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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: best oil for my zx14 NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
joeyzutes


Parking Attendant
Posts: 3
posted May 23, 2011 08:59 AM        
best oil for my zx14

ran 0-40 for a few weeks, until # 3 rod didnt agree with it. what oil are you guys using for racing a stock zx14? im thinking about going back to 10-40 amsoil.

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1badzx12r


Needs a life
Posts: 8321
posted May 23, 2011 09:05 AM        Edited By: 1badzx12r on 23 May 2011 17:06
ROTELLA T 13.00 a gallon.. never lost a rod .. 1000's of passes
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3000psi and falling


Zone Head
Posts: 848
posted May 23, 2011 09:13 AM        
Ive been using 20-30 and just switched to 5-20 both mobil one car oil's 20K+ miles of beating the crap out of it.
____________
08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.

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06redzx14


Pro
Posts: 1022
posted May 23, 2011 09:16 AM        
rotella 15/40 for me
____________
06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot

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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted May 23, 2011 09:57 AM        
Clean oil. :-) I use Mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle or Amsoil 10-40 for motorcycles.... for hot Texas street use. Any good syn 10-40 that is clean and filled correctly. If you Drag Race .......change the oil and filter more often....., look at some of the oil pans from engine failures. Slip the clutch and forget about the clutch dust in the oil. And bad things happen to to a good running engine. Back in theday when I bracket Raced a old FJ1200 I changed the oil and filter after every week end. I still have that 1986 FJ1200 with 61,000 Hard miles...still running.
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joel787


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted May 23, 2011 10:38 AM        
Spectra semi synthetic every 2k
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html

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gilberjj


Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
posted May 23, 2011 10:48 AM        
quote:
Spectra semi synthetic every 2k


Sounds like you like to throw away money.


Rotella syn 5w40 for me!!!!

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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted May 23, 2011 10:54 AM        Edited By: smokinZX14 on 23 May 2011 18:54
Mobil One full Syn car oil .. Way more than 1000 passes not a single problem.
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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joel787


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted May 23, 2011 11:06 AM        
If you gonna run it to the ground atleast treat with some fresh oil
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html

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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted May 23, 2011 11:29 AM        
quote:
Mobil One full Syn car oil .. Way more than 1000 passes not a single problem.


How often do you change the oil and filter Lee?? Lot of my friends use the same car oil as you with NO problems on the street.... Clutch does NOT slip on long trips either and it's car syn.....10-40

Louis

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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted May 23, 2011 11:43 AM        
quote:
quote:
Mobil One full Syn car oil .. Way more than 1000 passes not a single problem.


How often do you change the oil and filter Lee?? Lot of my friends use the same car oil as you with NO problems on the street.... Clutch does NOT slip on long trips either and it's car syn.....10-40

Louis
I change it after 50 runs or so .. I'm pretty good about staying on top of that , it one of the cheapest things you can do to make a motor live .. As you can see by my numbers my clutch has never slipped either .. If all i did was street riding i would change it around 2500 miles or so ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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joeyzutes


Parking Attendant
Posts: 3
posted May 23, 2011 11:55 AM        
the car oil is ok for the wet clutch?
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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted May 23, 2011 11:58 AM        
quote:
the car oil is ok for the wet clutch?
5000 1/4 mile passes on two zx14s that i have owned , you tell me ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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Newf14


Zone Head
2007 ZX1400
Posts: 563
posted May 23, 2011 12:30 PM        
I use Mobile 1 motorcycle 10w40 synthetic, Is the car synthetic cheeper than the motorcycle synthetic mobile?

Newf14

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1badzx12r


Needs a life
Posts: 8321
posted May 23, 2011 12:38 PM        
i hate to tell y'all this but the Rotella is JASO Approved ..SO that doesn't make it car or diesel oil
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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted May 23, 2011 12:47 PM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
Mobil One full Syn car oil .. Way more than 1000 passes not a single problem.


How often do you change the oil and filter Lee?? Lot of my friends use the same car oil as you with NO problems on the street.... Clutch does NOT slip on long trips either and it's car syn.....10-40

Louis
I change it after 50 runs or so .. I'm pretty good about staying on top of that , it one of the cheapest things you can do to make a motor live .. As you can see by my numbers my clutch has never slipped either .. If all i did was street riding i would change it around 2500 miles or so ..



