Superman T
Pro
Posts: 1831
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posted June 22, 2010 06:28 AM
Question on spark plugs remove/install
Well, I have 25,000 miles on my 06 and I just received my new plugs in the mail. I have my left side removed, connectors removed, some posts that were in my way, and I have a couple of questions.
1. In the service manual it says to add grease to coils upon reconnecting, are the most of you using di-electric grease?
2. With only the left side removed so far, can I only get to the 2 spark plugs closes to me? And wait to get the other 2 spark plugs on the right side?
Every post that said the space is cramped, that is spot on! I think I will take some pics for those that will need to change the plugs in the future. Any other recommendations would be awesome. Thanks fellas/ladies(if applicable)!
  
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INTIMIDA2OR
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RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 07:05 AM
Yes di-electric grease or if you don't have any then use regular grease.
It's mainly to ease removal so you don't have to apply too much force to get the sticks out .
And yes , most of the time you can only access 2 plugs per side.
Remember to replace the right hand vent tube back to the airbox other wise you'll hear a strange unheard sound and have to take stuff back apart to replace the tube.
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted June 22, 2010 07:22 AM
plugs are even easier if you get rid of the reed air and put on the block off plates, and ditch the valve solinoid thing. then you can reach all 4 plugs on one side. di-electric grease is good.
its not bad doing plugs on the 14 after you do it a few times. 10 min job now, and the factory tool works best.
____________
b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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Superman T
Pro
Posts: 1831
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posted June 22, 2010 07:32 AM
plugs are even easier if you get rid of the reed air and put on the block off plates, and ditch the valve solinoid thing. then you can reach all 4 plugs on one side. di-electric grease is good.
Compton- I remember installing a block off plug on the air system when installing my brock's system(supplied by brock). I'm not sure I'm unstanding the full context of your post. Do you have pics or refer me to a portion on the service manual for comprehension? If you could divulge more information, I would appreciate it. If I do what you suggested do I need to remap the bike or anything else that's mandatory? Also, where could I buy this plug locally? Once again I received the previous plug from Brock and I can't wait to order this from them and wait for shipping, I will be riding this machine today!
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Superman T
Pro
Posts: 1831
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posted June 22, 2010 11:13 AM
Ok so the service manual calls out for a torx set @ 115 LBS. I may have over tighten one of the spark plugs but I think I may have stopped just before.
Worst case senario, if I did strip the plug housing, what would my correction procedure(s)be?
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 11:50 AM
 Edited By: LAB3 on 22 Jun 2010 19:54
Spark Plugs are 113 INCH Pounds use the tool in the kit and back them off and hand tighten...........Easy. If you torqued down a spark plug that tight bad things will happen.
Worse case...remove the head and have a heli-Coil stainless insert installed in head where bad thread are.
Comes in a kit with a STI special tap for the old plug threads that are bad so the ss coil can be installed and now the plugs will screw into stainless threads. This can be done with head on but crud WILL fall into cylinder. If you have stripped the threads in the head.....Remove the head for repair... Good Luck.
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 11:57 AM
Edited By: LAB3 on 22 Jun 2010 19:58
opps double post
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted June 22, 2010 12:14 PM
quote:
plugs are even easier if you get rid of the reed air and put on the block off plates, and ditch the valve solinoid thing. then you can reach all 4 plugs on one side. di-electric grease is good.
Compton- I remember installing a block off plug on the air system when installing my brock's system(supplied by brock). I'm not sure I'm unstanding the full context of your post. Do you have pics or refer me to a portion on the service manual for comprehension? If you could divulge more information, I would appreciate it. If I do what you suggested do I need to remap the bike or anything else that's mandatory? Also, where could I buy this plug locally? Once again I received the previous plug from Brock and I can't wait to order this from them and wait for shipping, I will be riding this machine today!
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4781572&showprevnext=1
those plates that install on top of the valve cover. no i wouldnt remap the bike because of those. and the muzzy plates come with a nice billet plug that goes in the airbox where the brock plug went.
____________
b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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INTIMIDA2OR
Needs a life
RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 12:21 PM
quote:
Ok so the service manual calls out for a torx set @ 115 LBS. I may have over tighten one of the spark plugs but I think I may have stopped just before.
Worst case senario, if I did strip the plug housing, what would my correction procedure(s)be?
Ouch ! Please don't say the sparkplug threads are stripped!
Remember. These sparkplugs have a crush washer . Once they stop turning they are tight enough.
No need to tighten past that.
The type with the tapered seat are the ones that need special attention to torque.
