Rook
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Posts: 1125
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posted March 31, 2011 06:18 AM
Thanks, Dogo!
How come the connector is out of your bike? Looks like you removed the wires where they stick into the back of the connector.
  
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted March 31, 2011 08:22 AM
quote:
Thanks, Dogo!
How come the connector is out of your bike? Looks like you removed the wires where they stick into the back of the connector.
No problem.
I used Ivans block offs, which came with a terminator to stick the wires in. That's why the factory connector is off of my bike. 
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Rook
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posted March 31, 2011 08:55 AM
Thought that might be the case. Sounds nice. You pull the two cylinders and plug into a terminator.
How did the cilynders come out of the connector? Just pull?
Did you start the bike to find out if it gave a code w/o the switch valve connector hooked up to anything?
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DogoZX
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posted March 31, 2011 09:33 AM
 Edited By: DogoZX on 31 Mar 2011 17:39
quote:
How did the cilynders come out of the connector? Just pull?
Each wire has it's own locking clip that you get at from the inside (opposite side shown in the pic). You push down on the clip and the wires slide right out of the connector.
quote:
Did you start the bike to find out if it gave a code w/o the switch valve connector hooked up to anything?
I did not. With as much shit as I have disconnected on my bike, right now, it would throw a bunch of codes. lol... Question has been aswered anyway... No code... no matter what year 14... The "FI fix" that comes with Ivans kit is really nothing more than nice clean way to cap the wires.
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Rook
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Posts: 1125
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posted March 31, 2011 10:41 AM
Yeah, I will prolly just wrap the connector up in tape to keep dust out . .........if I ever get it off, that is. I am pressing with a long screw driver stuck in the slot. No luck yet. Do you think a stubby would work better? This is as bad as the friggin connectors for the PC. Worse because i can't even see what is going on at all.
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Rook
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Posts: 1125
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posted March 31, 2011 11:26 AM
Edited By: Rook on 31 Mar 2011 19:34
FINALLY got it.
Removed the bracket that retains the gray wiring bundle on the left side so I could sorta get both hands in there.
I don't know how you big handed guys do this stuff. Must be very strong or you guys keep the wire cutters at ready.
There really is nothing holding the switch valve to the engine, is there? ....Just the hoses coming from the reed valve covers keep it where it sits. Pop the hoses off and the whole switch valve and everything comes out, right?
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted March 31, 2011 12:02 PM
quote:
FINALLY got it.
Removed the bracket that retains the gray wiring bundle on the left side so I could sorta get both hands in there.
I don't know how you big handed guys do this stuff. Must be very strong or you guys keep the wire cutters at ready.
There really is nothing holding the switch valve to the engine, is there? ....Just the hoses coming from the reed valve covers keep it where it sits. Pop the hoses off and the whole switch valve and everything comes out, right?
Yep, you got it. I disconnected the hoses so that I could slide the whole assembly towards the left side of the bike. No way i could have got my hands on the wire connector otherwise.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted March 31, 2011 03:23 PM
Edited By: Rook on 31 Mar 2011 23:52
I was afraid without anything supporting the switch valve, I would never be able to press hard enough to unlatch the connector. there's not a lot of extra wire that you can pull the thing out and disconnect it. Seemed I would still have to fiddle around under the air box with a loose switch valve. Oh well, it got done.
THANKS AGAIN , Dogo. Keep an eye out for the thread if you don't mind. I might have another question or two before this is all done.
AH-ha I see if you pull the left stick coil, it would be plenty of wire to pull the whole deal out an unsnap the connector. Big handed guys must have learned to use their heads.
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Rook
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Posts: 1125
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posted March 31, 2011 11:45 PM
Heey Dogo. Got the plates on there. Pulled the slockones off and took the hoses anf switch valve all in one piece.
How about sharing that secret of removing the cylindrical parts in the white connector???????? Got a pic here. (BTW, photobucket is sucking really hard since yesterday. WTF are they thinking?)
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted April 01, 2011 12:46 AM
As per the instructions that came with my kit:
"You will need a sharp pointed implement to depress the latches that hold the terminals into the connector and gently slide out of the rear of the connector - this does not require any force - they will slide out easily when the release is depressed."
You can see the latches to the left of the terminals in your pic. I used a scratch awl to depress the latches and a small (eyeglass repair type) screwdriver to push the terminals out while the latches were depressed.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted April 01, 2011 09:15 AM
Edited By: Rook on 1 Apr 2011 17:17
Thanks once again, Dogo. I will get my micro screwdriver set out this weekend and fiddle away while the kiddies are sleeping.
Just a tip, if any other first time block off plate installers should read this before it falls back down the black hole of forum obscurity:::
You CAN get a 3/8 drive ratchet with a hex socket under there to remove the plates. The trick is the handle must be inside. If you try to grasp the handle outside of the bike, it will not fit. Save you a couple hours of turning locktighted screws 1/8 turn at a time with an allen wrench until they come out.
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