WOW 50 runs......... Good Left Hand. I was suprised at some of the pic's of oil pans I see from some of our members here. I would change mine more often.. :-) wish I could. Need to have bone spurs removed on rotator cup(.top of right shoulder socket.)....:-( long summer and no riding motorcycles...SUCKS. Glad my old Vette has cold air and good tunes.

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joel787


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted May 23, 2011 02:02 PM        
quote:
Need to have bone spurs removed on rotator cup(.top of right shoulder socket.)....:-( long summer and no riding motorcycles...


last feb. i fractured my right clavicle one month after surgery i bought my 14, dont trip man ull get to it.
____________
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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted May 23, 2011 02:30 PM        
quote:
quote:
Need to have bone spurs removed on rotator cup(.top of right shoulder socket.)....:-( long summer and no riding motorcycles...


last feb. i fractured my right clavicle one month after surgery i bought my 14, dont trip man ull get to it.


Glad your OK.. not as youg as I was lol after 50 hits you, it takes longer to rehab.......still my friends will be off riding this summer on the week ends while I am home setting........... I have a new amp for Home Theater system. :-)

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joel787


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted May 23, 2011 06:13 PM        
nice on the tv system. man u could be like huge heffner wile u get better.
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html

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johnbull


Expert Class
Posts: 314
posted May 23, 2011 11:48 PM        
Have any of you ever used the Shell Advance Ultra 15W50 oil?

I run this oil in the ZX14 supercharged race car engine which runs on the circuit flat out for 15 to 20 mins at a time and oil temps. get frighteningly high. The car is now running 2 oil coolers.

Some people say that if I go back to the 10W40 the oil will run cooler than the 15W50.
Any ideas on this?
____________
John Bul Racing. Malta.

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Y2KZX12R


Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
posted May 24, 2011 04:01 AM        Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 24 May 2011 12:03
I wouldn't run any automotive oils sold over the counter at an auto parts store or walmart etc. unless you have roller cams. If the oil is marketed as "safe for flat tappets" then you are ok.

Your buckets and cams need phosphorous and zinc and those oils have very little in them anymore. The automotive manufacturers have pressured API to remove these additives because they damage (plate) the catalyst and reduce there effectiveness over time and they have to warranty these catalytic converters for 100,000 miles now.
Any oils after API SJ are no good for flat tappets. Its not the bearings that are a problem its the High pressure areas like the flat tappets that you need to worry about. This is why you are seeing Titanium valves in these engines. The light weight TI valves allow the OEMs to run lighter tension valve springs to help minimize bucket and cam wear. This also frees up some HP.

When heads come in I can tell what buckets have been run with proper levels of phosphorous and zinc. The ones that haven't are worn wavy. The buckets get a wear pattern started that matches the cam lobe. At that point if you take the buckets out and switch them all around to different lobes and run the engine you are changing the contact pattern and the abnormal wear accelerates even faster. Add in a set of 65 pound springs and aggressive cams and the problem gets even worse. The cam lobes wear out and the buckets dish out. I see it every day.

Now the other problem is that typically the good racing oils with lots of phosphorous and zinc don't have detergents in them to keep the parts in your engine clean. the detergents are made to keep the carbon and crud in suspension. That's not something you want in a racing engine. That's why you see black carbon and crud at the bottom of the oil pan in a racing engine running racing oil and not in a street engine running a detergent laden oil.

So when running a non detergent racing oil you need to change it more often.

I recommend Joe Gibbs and Spectro oils. The weight of the oil you chose depends on your actual bearing clearances. If you don't know what your bearing clearances are then run the weight oil the manufacturer recommends. Never run a heavier weight oil to get more oil pressure. All that does is make your rods, crank and bearings run hotter.


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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com

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johnbull


Expert Class
Posts: 314
posted May 24, 2011 05:25 AM        
Re. your last comment "NEVER RUN A HEAVIER OIL TO GET MORE OIL PRESSURE. ALL THAT DOES IS MAKE YOUR RODS, CRANK AND BEARING RUN HOTTER."

