gilberjj
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posted December 27, 2010 10:48 AM
I purchased a .070" head gasket. It will put the compression right around 10:1.
Also, 01smokes, yes, I will be required to run higher boost to compensate for the lower compression. However, my engine will last longer. Boost is easier on the engine then compression. Plus, even though it's not my thing, but I could run a lot higher power on pump. I think I'll try up to 15 psi on 112 octane once it's all together. I have no problem being a guinea pig. I'll be sure to report my findings whether good or bad.
  
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Shane661
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posted December 27, 2010 10:57 AM
I forget, which turbo did you end up with??
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gilberjj
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posted December 27, 2010 12:27 PM
quote:
I forget, which turbo did you end up with??
Big 16g. Flows 550 cfm. More then enough for my needs. I think I may try 15 psi of boost. My calculations estimate my new compression will be 10.29:1
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Shane661
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posted December 27, 2010 12:28 PM
quote:
quote:
I forget, which turbo did you end up with??
Big 16g. Flows 550 cfm. More then enough for my needs. I think I may try 15 psi of boost. My calculations estimate my new compression will be 10.29:1
Have you bolted it up, and it fits with the existing piping?
Any link to this turbo?
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gilberjj
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posted December 27, 2010 12:59 PM
quote:
quote:
quote:
I forget, which turbo did you end up with??
Big 16g. Flows 550 cfm. More then enough for my needs. I think I may try 15 psi of boost. My calculations estimate my new compression will be 10.29:1
Have you bolted it up, and it fits with the existing piping?
Any link to this turbo?
Ya, I've bolted it up and everything fits. I ported the Turbine housing to make sure I'll be able to turn my boost down without the fear of getting boost creep. I couldn't find a 16g that had a low enough pressure wastegate for the zx14, plus I don't trust the small internal wastegate. So, I'm having to weld up an external wastegate to work with an internally gated turbo. I'll post up everything when it's done. To find the Chinese version of the turbo that will work, type in wrx 16g on eBay. There are a couple shops that sell the Japanese versions that I have. I don't remember which shop mine came from. I'll post a link later.
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Shane661
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posted December 27, 2010 01:20 PM
I see a few of them on Ebay. What advantage would this turbo have over the VF-22?
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gilberjj
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posted December 27, 2010 02:09 PM
quote:
I see a few of them on Ebay. What advantage would this turbo have over the VF-22?
Flows more cfm (more power/more efficient), cheaper, more popular (so easier and cheaper to rebuild), and much cheaper to purchase. I think the big 16g is better in every way.
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Shane661
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posted December 27, 2010 02:14 PM
See that the flow seems higher...but the 350 crank hp claim confuses me.Have you seen a compressor map, and the adiabatic efficiency compared to the VF-22?
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gilberjj
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posted December 27, 2010 02:31 PM
quote:
See that the flow seems higher...but the 350 crank hp claim confuses me.Have you seen a compressor map, and the adiabatic efficiency compared to the VF-22?
No, I have not. I'll post up my dyno sheets when I get it tuned. That should give us an idea of how it compares to the vf-22 in the real world.
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1badzx12r
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posted December 27, 2010 04:29 PM
quote:
quote:
I see a few of them on Ebay. What advantage would this turbo have over the VF-22?
Flows more cfm (more power/more efficient), cheaper, more popular (so easier and cheaper to rebuild), and much cheaper to purchase. I think the big 16g is better in every way.
i've never had to rebuild my VF-22 with 3 years and around 35k miles and 1000's of passes on my zx14 . but the Garret T3 on my busa seems like junk compairing the 2 ..
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Big_T112
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posted December 27, 2010 07:01 PM
My DBB Garret will leak oil out through the filter if you leave it on the side stand to long. But that's on the Busa. The inlet was on the otherside on the 14 kit.
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Big_T112
Pro
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posted December 27, 2010 07:13 PM
I could be wrong but at 15lbs of boost you will have about 17:1 comp. on boost. That is why the bikes require head studs. on my old 02 turbo Busa that had the RCC kit on it, I made 17 lbs of boost on a motor with spacer plate only, no studs. It blew the head gasket so bad that it blew the overflow tank up and the bottom line off of the water pump. All of this while I was near the 1/4 mile finishline at Hub City in Mississippi. It dumped all the fluid in front of the back tire. I thought the clutch plates had went out untill it tried to go sideways and I had hot liquid covering my leg and boot. It was a wild ride. It had actually lifted the head. Pulled it down and put APE studs and nuts and never had another problem.
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01smokes
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posted December 27, 2010 07:23 PM
quote:
My DBB Garret will leak oil out through the filter if you leave it on the side stand to long. But that's on the Busa. The inlet was on the otherside on the 14 kit.
nope it never leaked but i think i will put a scavenger pump on it now
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Big_T112
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posted December 27, 2010 07:29 PM
You don't have to on the 14. That's not a ball bearing turbo anyway. I don't trust those scavenger pumps.
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1badzx12r
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posted December 27, 2010 07:44 PM
quote:
I don't trust those scavenger pumps.
you sure do know when they don't work
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gilberjj
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posted January 03, 2011 01:13 PM
So, I'm going to work on pulling the head today. Whats the trick? I like the suggestion of just loosening the rear motor mounts, and lowering the motor forward to take the head off. I've done just about everything else, but I've never dropped the motor. What am I in store for? Loosen the throttlebodies, and what else? Do I have to do anything with the starter? Should I turn the motor over to TDC on any certain cylinder? Should I just put zip ties in the cam chain sprockets to keep them from moving? Thanks,
Jorgen
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KZScott
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posted January 03, 2011 02:30 PM
 Edited By: KZScott on 3 Jan 2011 22:32
i would suggest pulling out the dremmel and doing something like this to drop CR
it will help flow at low valve lift too
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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gilberjj
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posted January 03, 2011 06:02 PM
Thanks for the call and help Tim. I'll post up some pics of my setup
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Big_T112
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posted January 03, 2011 06:20 PM
No Problem, anytime
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08green
Expert Class
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posted January 04, 2011 02:28 PM
KZ,
For us lamens new to motors what did you do exactly-dremel out the valve pockets?
also
What head gasket sealer are you guys using?
Gilbertjj,
The service manual will tell you almost everything. If you are changing cams around i would suggest a degree kit with TDC tool, maybe a shim kit too..oh and if you tilt the motor put a strap around the frame and bottom end so the motor doesnt fall..you only need to tilt about 3' to pull the head.
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2004 ZX10
2008 ZX14
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KZScott
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posted January 04, 2011 06:49 PM
Edited By: KZScott on 5 Jan 2011 02:53
08green, i dremeled out the combustion chambers in the head(valve pockets are in the pistons). basically matching the combustion chamber size to the head gasket (bore size)as the combustion chamber is cast a little smaller. I also unshrouded the valves by removing that lip around them, thats what will improve flow at low lift. this will lower compression ratio as it makes the compressed volume a little bit bigger.
i dont use a HG sealer. these MLS gaskets are viton coated, just be sure everything is flat and CLEAN 
sorry for the hijack, but i think its relevant info?
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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