Rook
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posted November 01, 2011 10:11 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 2 Nov 2011 06:31
2 ?? Crankcase Sensor Cover
The factory installation of my Crankcase Sensor Cover has a silicone like engine sealant on the inside edge and the rubber gasket. I have a tube of Silicone engine sealant recommended in SM. How do I prep the surface to reinstall the cover with the sealant applied.
Also, how is the sealant applied? Do I let it dry a bit or do I bolt the cover down immediately after the sealant is applied?
The SM states that (1) bolt on the sensor cover is to have nonpermanent thread locking agent applied. I assume the one bolt they are talking about is the top one. It has less threads than the other bolts because the hole does not drill into a solid piece of engine case like the other sensor cover bolts. As the pic shows, the bolt hole goes right into the cam chain housing.
  
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kaw now
Expert Class
Posts: 446
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posted November 01, 2011 10:37 PM
For sealant prep no oil residue so I use brakekleen on parts and seals or rubber plugs. Use as little of RTV as possible cause if breaks off it can clog oil passages and ruin engine. Maybe not in this case but a thin film is all generally needed.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 02, 2011 09:43 AM
Thanks, kaw now. I think I will try running it without any sealant. It has a gasket and a few months back I ran the motor w/o even torqueing the cover bolts. saw no leak. Good info if/when I need to apply sealant.
If I should decide to use it, is the sealant supposed to be allowed to dry in the air a bit to tack up before joining the parts? Or does it need to be 100% dry?
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SteddyTeddy
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Posts: 1664
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posted November 02, 2011 10:53 AM
Just use a little blue loctite on that one bolt. It will keep oil from weeping up the threads. Myself I would only use a little RTV where the rubber grommet is for the pickup. Don't let it dry 100%.
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Audioboyz
Expert Class
Posts: 265
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posted November 02, 2011 11:22 AM
I've had mine off a few times.Wiped it down with a rag and put a thin coating of blue goo on it.Didn't let it dry.Wiped down the otside when done.Never leaked.
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Rook
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Posts: 1125
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posted November 02, 2011 03:34 PM
LOL thanks for responses. If all else fails read the instructions LOL!! My kawasakibond came with directions in the box. Says wait 90 minutes on average to dry to a tack-free surface. 15-20 hours to dry to a solid rubbery substance. Depends on humidity,temp and thickness of application, of course.
They don't really say if you should put the parts together before 90 minutes or after 15 hours but I think right after 90 minutes is what is implied as best for bond. 20 hours the stuff is not going to change at all and will have reached max bond.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 03, 2011 12:44 AM
Edited By: Rook on 3 Nov 2011 08:46
Looking at the inside of the cover, I see the sealant was applied only in 3 places. on each side over the areas where the two halves of engine case join (forming the TDC match up line for the timing rotor) and also over the part of the sensor that passes through the the engine case wall. I have marked these areas in blue
The red dot marks the hole where the thread lock is recommended. I think they used a tiny bit of silicone sealant on those threads during factory assembly instead.
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kaw now
Expert Class
Posts: 446
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posted November 03, 2011 10:36 AM
I had mine off once can't remember what I did if anything but it doesn't leak.
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