sits in part boxes.
engine in a box
bike frame
  
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 06, 2011 08:21 AM
Oh yea, I went with a Murray Sidewinder. I got it in and it looks pretty good. The collector is small compared to some of the other brands. I will give it a try and see what it does.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 06, 2011 08:28 AM
One other thing selling the turbo kit and JE turbo pistons and block paid for the headwork and 1429cc piston kit which is keeping my cost of the completed bike under my set budget of $5500. I sold the chrome wheels to pay for the Murray sidewinder.(Chromed 3 spoke stock Busa wheels crack after being chromed when you put power to them) I have two extra sets of wheels. one silver and one black. I am looking for 220 H.P. on motor for under $5500 is my goal. I already have a wet and a dry kit so no expense there.
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted November 06, 2011 12:37 PM
very nice man looks like it gonna be fun! 
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 07, 2011 01:16 PM
Yea it will be. I enjoy the building more than the riding.
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Darkforce
Novice Class
06 Tomahawk Cruise Missile
Posts: 51
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posted November 07, 2011 03:15 PM
is that 1534 streetable?
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BLK ICE
Pro
we'll leave the light on for u
Posts: 1709
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posted November 07, 2011 04:30 PM
Big_T112,
keep us posted.
good luck on your build.
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Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, Nitrous Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
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Repersenting: BLACK ICE PERFORMANCE and NO QUARTER MOTORSPORTS
Nitrous and Tires Sponsored by: Custom Specialties Cycles
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 07, 2011 09:09 PM
It is but not like an everyday work ride. It takes a 24 volt starter system which is a two battery operation. They sell a kit for the Busa so it will charge bith batteries. I have a pretty aggressive set of web cams for it plus it will have a Murray sidewinder with no baffle. But I am in Alabama so as long as I dont get on it I should be ok. once I get the engine put together I will know more. I'll keep you posted.
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted November 07, 2011 09:12 PM
quote:
Yea it will be. I enjoy the building more than the riding.
lol i agree.. i like to bolt stuff on more than anything
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 08, 2011 01:42 PM
Yea, something about putting your own engine together just feels good. If it breaks down it's my fault 
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 22, 2011 05:42 PM
OK I got the Marine +5mm stroke Crank, New main and rod bearings from Babbitt's (box) Cometic spacer plate for increased stroke. 1429cc 13.5:1 forged pistons, High pressure relief valve, Got the web cams out. Stillhave not got the head back but I will put the motor together this Holiday weekend (except for the head.
Box O Parts
These ARP HD replacement rod bolts are 220K tensile strength. A must have for any performance motor
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Darkforce
Novice Class
06 Tomahawk Cruise Missile
Posts: 51
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posted November 22, 2011 05:57 PM
quote:
I am in Alabama
what part of Al r u in?
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 22, 2011 06:33 PM
Tuscaloosa/Northport
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted November 28, 2011 12:41 PM
OK, so he head I sent off will not be back untill late Feb. I am told so I got my Carpenter head out and started cleaning it up. This head made 197 RWHP with two intake cams and stock bore on a Gen 1 Busa.
one of the ports (intake)
Lapping the valves in and put the head back together. What a pain with the valve keepers.
1430cc 13.5:1 piston kit
I hope to have the motor complete by next weekend. Got to cut the front forks and get the bike as low as I can. motor build pics coming soon
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 30, 2011 04:10 PM
OK some updates on the bike. I went ahead and built the motor over the holidays. never assume that a stroked reworked crank is going to go by the numbers that are put on it. On one of the journals it called for a brown bearing but after 3 times with plastiguge it was just too close so I had to use a black bearing. In farness it was on the edge but i went ahead and used a black bearing to get the clearance I wanted. New ARP 220 psi rod bolts used. Basically it was the same turbo bottom end as far as trans and clutch went. The piston kit is 13.5:1. the cylinder and head had benn surfaced so I had to add a .005 shim to the stroker plate to get my piston to valve clearance. Pro Mod APE HD cylinder studs and nuts went back on. Switching to the web cams I had several valves that had to be adjusted. It is a Carpenter head so I went ahead and checked them all and made the shim changes it needed. With the motor fully assy. it was time to put it in. I made my two younger girls help.
Back in the frame.
After all the wiring was hooked up I removed the billet 2" inch oilpan and installed the Murray sidewinder. the pic looks like the pipe is hanging way out. It's the angle and the oilpan is off. These pipes work really well.
Here is a pic with the collector on. these pipes have a very small diameter collector. But they make good power for the money. It was used and in good shape.
Well I ran in to a few problems along the way. There is a hole in my Billet oilpan where the drain for the turbo went. I will have to tap it and put a drain plug in it.