If the threads are stripped then the only real choice is to use a "timesert". It is a solid thread insert as opposed to the heli-coil coiled wire thread.
Heli-coils are junk for this type of fix cause they are too sensitive and will most likely pull out or jam the sparkplug up and strip the hole out even worst after a few spark plug changes.
And the head has to come off for this operation.
Usually I get by with leaving the engine and head in when its a bike that you can see all the spark plug holes from the top. I grease up a 12" length of thin rope , kinda shoe lace size, raise the piston up to almost top dead center and put the rope down the cylinder. Grease up the repair tool and cut/tap the hole.
Then I fish the rope out with a piece of bailing wire. All the metal crap will come out with the tool and the rope.
But this won't work with the 14. No space to work much less see.
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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Superman T
Pro
Posts: 1831
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posted June 22, 2010 12:25 PM
Thanks Lab! Well the spark plugs are changed and I thought it sounded good before(I guess over time when you constantly listen to your machine it still sound good- old spark plugs were still decent) but now the twist of the throttle and it produces that sound I remembered when I first got it! I haven't ridden it yet as I'm still cleaning the engine while I have the fairings off. Some maybe intimidated with the task of changing spark plugs as I was reserve about the horror stories of the cramp space. But it was cool! My bike has not seen the dealership since the 500 mile oil change and I'm proud of doing all of my work, learning the bike as I go, and learning from those that have shared posts. Thanks fellas! Now if I can coordinate a meeting with Smokin to dyno this baby, take it to Bithlo FL and meet up with LeonidasZX14
Compton- I saw the area and the "valve solinoid thing" you were talking about. I didn't hear back in time so I left it there. The right side has more room(IMHO) then the left and I thought the job was smoother then what has been posted before. Everything came out awesome and I can't wait to take my blue beast(06) out for a spin later.... Thanks again.
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INTIMIDA2OR
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RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 12:26 PM
quote:
Spark Plugs are 113 INCH Pounds use the tool in the kit and back them off and hand tighten...........Easy. If you torqued down a spark plug that tight bad things will happen.
Worse case...remove the head and have a heli-Coil stainless insert installed in head where bad thread are.
Comes in a kit with a STI special tap for the old plug threads that are bad so the ss coil can be installed and now the plugs will screw into stainless threads. This can be done with head on but crud WILL fall into cylinder. If you have stripped the threads in the head.....Remove the head for repair... Good Luck.
Keyword here is "inch pounds" 113 inch pounds not foot pounds.
That would equal tightening till it stops then a "tad" more.
Foot pounds is what you use to tighten a rear axle nut . Not a spark plug.
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
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posted June 22, 2010 12:28 PM
hahaha! 115lbs! Those aren't head studs, they are SPARKPLUGS! Good luck.
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 12:43 PM
Edited By: LAB3 on 22 Jun 2010 20:57
quote:
quote:
Ok so the service manual calls out for a torx set @ 115 LBS. I may have over tighten one of the spark plugs but I think I may have stopped just before.
Worst case senario, if I did strip the plug housing, what would my correction procedure(s)be?
Ouch ! Please don't say the sparkplug threads are stripped!
Remember. These sparkplugs have a crush washer . Once they stop turning they are tight enough.
No need to tighten past that.
The type with the tapered seat are the ones that need special attention to torque.
If the threads are stripped then the only real choice is to use a "timesert". It is a solid thread insert as opposed to the heli-coil coiled wire thread.
Heli-coils are junk for this type of fix cause they are too sensitive and will most likely pull out or jam the sparkplug up and strip the hole out even worst after a few spark plug changes.
And the head has to come off for this operation.
Usually I get by with leaving the engine and head in when its a bike that you can see all the spark plug holes from the top. I grease up a 12" length of thin rope , kinda shoe lace size, raise the piston up to almost top dead center and put the rope down the cylinder. Grease up the repair tool and cut/tap the hole.
Then I fish the rope out with a piece of bailing wire. All the metal crap will come out with the tool and the rope.
But this won't work with the 14. No space to work much less see.
Used Heli Coil inserts on small block Chevy heads for years. NEVER had a problem with them backing out for spark plugs. (and rocker arm studs) I would NEVER risk metal shavings that did not stick to the greese, but I am old school on this.. been a Tool&Die maker for years on Air Craft parts. Red Loc Tight and make sure you snapped the drive tang off flush is the trick to a solid Heli Coil install. Head OFF. You labor and your $$. But for my toys we differ on this Lee. I looked at the timesert and I see how you can prefer them but Heli Coil installed correctly will work.
