3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 24, 2011 07:10 PM
Stuck bolt Best option?
I have been removing bolt from my bike to either polish or replace with chrome bolts. I have got to the sub frame bolts in the picture below, the one on the bottom it extreamly tight, I used a 3/8 drive Hex bit to try to remove it, but it twisted the bit and started to round the bolt out.
Im looking at my options.. Any help would be great.
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
  
|
GREYHOUNDMOSES
Expert Class
Posts: 324
|
posted May 24, 2011 10:03 PM
I've just had the same thing last weekend.
On my bike all four were tight but the top two caused the problems.
When I finally got them out it appeared the thread-lock had gone "crusty". Both bolts came loose then
tightened up after about two full turns and stripped, leaving me with the bolts stuck half out!
I finally got them out by hammering in an oversize Torx bit and used a ratchet on that. It worked but only
after a LOT of swearing!
I believe heating threadlock helps but the location in the subframe makes that difficult.
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 24, 2011 10:13 PM
Glad to hear im not the only one to do this, I will keep your route in mind. I still have quite abit of hex left in that bolt, I was thinking of buying a impact driver to try first, what do you think?
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
GREYHOUNDMOSES
Expert Class
Posts: 324
|
posted May 24, 2011 10:28 PM
 Edited By: GREYHOUNDMOSES on 25 May 2011 06:30
I tried that before I found the threadlock! It just damaged the head more. The threadlock means that
the bolts stay difficult ALL the way out. Best using the Torx before the hole is damaged further. Line up the splines with the corners of the hex and hammer it well home.
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 24, 2011 10:37 PM
I see, Will do then!
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
Quarter Pounder
Pro
with Cheese
Posts: 1069
|
posted May 25, 2011 04:51 AM
Heat is your friend in getting the locktite to let go. Just use a large soldering iron to heat the bolt for a couple minutes and then use the methods above and it'll be out no problem.
If you can get to the back side of the bolt, heat that end since that is the end with the locktite.
____________
SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
|
LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
|
posted May 25, 2011 06:06 AM
quote:
Heat is your friend in getting the locktite to let go. Just use a large soldering iron to heat the bolt for a couple minutes and then use the methods above and it'll be out no problem.
If you can get to the back side of the bolt, heat that end since that is the end with the locktite.
+ 1
|
GREYHOUNDMOSES
Expert Class
Posts: 324
|
posted May 25, 2011 12:40 PM
quote:
Just use a large soldering iron to heat the bolt for a couple minutes and then use the methods above and it'll be out no problem.
Wish I'd thought of that!
I couldn't figure a way of heating the bolt without harming the sub-frame.
By the way, I used a TX40 socket bit. With the heat, this should work a treat.
|
LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
|
posted May 25, 2011 01:58 PM
I purchased a MM 3/8 drive allen head set and uesd the heat gun. Those botls backet right out. It took more then several minutes with the soldering gun on the head of the bolt.
|
Oz Booster
Expert Class
Posts: 230
|
posted May 25, 2011 02:34 PM
If the head is already damaged use a hammer and punch to impact the bolt and help the initial release, will need an anvil of some sort Like another hammer or lump of steel on the back (not on the thread)
Great idea that soldering iron, always used a propane torch which limited where i could use it.
also another product out there called Freeze which is a lubricant mixed with something like propane , handy for releasing stuck bolts that do not have locktight..
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 25, 2011 03:46 PM
Got 3 out with using a big soldering iron, last one on the left lower side by the chain would not budge, picked up a bold extractor from fastenall, that was a bad idea, broke off inside the bolt. My options look kinda crappy at this point.
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 25, 2011 04:36 PM
Gonna call around and see who has an EDM machine, and if it could be used to remove this bolt.
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
|
posted May 25, 2011 04:47 PM
Edited By: LAB3 on 26 May 2011 00:49
Now the hard part.replace the other bolts just finger tight. You need a good sharp metal chisel(heat treated) and start at about 11 oclock on the shoulder of the bolt and start of easy(small ball peen hammer) and start and "V" cut into the had of the bolt. (you may have to grind on the head of the chisel so it is not wider the head on the bolt side) not hitting the painted casting this bolt holds on.(Hard Part) Then start hitting the chisel in a downward motion to back the bolt out.(heaver hammer) Use the HOT iron on the bolt for 10 minutes or so (first) and make sure the orange loctite is warm( I want the inside threads warm too). Next time before you use and risking a break off of a VERY hard bolt extractor.... just use 5 or 6 different(smaller) twist drills that end up a little smaller the Minor Dia. of the treaded part of the bolt so you don't hurt the threads of the casting or what ever.. If You had the part off with a harden bit groken a Tool&Die Mold Shop with a E.D.M. machine will burn a hole thru the center of the bolt to releave outward pressure on threads and then use a scrw/bolt extractor... only after the center of any threaded shank that is stuck has been "Drill Reamed" out use a extractor..(if you can) The bolt extractor is usually way harder then even Cobalt or even Carbide drill bits. You may have to spend hours with dremmel tool and grind off the shoulder of the bolt..........way too much work with out correct bits for rotary tool/dremel etc. I hope I have explained myself. Ok if not PM and I will call you.