So are you suggesting that in my case (running the engine in a car for circuit racing) using 15W50 instead of 10W40 is a bad idea? The bearing clearances are stock Kawasaki tolerances. The reason I went for the 15W50 is due to the constant high oil temperature. Please advise if you think this is wrong.

Thanks,

Josh.
____________
John Bul Racing. Malta.

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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted May 24, 2011 10:13 AM        
quote:
I wouldn't run any automotive oils sold over the counter at an auto parts store or walmart etc. unless you have roller cams. If the oil is marketed as "safe for flat tappets" then you are ok.

Your buckets and cams need phosphorous and zinc and those oils have very little in them anymore. The automotive manufacturers have pressured API to remove these additives because they damage (plate) the catalyst and reduce there effectiveness over time and they have to warranty these catalytic converters for 100,000 miles now.
Any oils after API SJ are no good for flat tappets. Its not the bearings that are a problem its the High pressure areas like the flat tappets that you need to worry about. This is why you are seeing Titanium valves in these engines. The light weight TI valves allow the OEMs to run lighter tension valve springs to help minimize bucket and cam wear. This also frees up some HP.

When heads come in I can tell what buckets have been run with proper levels of phosphorous and zinc. The ones that haven't are worn wavy. The buckets get a wear pattern started that matches the cam lobe. At that point if you take the buckets out and switch them all around to different lobes and run the engine you are changing the contact pattern and the abnormal wear accelerates even faster. Add in a set of 65 pound springs and aggressive cams and the problem gets even worse. The cam lobes wear out and the buckets dish out. I see it every day.

Now the other problem is that typically the good racing oils with lots of phosphorous and zinc don't have detergents in them to keep the parts in your engine clean. the detergents are made to keep the carbon and crud in suspension. That's not something you want in a racing engine. That's why you see black carbon and crud at the bottom of the oil pan in a racing engine running racing oil and not in a street engine running a detergent laden oil.

So when running a non detergent racing oil you need to change it more often.

I recommend Joe Gibbs and Spectro oils. The weight of the oil you chose depends on your actual bearing clearances. If you don't know what your bearing clearances are then run the weight oil the manufacturer recommends. Never run a heavier weight oil to get more oil pressure. All that does is make your rods, crank and bearings run hotter.


Well Jim you could be right .. All i can tell you is my motor saw no signs of wear after 3000 passes and 5000 hard street miles .. When i sold the bike the valve lash was still on the money ..The guy that owns the bike now has put another 10k+ on the bike with zero problems ..But this is a stock motor , a built race motor with stronger springs may have a different out come ..I would say if anyone is worried about this just use the oil that Jim has talked about in the above post .. I have used Mobil One for many years in race motors and never had a single problem BUT i also know that Mobil has made some changes since i started using their Full Syn oils and those changes could make a difference in wear on our zx14 motors .. Jim could be 100% correct , he does see these motors daily and would be more likely to spot a wear problem than us Avg joes..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted May 24, 2011 10:44 AM        
As far as using Syn oil in a wet clutch it's not a problem .. Your clutch will not start slipping unless it's allready worn out .. I get 200+ runs out a of a clutch , i pull them out and replace them before they are done .. I could still get more passes out of the clutch but i would rather remove them before a problem starts .. My low clutch wear might have more to do with my clutch hand and less to do with the syn oil , i just don't know for sure .. But what i can tell you is the clutch action is much smoother with Syn oils .. I can controll the clutch much better with a syn oil .. Action does change from brand to brand and weight to weight of the oils ..The Mobil One Syn gives me the best feel for the way i ride , other brands are too grabby for me... I like the little extra cushion the Mobil one gives me.. I have tried Brocks zero wt oil and it was very grabby ( like a light switch , either on or off ) Amsoil faired better but still too grabby for my taste . Keep in mind what is best for me may not be the best for you ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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1badzx12r


Needs a life
Posts: 8321
posted May 24, 2011 02:04 PM        Edited By: 1badzx12r on 24 May 2011 22:22
quote:


I recommend Joe Gibbs





bawahahaha


joe gibbs knows more than shell oil ..lmfao




just messin with you jim
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