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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Rod Bearing-ectomy with pics on the 06 1K NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
Big_T112


Pro
Posts: 1061
posted June 03, 2010 09:57 AM        Edited By: Big_T112 on 3 Jun 2010 19:35
Rod Bearing-ectomy with pics on the 06 1K

OK this motor has been together for 3 racing seasons and is time for a rod bearing freshen up. It's pretty much run every week on every T&T and on the weekend bike races. It has a 40 dry shot also. Drop in high comp pistons, thin cometic head gasket and the 01-04 trans mod. The first pic I had already pulled the motor and taken off all the engine covers.


Before flipping the motor over you have to remove the 11 top bolts for the cases. since we are splitting the main case they all have to come out. then flip it over. here it is with the oilpan removed. no metal and looks good. cleaned the pickup while apart.


Now the GSXR 1K's have 3 piece cases. Here the trans case is removed an you can see the the trans. keep a check on your dowel pins, sometimes they fall out.


Remove the trans. and set it aside. On the 1K make sure you have all 5 of the O-Rings in place. They may stick to the case half you took off. if so put them in there recess. they are very important!


Remove the bottom main case. there are numbers on the case to give you the order to take them loose. once removed there is one more important O-Ring.


Here I have already busted the rods loose and Yikes! I almost let this one go to long. Some of the bearings show through the first coating. 1K motors can't hold up like the 14 or the Busa. If you do a lot of spray (like this one) then you should plan on replacing the rod bearings. If not you might just be buying a crank and rods. This one would have not lasted this season.


OK here are the new bearings. all builders are different so here is what works for me. Suzuki sets there motors up tight. I have found that by going with the next size looser bearing the motors live a lot longer. I have a pile of Suzuki cramks to back it up with. but that's up to you so use your plasti-gauge and check it out on your own.
make sure you us some quality assy. lube also.


Next torque the rod caps and then the Suzuki gets a 1/4 turn more. I used new rod bolts but a lot of people reuse the ones they have. this motor sees spray and is run at high rpm all the time so I used a new set.


I use Yamabond, I like it but any you choose should be good. Installing the main case being careful not to upset the all important O-ring. these are torqued in order then another 50 degree turn.


Next install the Trans. Make sure your dowel pins line up on the bearings. more yamabond. And the other 5 important o-rings.


After the trans. case is installed and bolted down I take a pair of vise grips and put them on the shift shaft and work it up and down through the gears. You can work the sprocket back and forth to make it shift. It'ss better to check here than back in the bike.


all back together and ready to go to T&T tonight. took less than 2 hrs. hope you guys find it interesting.



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Nelson Taylor


Zone Head
Posts: 927
posted June 03, 2010 02:33 PM        
Enjoyed reading that tutorial.....
____________
Best #'s
1.54
4.03
6.02 @ 121mph
(Stock Wheelbase) 2006 ZX14

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oilfieldtrash


Zone Head
Kawasaki enthusiast
Posts: 506
posted June 03, 2010 03:13 PM        
2 hours I'd be lucky to have the rear wheel off.
____________
'09 zx6r lime green bone stock
'07 white S.E. ZX-14 sold

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zx-14lvr


Expert Class
Posts: 121
posted June 03, 2010 04:25 PM        
quote:
2 hours I'd be lucky to have the rear wheel off.


lmao

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Big_T112


Pro
Posts: 1061
posted June 03, 2010 08:36 PM        
looks harder than it is. Any one of you could do it.
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Quarter Pounder


Pro
with Cheese
Posts: 1069
posted June 04, 2010 08:13 AM        
just having the intimate knowledge is key...the work itself is not that difficult as you said. Knowledge is key. Nice write up.
____________
SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'

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Big_T112


Pro
Posts: 1061
posted June 04, 2010 01:41 PM        
Working on your own stuff is a lot cheaper than paying someone else plus you know what you have then.
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KZScott


Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
posted June 04, 2010 03:48 PM        
do the 1000s have dowel pins in the rods like busas?
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos

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Big_T112


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posted June 04, 2010 07:06 PM        
Yes they do.
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87gtNOS


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Posts: 620
posted June 07, 2010 05:04 PM        Edited By: 87gtNOS on 8 Jun 2010 01:05
Wow, the rod bearings....are they worn due to the abuse of the nitrous 'hit' as you shift through the gears?

I ask because I spray a real 90hp shot (dyno proven) on my Yamaha Apex snowmobile, which is basically an R1 bike engine. I do this on 91 octane all day long!!
A/F is 10.5 to 1.
However, the snowmobile has a centrifugal clutch, and when I hit the nitrous, it's over 9500rpm and the peak rpm is 11400rpm....so no gears to smash through!!!

Thanks for the pics and your thoughts!!
____________
01 ZX12R

07 ZX14 - YEAH BABY! 03 ZX9R-traded in for the 14!!! June 07!
05 636-traded in for the 9 Sept 05

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Big_T112


Pro
Posts: 1061
posted June 07, 2010 07:44 PM        
On the smaller 1000 cc motor's you get more wear when you spray them. I have put a few R1 motors together and they also have small bearing surface area. 3 seasons is not that bad out of a motor that is sprayed all the time and operates at high RPM. I am sure if you throw some missed gears, rev limit, NOS backfire in it just makes them wear worse. This is what I have found on my motor. Yours may be different. If the plasti-gauge reads over 3.1 it's time for some new bearings. In the past I ran them too long and would end up spinning a bearing. look for metal flakes in the oil, It's just something that works for me and a set of $50 dollar rod bearings every 3 years is a lot cheaper than a crank, rods and bearings. Make sure you use a window switch to cut the nitrous off at a preset RPM. If it still sprays on the rev limiter it will beat the rod bearings out of the motor in no time flat. which means a spun bearing.
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