EDIT most Mold Shops that do have EDM machines have small tables that have fluid tight boxs as all this is done emerged in special fluid.
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted May 25, 2011 05:42 PM
quote:
Now the hard part.replace the other bolts just finger tight. You need a good sharp metal chisel(heat treated) and start at about 11 oclock on the shoulder of the bolt and start of easy(small ball peen hammer) and start and "V" cut into the had of the bolt. (you may have to grind on the head of the chisel so it is not wider the head on the bolt side) not hitting the painted casting this bolt holds on.(Hard Part) Then start hitting the chisel in a downward motion to back the bolt out.(heaver hammer) Use the HOT iron on the bolt for 10 minutes or so (first) and make sure the orange loctite is warm( I want the inside threads warm too). Next time before you use and risking a break off of a VERY hard bolt extractor.... just use 5 or 6 different(smaller) twist drills that end up a little smaller the Minor Dia. of the treaded part of the bolt so you don't hurt the threads of the casting or what ever.. If You had the part off with a harden bit groken a Tool&Die Mold Shop with a E.D.M. machine will burn a hole thru the center of the bolt to releave outward pressure on threads and then use a scrw/bolt extractor... only after the center of any threaded shank that is stuck has been "Drill Reamed" out use a extractor..(if you can) The bolt extractor is usually way harder then even Cobalt or even Carbide drill bits. You may have to spend hours with dremmel tool and grind off the shoulder of the bolt..........way too much work with out correct bits for rotary tool/dremel etc. I hope I have explained myself. Ok if not PM and I will call you.
EDIT most Mold Shops that do have EDM machines have small tables that have fluid tight boxs as all this is done emerged in special fluid.
Thanks for all this help LAB, Its nice to hear there is more options! I was very pissed off, and still feel like a dummy for doing this to my bike, live and learn I guess. Ill start with your way after dinner. First thing is going to be duct taping around the area to prevent damage from a slip up! Thanks again!
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
BIGZXDADDY
Expert Class
Posts: 270
|
posted May 26, 2011 06:10 AM
this doesn't help on the damaged bolt but when you have a bolt in aluminum that doesn't want to break loose tighten it until you hear or feel it move and then it will usually back out easy
____________
"never drive faster than you can see, besides it's all in the reflexes"
|
knecum
Novice Class
Posts: 54
|
posted May 28, 2011 06:41 PM
Edited By: knecum on 29 May 2011 02:44
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://ehardware2u.com/images/201104/goods_img/1721_P_1304003016562.jpg&imgrefurl=http://ehardware2u.com/goods.php%3Fid%3D1721&usg=__QxnYkJ5tFXhb54ocKj_yU1x0axI=&h=480&w=629&sz=57&hl=en&start=104&zoom=1&tbnid=ICkM5rS0A-uakM:&tbnh=143&tbnw=189&ei=0bLhTefDDorUgAeWz7TCBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dallen%2Bhead%2Bextractor%2Bremoval%2Btool%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26rlz%3D1T4SKPT_enUS406US406%26biw%3D1345%26bih%3D476%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=956&vpy=169&dur=3573&hovh=196&hovw=257&tx=57&ty=80&page=9&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:104&biw=1345&bih=476
____________
engines on a bench
|
TH1RT3EN
Zone Head
Trial And Error Control
Posts: 722
|
posted June 02, 2011 03:57 AM
Assist:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://ehardware2u.com/images/201104/goods_img/1721_P_1304003016562.jpg&imgrefurl=http://ehardware2u.com/goods.php%3Fid%3D1721&usg=__QxnYkJ5tFXhb54ocKj_yU1x0axI=&h=480&w=629&sz=57&hl=en&start=104&zoom=1&tbnid=ICkM5rS0A-uakM:&tbnh=143&tbnw=189&ei=0bLhTefDDorUgAeWz7TCBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dallen%2Bhead%2Bextractor%2Bremoval%2Btool%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26rlz%3D1T4SKPT_enUS406US406%26biw%3D1345%26bih%3D476%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=956&vpy=169&dur=3573&hovh=196&hovw=257&tx=57&ty=80&page=9&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:104&biw=1345&bih=476
Whats the outcome so far on your bolt? Any luck??
Patrick
____________
There is a fine line between Fear and Respect
When I was a kid i used to........... Wait I Still Do That!
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted June 02, 2011 07:34 AM
Edited By: 3000psi and falling on 2 Jun 2011 15:35
Here is the fix for now, A hex bolt cover set off ebay works and looks great. Our riding season is very short up here in Oak harbor WA, so i decided to hold off removing the swingarm to drillout the bolt from the back side till this winter so I dont miss out on any rides.
And the frame plug set is also on the way too
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
GREYHOUNDMOSES
Expert Class
Posts: 324
|
posted June 02, 2011 12:57 PM
Have you a link for these covers. I've replaced most of my bolts with Ti or stainless but can't find shiny bits for the heel guards. These look like they would hide the dull heads I can't replace.
|
3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
|
posted June 02, 2011 03:28 PM
I'll get the link up when I get home, the bolts should polish up like chrome though, I removed most of mine and installed them in my drill chuck, then polish them till they shine, only takes a minute..
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
|
|
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC
