zx6reaker
Expert Class
D&D's, Frame sliders, pcIII
Posts: 147
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posted August 07, 2011 08:26 AM
front tire hard to spin
Last night while I was riding I heard a light ticking sound coming from my front tire area. it sped up and slowed down with the speed of the tire. I didn't notice anything feeling any different though. The brakes felt normal also. So when I got home I put the bike on stands and tried to spin the front tire...it was very hard to turn. The longest free spin I could get out of it is about half a revolution. I did just change my tires. I double checked torques but everything looks fine. There is a definate rubbing sound coming from the calipers. I am afraid I may have warped rotors. What else can I check. I don't know the best way to check the bearings.
TIA.
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Quarter Pounder
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posted August 07, 2011 01:00 PM
pull the calipers and try to spin again...need to separate brake problem from bearing problem.
Since you just changed tires...you may have missed a spacer when reassembling it.
Pull calipers...if still not rotating, start loosening things and keep checking to see if it free's up. if you loosen up the axle and it frees up...you know where the problem is.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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epd345
Pro
Posts: 1494
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posted August 07, 2011 01:55 PM
Make sure you didn't overtighten the front wheel
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2012 ZX14, Ceramic Coated Brock's CT Meg, PCV, throttlemeister
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zx12mark
Pro
Posts: 1654
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posted August 07, 2011 03:12 PM
remember the procedure on remounting the front wheel.look in your service manual.there was an addendum to this installation....
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zx6reaker
Expert Class
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Posts: 147
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posted August 07, 2011 07:34 PM
So, tonight I pulled the fender and spun the tire and had the same issue. I then pulled the calipers and spun the tire and it turned freely. no noise and side to side play. I looked at the rotors as it was spinning and they appear to be perfectly streight. I even put a streight edge on them. So, now I am looking at my calipers. I don't think there is anything to back them off of the rotor after the brakes are released, so how can I tell if they are releasing enough pressure once I let go of the brake lever. as soon as I put the brakes back on. I pumped up the calipers and spun it and had the same problem. I spun the tire as hard as I could and couldn't get a full revolution from the tire.
Also, I did change brake lines to steel braided about a year ago and the fluid looks good. I bleed the crap out of them then. Would air in the line cause this? Would the type of fluid I used have caused this. (I used Castrol GTLMA Synthetic dot 4.)
Also, 90lbs ft is quite a bit of torque from a standard size 3/8 ratchet. I don't have a torque wrench but it was good and snug. I did lower it off the stands and bounce it 5 times or so and tightened the pinch bolts. Thank you for you time and help.
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GREYHOUNDMOSES
Expert Class
Posts: 324
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posted August 08, 2011 11:20 AM
I had the same problem when I changed brake pads recently.
No big deal. It's just one of the anti-chatter shims isn't seated properly and sits too deep in the caliper. This lets it just catch the "waves" on the outside of the disc.
It's difficult to spot if you don't know what to look for but if you can rest a finger on each shim just below each of the pad pins you should feel which one is rubbing when you turn the wheel. Remove the pad pin and shim and when you replace them make sure the end of the clip sits on the raised pimple of the pad not in the valley between the pimple and the pad pin. You may have to gently bend the clip back into shape.
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zx6reaker
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Posts: 147
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posted August 10, 2011 10:53 PM
Ok, I don't know what's going on. but I don't hear the noise anymore after taking the brakes off and remounting them. but the resistance is still there. Could someone put there bike on a stand and see how much they can free spin there front tire? I am just thinking that it has to much friction. I don't know how to tell if my calipers are releasing enough.
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BobC
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posted August 10, 2011 11:37 PM
 Edited By: BobC on 11 Aug 2011 07:45
Assuming you've put the wheel back right and it's not misaligned and the pads are installed correctly:
Take the calipers off again and remove the pads, then try gently pumping the brake lever, just a little, enough to push the pistons out a tiny bit. Are they clean and can you push them back by hand? if not they might just be sticking.
Push the pistons back in, reinstall the pads and mount the calipers back on the fork legs, don't touch the brake lever yet, the wheel should spin freely if nothing is misaligned. Now operate the brake lever to pump the pistons out and back in contact with the disc, if the wheel is stiff to rotate afterwards then the pistons are sticking and you possibly need to get a brake seal kit.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted August 11, 2011 09:42 AM
I just gave my front wheel a healthy spin. It got 3 turns before it stopped.
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14
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zx6reaker
Expert Class
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Posts: 147
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posted August 11, 2011 04:33 PM
Thanks guys. This helps a ton. I have a strong feeling that the brakes aren't releasing enough. I will get a rebuild kit. (if anyone has a good place to get one let me know.) And post the results.
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted August 11, 2011 08:26 PM
i would flush and bleed the brakes first,
Push the pistons out as far as you can with out removing them, then clean them with sos pad, or brillo pad, and brake cleaner.
The brakes will not retract properly if there is air in the brake fluid, or if the brake fluid has absorbed allot of water over time, the fluid will expand when hot, and will not retract the pads and pistons
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BobC
Pro
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posted August 12, 2011 12:55 AM
Edited By: BobC on 12 Aug 2011 11:01
While we're on the subject of binding brakes can I offer a word of caution, this happened to a member of our 200mph club:
He was taking part in a standing mile event on his Hayabusa, at some point during his run he felt the bike begin to slow and then the front wheel suddenly locked up and it threw him off. When the safety crew got to him he explained that the front had locked, he fortunately got away with just a broken wrist, anyway they picked up his damaged bike and found the wheel was rotating freely.
What had happened, far as we know, was that the brake was binding a little and the friction had heated it up as his speed increased. This heat had transferred to his brake fluid. Being old fluid, probably with some air and water in it, it had boiled increasing the brake line pressure and jamming the brakes on. By the time they picked up the bike it had cooled and the wheel was free again.
Keep on top of the brake maintenance guys, there's a reason why they advise periodically replacing the brake fluid and why they sell seal kits, it can bite if you don't.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 12, 2011 08:13 AM
Damn
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zx6reaker
Expert Class
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Posts: 147
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posted August 13, 2011 01:10 PM
Well guys, I just pulled my calipers and brakes and cleaned them. They didn't seem too dirty but once I put every thing back together I could get about 2.5 turns now.I feel much better about it now. Thanks for all your help. Also I replaced the fluids in the brakes and clutch
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Loud pipes and bright lights save lives.
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Quarter Pounder
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with Cheese
Posts: 1069
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posted August 14, 2011 05:06 AM
awe right! Glad you got it sorted.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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