Also I had to dig out the ram airtubes and put them back on. I had to dig out a set of stock TB's. I don't have a fuel pump or the 24 volt starting sytem hooked up yet. Also I had to dig deep and come up with an airbox. I didn't need one with the Turbo plenum. So here is two airboxes. And you thought the ZX-14 was the only bike restricted? On the airbox on the left with the filter removed you can see the flap in the box. It is vaccum controlled and does not fully open till after 6K RPM. anything under that no ram air and very little air at all. On the right you can see where I cut all that crap out. Free HP. I also like to use all four short stacks. Here is a pic of the stok and modded box. I still need to clean it up some.
OK still need a few things before I crank it. more to come.
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted December 30, 2011 05:47 PM
How come this is in the zx14 section?
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Gemini Motorcycles
Topping out everything from Ninja 250s to nitrous ZX-14s.
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 30, 2011 05:55 PM
Cause it's winter and thought I might share the build. It's just a low budget, do it yourself bike and I currently sold my last ZX-14. thought some might enjoy. OK I will stop.
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted December 30, 2011 06:02 PM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 31 Dec 2011 02:04
quote:
Cause it's winter and thought I might share the build. It's just a low budget, do it yourself bike and I currently sold my last ZX-14. thought some might enjoy. OK I will stop.
I enjoy reading your builds. There is always something to learn, regardless of the platform. Honestly, if you post this in the Busa section then nobody will see it, or benefit.
Plus, I know you will eventually end up with another Kaw. 
Shane
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted December 30, 2011 06:06 PM
quote:
quote:
Cause it's winter and thought I might share the build. It's just a low budget, do it yourself bike and I currently sold my last ZX-14. thought some might enjoy. OK I will stop.
I enjoy reading your builds. There is always something to learn, regardless of the platform. Honestly, if you post this in the Busa section then nobody will see it, or benefit.
Plus, I know you will eventually end up with another Kaw.
Shane
i agree, we have enough 2012 14r threads this actually interesting please keep on going
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 30, 2011 06:44 PM
Edited By: Big_T112 on 31 Dec 2011 02:51
Will do, let me know if it gets boring. and I will have one of those 14R's ! I will try and get it up and running so it can be tuned. Still have the old PC3 and dual hub. No clue as to what to expect on rear wheel HP. This same Carpenter head with a thin head gasket and two intake cams on a stock motor made 197 at Steadmans dyno.
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oldkawboy
Needs a job
Posts: 2125
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posted December 30, 2011 07:55 PM
I enjoy reading about your projects Big, don't stop writing about them.
You've always got something going on and I wonder sometimes if you ever sleep!
Man that Murray does seem small for that big of a motor.
Keep us posted,
Dan
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 30, 2011 09:06 PM
Yea. It does look small. You see a lot of them on the grudge bikes. there is no baffle so we will see what it does on the Dyno. I get to catch up on my sleep when I am on night shift.
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justoyz2
Zone Head
Justoyz Racing
Posts: 858
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posted December 30, 2011 09:22 PM
keep up the good work, you are right, it's good putting your own engines and building your bike
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2012 zx14R-blue,2012 zx14R-black, 2014 zx14Trbo, 2011 zx10R, 2007 zx10 Turbo.....
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LOCK 909
Novice Class
Posts: 90
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posted December 31, 2011 05:22 AM
This is the best ,keep it up better reading than what most people post here,at least your doing it fast , with photo's fun to read,and look at !!
Not the boring banter from wanta be mechanic's!!
Good info thanks!!
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted December 31, 2011 12:30 PM
OK hit a pretty big snag this morning. First a little background. When you add an aftermarket swingarm you should always check to make sure the piviot is shimmed properly. On this bike the shims are in the end caps that go on the swingarm before you slide it up to put the piviot axle through. Here is a pic of the end cap and I have one of the shims removed so you can see how thin some are. these caps then go on the swingarm and you slide it up between the frame.
End of arm after shims installed in end caps. they are on both sides so don't throw your wheel spacing off.
I had noticed last year that the bike under power going down the track or out on the street pulled to the right. the more power the worse it got. Some people will often offset the tire with the axle adjusters. (move the front of the tire to the right) to comensate for the bike trying to go right. sound confusing? well what you end of with is a bike when sitting in the pits looks like the tire is out of line from behind. The idea is that with the front of the tire pointing to the right under power it wants the bike to go left effectivly making the bike go strait. But where is the real problem? In my case my arm is a no top box GSXR600 arm that has been extended and a bottom brace added. So this morning I took it loose and saw that I had not added the right amount of shim. The piviot axle threads in the frame and butts up to the swinarm on the inside taking out the last tiny bit of slack. Then a nut is on the other end to secure it from coming loose. After shimming the arm I find it best for you to have to lightly force the arm in between the frame. Not beat it in but work it untill it lines up. the tighter the better. But when I tried to install the piviot axle back in it stopped gaulding in the aluminum threads of the frame. I had to really put some ass on the socket to get it back out. after it came out you could see the aluminum shavings at the base of the threads.
a look in the frame with a flashlight showed what I was not hoping to see. The treads looked horrible. I will have to come up with a big tap to try and clean the treads back up and hope it fixes it.
frame
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