Louis
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LeonidasZX14
Pro
Posts: 1277
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posted June 22, 2010 12:53 PM
How does one acquire the OE sparkplug tool? I tossed mine on accident.
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09' ZX14
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 12:54 PM
quote:
How does one acquire the OE sparkplug tool? I tossed mine on accident.
You can only buy them in Texas.sorry none for you. :-) J/K ebay I saw a complete ZX-14 tool kit for $20.00 TYD.
Louis
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INTIMIDA2OR
Needs a life
RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 01:06 PM
Edited By: INTIMIDA2OR on 22 Jun 2010 21:13
quote:
quote:
quote:
Ok so the service manual calls out for a torx set @ 115 LBS. I may have over tighten one of the spark plugs but I think I may have stopped just before.
Worst case senario, if I did strip the plug housing, what would my correction procedure(s)be?
Ouch ! Please don't say the sparkplug threads are stripped!
Remember. These sparkplugs have a crush washer . Once they stop turning they are tight enough.
No need to tighten past that.
The type with the tapered seat are the ones that need special attention to torque.
If the threads are stripped then the only real choice is to use a "timesert". It is a solid thread insert as opposed to the heli-coil coiled wire thread.
Heli-coils are junk for this type of fix cause they are too sensitive and will most likely pull out or jam the sparkplug up and strip the hole out even worst after a few spark plug changes.
And the head has to come off for this operation.
Usually I get by with leaving the engine and head in when its a bike that you can see all the spark plug holes from the top. I grease up a 12" length of thin rope , kinda shoe lace size, raise the piston up to almost top dead center and put the rope down the cylinder. Grease up the repair tool and cut/tap the hole.
Then I fish the rope out with a piece of bailing wire. All the metal crap will come out with the tool and the rope.
But this won't work with the 14. No space to work much less see.
Used Heli Coil inserts on small block Chevy heads for years. NEVER had a problem with them backing out for spark plugs. (and rocker arm studs) I would NEVER risk metal shavings that did not stick to the greese, but I am old school on this.. been a Tool&Die maker for years on Air Craft parts. Red Loc Tight and make sure you snapped the drive tang off flush is the trick to a solid Heli Coil install. Head OFF. You labor and your $$. But for my toys we differ on this Lee.
Louis
I'm just traumatized by seeing heli coils that failed. None of mine ever failed but other installations that I've seen fail and the way they failed turned me off of heli coils .A good example but I don't know if you're familiar with the Barry Grant demon carburetors.
But they come stock with all the float bowl threads heli coiled to prevent stripping. All those stripped out after a few float bowl removals and it was brand new.
I used bigger bolts and bigger heli coils than the originals and never had a problem. But they still have me think .
I feel good using timeserts 
Also if you use a boroscope you can see if any shavings made it inside the hole. I wouldn't try doing sparkplug job with the head installed without it.
And I won't do it on a motor that doesn't have the spark plugs or cylinders that are perfectly vertical.
So far the majority of the metal comes off with the tool and never had a tiny bit of anything in a combustion chamber.
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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INTIMIDA2OR
Needs a life
RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 01:17 PM
I do remember 1 time before I perfected my system , I pulled the rope out before I installed the heli coil and as I was breaking the tang off it fell on top of the piston!
Luckily the tang was magnetic!
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 01:23 PM
A new reamer and keeping the tap straight is a Must on Heli Coils. I used Holley carbs for years.. Murry Jenson use to do his majic on Holleys back in the day. Remove power valve and re-jet to make up for it. One back fire and the power valve was ruined. Good idea on borescope for looking for chips from a tap.
But I too have seen some bad cylinders after a mechanic thought he had everything cleaned and blown out with head on. One little metal burr............... you know.
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INTIMIDA2OR
Needs a life
RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 01:25 PM
Damn we're both traumatized lol!
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted June 22, 2010 02:40 PM
Edited By: LAB3 on 22 Jun 2010 22:57
quote:
Damn we're both traumatized lol!
I do not think Heli Coils were not made for thin wall applications. Just a thought that went thru the od brain. :-)
Beer time.......... EDIT Quote my 6 year old Grand Son...... tooo much information lets play. LMAO
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INTIMIDA2OR
Needs a life
RED rider!
Posts: 13081
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posted June 22, 2010 02:56 PM
quote:
quote:
Damn we're both traumatized lol!
I do not think Heli Coils were not made for thin wall applications. Just a thought that went thru the od brain. :-)
Beer time..........
____________
'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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