Rook

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posted May 23, 2011 07:34 PM
Two problems with Vortex rearsets
First, where and how is the pressure switch for the rear brake light installed? This seems to be a totally different kind of switch than the OEM piston switch. I haven't the foggiest where this thing goes.

I have another problem with the rear brake/Vortex interface the but I would like to get the pressure switch solved first. Thanks for any ideas.
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joel787

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posted May 23, 2011 07:46 PM
last time i had them i didnt use it. the only problem i had was the hose from the cup to the cilinder getting pinched
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Rook

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posted May 23, 2011 08:48 PM
Edited By: Rook on 24 May 2011 04:51
hahaha--
Joel, you got problem #2 right on the money. Rear brake reservoir tube is squashed betwixt the Vortex heel guard and the brake line to the rear caliper. If anyone knows how to solve that, please let me know. Can I take the fitting off and turn it so the notches on mastercylinder and brake line coupling interlock? ....so that the coupling is not so close to the tube and squashing it?

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1badzx12r
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posted May 23, 2011 08:53 PM
quote: First, where and how is the pressure switch for the rear brake light installed? This seems to be a totally different kind of switch than the OEM piston switch. I haven't the foggiest where this thing goes.

I have another problem with the rear brake/Vortex interface the but I would like to get the pressure switch solved first. Thanks for any ideas.
from the looks of it
that thingy replaces the bolt in the brake like that has you filler hose pinched
i think its called a pressure switch and then plugs into the wire harness where the old pull type did
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Rook

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posted May 23, 2011 08:56 PM
The pressure switch goes through the coupling and threads into the mastercylinder, doesn't it. Have a Goodridge kevlar brake line here and the bolt threads look just like the pressure switch...............so this IS a totally different setup than the OEM piston switch that opperates the rear brake light
--anyone confirm this for me?
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Rook

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posted May 23, 2011 09:01 PM
quote:
quote: First, where and how is the pressure switch for the rear brake light installed? This seems to be a totally different kind of switch than the OEM piston switch. I haven't the foggiest where this thing goes.

I have another problem with the rear brake/Vortex interface the but I would like to get the pressure switch solved first. Thanks for any ideas.
from the looks of it
that thingy replaces the bolt in the brake like that has you filler hose pinched
i think its called a pressure switch and then plugs into the wire harness where the old pull type did
Thanks, 1bad. We were posting at the same time. I think you're right. As mentioned above, the threads and the hole look identical on the switch and the screw I have for a ZX-14 brake line.
If anyone knows for sure please chime in or else I will just try it (and that will lead to several more questions since I will be draining the whole rear brake system --I assume).
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1badzx12r
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posted May 23, 2011 09:12 PM
yeah your gonna need to bleed the back brake after install
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Quarter Pounder

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posted May 24, 2011 04:52 AM
Pressure switch that replaces the banjo bolt on your brake line. Also allows you to reroute your brake line so it isn't pinched.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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1badvespa1400cc

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posted May 24, 2011 11:27 AM
quote: hahaha--
Joel, you got problem #2 right on the money. Rear brake reservoir tube is squashed betwixt the Vortex heel guard and the brake line to the rear caliper. If anyone knows how to solve that, please let me know. Can I take the fitting off and turn it so the notches on mastercylinder and brake line coupling interlock? ....so that the coupling is not so close to the tube and squashing it?


would two stainless steel washers space it out enough?
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Quarter Pounder

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posted May 24, 2011 12:14 PM
it could, but you could also just cut off the nib that indexes that hose and move it inboard enough to not pinch.
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SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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Rook

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posted May 24, 2011 01:25 PM
Edited By: Rook on 24 May 2011 21:26
would two stainless steel washers space it out enough?
it could, but you could also just cut off the nib that indexes that hose and move it inboard enough to not pinch.
OR--
Can I take the fitting off and turn it so the nib on the brake line coupling is between the two nibs on mastercylinder?
Or, if I install the Goodridge line, that has no nib on the fitting,,,,can I turn the fitting so that it does not interfere with the filler hose?...Or is there a certain position that the fitting must be tightened down onto the master cylinder?
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1badzx12r
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posted May 24, 2011 01:55 PM
quote: Or, if I install the Goodridge line, that has no nib on the fitting,,,,can I turn the fitting so that it does not interfere with the filler hose?...Or is there a certain position that the fitting must be tightened down onto the master cylinder?
you can turn that hose any way you want as long as it don't rub the rear tire ..
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Rook

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posted May 24, 2011 04:19 PM
Very well, 1bad. Thanks to you and everyone for explanations. Think I probably can figure it out from here. My only concern is bleeding after induction of air to brake system. I have bled brakes and clutch a few times but never allowed the fluid to go below the bottom of the reservoir .
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Romans

Expert Class
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posted May 24, 2011 04:26 PM
Track Day is Wednesday Rook, Got to Hurry. Get her done lol
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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Rook

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posted May 24, 2011 07:11 PM
ha two weeks from now, Wednesday. I have tomorrow Wednesday and that might be all I need.
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joel787

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posted May 24, 2011 07:14 PM
hey rook, it wasnt with the 14 that had the rear sets but what i did was to put the hose behind the the break line. it was a lil bent but nothing serious and never gave problems so idk.
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Rook

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posted May 24, 2011 08:22 PM
That would work but since That entails draining the system and bleeding, I might as well just install the new line while I'm at it. Good chance I will run the line in front of the filler tube.
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Rook

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posted May 25, 2011 10:16 AM
Looking at Service Manual for brake line removal, they say nothing about draining the brake fluid. They just say to " temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum."
It seems to me if a banjo bolt is removed and the fitting is taken off, fluid is going to immediately drain out of that hose and/or the caliper/master cylinder/fluid reservoir.
I am correct in assuming that it is best to use the bleed valves to pump AS MUCH fluid out of the system as possible before removing a brake line or any part that contains fluid........RIGHT?
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