1badzx12r
Needs a life
Posts: 8321
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posted January 20, 2011 11:56 AM
theres always a first time
after tearing down about 30 differant zx14 engines from 06 to 09 models ..it finally happen i found smaller rod bearings .. what marker paint that i could see was black on the bearings .. all the other bikes i took down had blue .. .. i'm going to mic out the crank later . but from looking at the bearings all of then are thinner rod bearings . this is an 08 model engine ..
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted January 20, 2011 12:49 PM
i used blue black and brown on mine.
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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RICH CRAFT 1
Zone Head
Posts: 681
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posted January 20, 2011 02:06 PM
The way you can tell if they have different main bearings, on the front of the case where they go together they have five little slots, if one of the main bearings is out of factory specs, that is not a blue bearing it will have a yellow mark in one of the five slots on which ever one is out, I have had a couple motors that had this mark on them, it won't tell you if it's a black or brown bearing but you know it's not blue. Most factory motors come with blue bearings in the rods and the mines. The black bearings that I found you could not see a paint color on them. The biggest bearing is blue. The black bearing is a little thinner, and the brown one is the smallest or thinnest. I use black bearing sometimes on my rods because it gives one half of thousands more clearance, each bearing is about a half of a thousands smaller than the other. You can also mix a black with a blue bearing and get one quarter of the thousands difference.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
Posts: 8321
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posted January 20, 2011 05:14 PM
quote:
The way you can tell if they have different main bearings, on the front of the case where they go together they have five little slots,Ken
yes i knew that ken and no slots are marked
main bearings are blue ..but all 4 rod bearing sets are black .. and the crank has no marks for them ..i find it strange .. i guess somebody must of been in here before .. this motor history i don't know ..but it had a brand new clutch pack .. some really carbon up piston tops.. must been 14 to 1 compression .. and some really burnt oil .. they probably never changed it since new
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RICH CRAFT 1
Zone Head
Posts: 681
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posted January 21, 2011 09:43 AM
If it has black bearings in it, it means that everything is standard, which is strange because almost all bikes come with blue bearings. On the big end of the rod where the weight mark is, let's just say it is a J then all four of your rod should have a J mark on them. If the J Mark has a circle around it "O" it means the inside diameter of the rod is big. If the crank is standard size you would use a blue bearing. The standard sizes clearances or 0.0012 ~ 0.0025 in. but the service limits are 0.0035 in. I like to go on the big side of clearances for drag racing because when the rod gets really hot it starts to shrink, not only are the clearances closer then, but it also won't let as much oil go past which helps cool the bearing. I'm not saying that you should go to the 0.0035 limits, but I would go to the big side, it's better to be a little on the big side, then to have everything get to tight and seize up. One of the biggest mistakes I ever did was not taking the rods to a good machine shop having them check for size, because if they've ever been really Hot they will shrink up. Which brings up another problem? Kawi says to replace the rod bolts after every tear down because after you stretch the bolts it's no good? But this can't be completely true because they have to torque the bolts to machine the rod to start with. I have used the bolts more than once, but I know that was sticking my neck out. and if you take them to have them check for size they will have to torque them also. My machine shop guy says they should be check for roundness after the bolts are changed. Just a good ideal. This is just what I know about rods and clearances.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
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posted January 21, 2011 10:54 AM
quote:
because if they've ever been really Hot they will shrink up.I have used the bolts more than once,Ken
anything that show signs of heat goes into the trash can on my end ..same here with the bolts i reused them also ..its the nuts that try to pull threads .. i've never lost a rod or crank .. i get pistons and head gaskets.. installed ape studs this time around and TQ to 70lbs .. i also going E85 with a RRPR and 630cc injectors . to kill the heat with boost .. so far highway tuning A/F is looking good at 8lb.. track tuning this saturday ..
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted January 22, 2011 05:36 PM
No matter what bearings you use you should plastigauge them to see what you have. Sometimes there is a difference in the same color bearing. I also have reused rod bolts. On aftermarket rod bolts they say to torque them to spec several times before you use the rod bolt. It's better to use a strech gauge on the bolt because then the friction it takes to torque the bolt does not come in to play.
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
Posts: 8321
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posted January 23, 2011 08:20 AM
quote:
No matter what bearings you use you should plastigauge them to see what you have. Sometimes there is a difference in the same color bearing.
thats too much work for a guy thats never had a rod or main bearing problem .. all the one's i took apart i can see what got them . 10,000 mile oil changes ..
i use to do all that plastic gauging and checking out a roundness on the cranks .. but now days all i do is keep whats working together and change out whats broken . like when a piston goes replace piston and leave everything else alone ..its alot easier on the pocket book.because if you look hard enough you'll find alot of stuff to spend money on ..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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