swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted December 18, 2010 07:26 PM
Block off plates don't need to be thick cnc machined aluminum. The ones I made for the bandit were from thick aluminum sheet (1/32") that I cut with a jigsaw and smoothed with a dremel tool. I painted them black and they are not something you notice when looking at the bike. I suspect the 14 will be the same.
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
  
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Ford68XL
Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
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posted January 05, 2011 07:55 AM
Doe the installation of the block off plates void your warranty? I would have to assume yes, but you know what they say about assume...
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 05, 2011 09:43 AM
 Edited By: Rook on 5 Jan 2011 17:44
I would agree that it probably does. Anything you do yourself will. My warranty was up a while ago, I think. Didn't really care after 1000 miles. I consider the possibility of owning a lemon an acceptable risk to sport bike riding. I now have 25,000 miles and all is ship shape. Very few 14 have any problems that are serious enough to bring in for warranty claims. JMHO
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swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted January 05, 2011 02:15 PM
I picked up block off plates for $19.00. Do I have to remove the fairings? I'm trying to budget my lack of time.
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted January 05, 2011 04:08 PM
quote:
I picked up block off plates for $19.00. Do I have to remove the fairings? I'm trying to budget my lack of time.
Yes.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted January 05, 2011 05:15 PM
Thanks...there goes the Saturday ride :-(
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted January 05, 2011 05:21 PM
It only takes 10 min to take the side fairings off, and that's if you have never done it before.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 05, 2011 07:29 PM
Edited By: Rook on 6 Jan 2011 03:32
Side fairing means Grills, ram air covers, probably tank cover, lowers................pretty much all of them except fender, tail and the nose.
First time...that was a few hours easy for me. I'm extremely careful but 10 minutes? No way. Not this hombre. But it is routine after you do it like 100 times --lol.
The fairings are just the start if you take your time and do this right, I wouldn't realistically plan on riding next Saturday either. You will be pulling the tank off to plug the air box hole. That is quite a challenge the first time. Those electrical clips are the hardest part.
Hey, swiftnet----maybe go on that ride this saturday to burn the gas out of your tank. Much easier than lifting it out when half full. Set aside a couple weekends after that.
I don't know how the PAIR solenoid comes off. Haven't got there yet myself. Good luck. Don't be shy. Come back and ask for tips. I might need some too.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted January 06, 2011 06:14 AM
Why ram air covers?
You take the side fairings and lower fairings off as one piece.
Take grills off.
Take bolts out three bolts that hold side fairing to nose.
Under the nose take out the plastic push in clip. The black piece on the side under the nose will come off with the side fairing.
Undo first two bolts on ram air covers. The bolt by the guage dosent have to come out.
Remove the bolts behind the grills.
Remove the two bolts that hold on the lower fairing.
The whole side will come off together.
Much easier than taking it off piece by piece.
Maybe someone can explain it better.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted January 06, 2011 09:25 AM
I've stripped the bike down before when I installed my muzzy pipes. I was hoping the pair removal would be super quick, but if I'm taking off the fairings, I might as well perform several other tasks. I have a new air filter, new fork springs, and a new rear shock spring. I also have a new windscreen to install, but I want to try to mount my radar detector behind it, under the instrument cluster, that'll take half a day to figure out. I guess that's what I'll be doing all weekend.
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 06, 2011 10:29 AM
quote:
Why ram air covers?
....................
The whole side will come off together.
Much easier than taking it off piece by piece.
Maybe someone can explain it better.
I normally leave my ram air covers on there loose like you becuase they are such a beech to get back on....afraid I might snap tha little knob that goes in that slotted bracket beside the instrument cluster. BUt the ram air covers do need to be loosened.
Tank fairing needs to come off too. because it shares the same short pin that the side fairing hangs on......if I recall.
Nice that the lowers will come off with the side. Never tried that. Seems like it would be a bit more to hang onto while you disconnect the turn signal wire with the other hand.
Anyway, good luck.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted January 06, 2011 02:26 PM
Rook try taking the lowers off with the side next time. MUCH easier and faster than separating them.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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dcjens
Pro
Wet side of Washington
Posts: 1059
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posted January 06, 2011 05:39 PM
quote:
whats a G2?
wee
+1
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Black 06
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swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted January 09, 2011 04:57 PM
There really isn't a need purchase pair block off plates. The stock ones can be easily modified using a tap and a bolt. I removed my pair system today and saw that I wasted $25.00 on a pair of block off plates. The stock caps can be modified for less than $1.00 in about 10 minutes. Returning the pair system back to stock would involve simply removing the bolt and plugging in the hoses.
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 09, 2011 07:33 PM
Doh!--
Kawi had it all set and waiting for us. Oh well. I'm sure the Muzzy's look nicer--when you have the opportunity to look at them.
: \
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jlewis02
Expert Class
Posts: 195
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posted January 09, 2011 08:40 PM
I have the muzzy kit ordered.If I remember I will take some pix.
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08 ZX14
1.57 60'
6.09@124
9.24@155
SWB 5400ft DA 50hp shot
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted January 09, 2011 08:49 PM
fairings 7 to 10 mins top.
45 mins to drop the engine.
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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swiftnet
Novice Class
Posts: 88
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posted January 09, 2011 08:59 PM
The stock pair caps aren't that pretty to look at, fortunately they are hidden under pounds of plastic.
Fairing removal took about 20 minutes. Pair removal took about 30 minutes because I have large hands.
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Keeping the rubber side down since 1984
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CanTour
Parking Attendant
08ZX14
Posts: 16
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posted January 11, 2011 12:02 PM
I'm probably late to the party, and I have no experience with this, but I've been saving this link in my "favorites" for about a year. http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5183886&showprevnext=1
Maybe it will help.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 11, 2011 05:21 PM
Edited By: Rook on 12 Jan 2011 01:22
CanTour, Those are the Clem's Plates offered by Schnitz. You can see one side has a hole. AFAIK, That would be a set up to use if you wanted to scavange the draw created by the exhaust at the reed valves. Some people have run a hose from reed valves to their crank case to make a Positive Crankcase Vaccuum system. I wouldn't bother with block off plates if I were going to do that. Just hook up a hose from some of the existing equipment.
Sounds like a nifty idea but I run autotune which requires the PAIR system to be blocked so that extra air is not added to the exhuast.
Here's the block off plates I got from Schnitz today. The Muzzies. Come with a billet plug for the clean air hose hole in the air box. I don't think I would trust that long term. Looks like it could fall out. Probably be going with a big bolt and some washers with some locktight and a nut.
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4781572&showprevnext=1
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 24, 2011 07:22 PM
Edited By: Rook on 25 Jan 2011 03:23
The IMHO, the air box plug with Muzzy's Block Off plates isn't something I would leave in longterm. I would be worried about it falling out....or in--depending on which side you plugged the hole from from.
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gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
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posted January 25, 2011 03:29 PM
quote:
The IMHO, the air box plug with Muzzy's Block Off plates isn't something I would leave in longterm. I would be worried about it falling out....or in--depending on which side you plugged the hole from from.
Looks like you're supposed to put that into the rubber tube, and simply put a clamp around it.
If you want a nice peice, call cycle logic. They sell a 2 peice plug. The top peice is located in the air box. The bottom peice has a hole in it, and you tighten it into the top peice with a bolt. Seals well and gets rid of all the hose.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted March 30, 2011 10:22 PM
Edited By: Rook on 31 Mar 2011 06:26
^^^Nope instructions say to install from inside airbox. Then goes on to explain removing air switch valve and reed valve covers and then install block off plates. No matter. I'm not using it. It fits so tight it will surely distort the gromet and then it will be worth zip if I ever need to go back to stock. Looks like to get a new gromet, you need to buy the whole switch valve. SM parts fisch indicates the valve and gromet and hoses as one piece.
I came up with a better idea. Lowe's--black plastic end cap. Got 2 for 1.50 in the harware drawers. Sanded down the ribs to match the diam of the billet plug and it snapped right in like it was OEM. Not to tight but not going to come out unless I take it out.
inside airbox
underneath
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted March 30, 2011 10:30 PM
Here is the problem that vexeth me so deeply i had to dig up this thread again.....Help. Please----
How do I unlatch the white electrical fastener from the air switch valve? What tab do I press ( or pull?) and which direction? I did not break anything yet.......... but my fingertips. You guys who did block offs, how did you get that connector off of there?
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted March 30, 2011 10:44 PM
Here you can see the locking tab. Stick a flat head screwdriver in the slot, push down, and pull.
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