SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 10:22 AM
0W-50 Oil weight suitable for ZX14?
I know the general thesis on oil for bikes is not to use energy conserving oils for motorcycle wet clutches but has anyone tried using a 0W50 weight oil? In particular i wanted to try out some Eneos 0W50 Racing oil. Its supposed to be Group IV based oil and is considered very good. I'm not sure if the ZX trans likes anything in the Zero weight so im just wondering.
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Hellmutt
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posted April 14, 2010 11:21 AM
 Edited By: Hellmutt on 14 Apr 2010 19:22
Alot of Brocks family drag guys seem to like Allisyn 0wt........the trans should'nt dislike it unless you're street riding with it all day, then it's possible you may have problems -- but in all honesty, I've run from 5w30 thru 20w50 in most of my past bikes with no oil related problems
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Hellmutt
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posted April 14, 2010 11:23 AM
I'm certain a more knowledgeable member can elaborate for you......anybody got this?
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SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 01:54 PM
Meh for the sake of the gearbox i think ill stick with 5W40 or 10W40 instead. the sound of 0 weight seems thin for the gearbox, i know the engine will be fine with it but the gearbox might not be happy. I don't change the oil every 1000 miles like some folks do.
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LeonidasZX14
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posted April 14, 2010 02:09 PM
Quarter Pounder, please correct me if I am wrong but........ The first number of the oil is at room temperature and the second is the weight of the oil once it heats up. So in essence wheter or not you put in 0w40, 5w40,10w40 they all end up at a 40w viscosity once heated so why put the zero in a street application? I have run Brocks 0w Alisyn and did not have problems but now I run Mobil1 0w20. Grab a quart of zero weight oil and pour some in your hand cool and then do it hot the hot oil is thicker.
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SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 02:20 PM
quote:
Quarter Pounder, please correct me if I am wrong but........ The first number of the oil is at room temperature and the second is the weight of the oil once it heats up. So in essence wheter or not you put in 0w40, 5w40,10w40 they all end up at a 40w viscosity once heated so why put the zero in a street application? I have run Brocks 0w Alisyn and did not have problems but now I run Mobil1 0w20. Grab a quart of zero weight oil and pour some in your hand cool and then do it hot the hot oil is thicker.
that's something I never understood. when the engine oil is hot it's thinner when I go to do oil changes when the oil is hot it comes out like water almost but I did it cold it comes out like a slightly thinner version of pancake syrup. From I understand the 0w stands for winter and like you said it's supposed to be a 50 wt when warm but it appears the opposite. The 0w50 still appears to be thicker the 5w30 I have for my car. I dunno I'm confused.
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 03:03 PM
Cool another oil thread! 
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SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 03:08 PM
quote:
Cool another oil thread!
You and your fucken popcorn! lol
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CrotchRocket
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posted April 14, 2010 03:08 PM
Edited By: CrotchRocket on 14 Apr 2010 23:10
0-50wt. is not recommended for street riding...Any shop will tell you
0 wt. is good for DragRacing since most drag bikes dont get warmed up before racing...Im talkin Grudge Bikes, wheelie bar bikes, Pro Stock, Pro Street, real Street...
If you build ur own motors & race in Pro classes where every mod makes a big difference then use 0wt.
If you ride ur bike around the pits, go for rides to warm it up, let it run to warm up or bracket race the shit out of it then 0 wt. is not for you...Unless you like rebuilding or buying new motors...
you cant go wrong with 10-40...
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Stevo13
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posted April 14, 2010 03:10 PM
quote:
Cool another oil thread!
At least we started with ZERO.............weight that is 
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zx14fan
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posted April 14, 2010 03:32 PM
Why would you want to put that pee water in your bike?? let me guess?? Hmm those little japanese people that walk around in white capes and carry little pocket calculators Dont really know that 0-50 w is really better?
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SteveWFL
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posted April 14, 2010 03:32 PM
oil threads are the best 
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Y2KZX12R
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posted April 14, 2010 03:33 PM
You should choose the weight oil by what your bearing clearances are. And as CrotchRocket said, what the use of the bike is.
The oils main purpose is to cool the rods and crank so the proper amount of flow is needed to keep the parts cool.
This is very important in top speed racing and even more so in road racing. Drag racing you can get away with having the wrong weight oil in the bike and not toast the engine.
A thicker oil isnt always better. A\ctually its rarely better.
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 03:38 PM
quote:
quote:
Cool another oil thread!
You and your fucken popcorn! lol
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 03:41 PM
My 14 likes royal purple 20-50 full synthetic 
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oilfieldtrash
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posted April 14, 2010 03:43 PM
quote:
Quarter Pounder, please correct me if I am wrong but........ The first number of the oil is at room temperature and the second is the weight of the oil once it heats up. So in essence wheter or not you put in 0w40, 5w40,10w40 they all end up at a 40w viscosity once heated so why put the zero in a street application? I have run Brocks 0w Alisyn and did not have problems but now I run Mobil1 0w20. Grab a quart of zero weight oil and pour some in your hand cool and then do it hot the hot oil is thicker.
is this true? Any help people
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LeonidasZX14
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posted April 14, 2010 03:49 PM
The reason you want a low weight oil at startup is to prevent dry starts. A light oil gets to the top much quicker than a thick 50w. 30 years ago the only available oils were straight weight oils but thankfully now we have the technology to produce multi weight oils.
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 03:52 PM
First, there's a two-letter code indicating the type of detergent package that the manufacturer uses in the oil, this looks like SE, SF, CD or such. The S codes are for gasoline engine applications; the C codes are for diesel engine applications. The second letter is assigned in sequence as new levels of protection are developed; thus SF is considered better than SE, SE is considered better than SD, and so forth.
The more noticeable designation is the oil weight. This is either a single number (e.g., 30 weight) or a pair of numbers separated by the letter W (e.g., 10W30.) The latter type is much more commonly used these days, and are the only type that most automobile manufacturers specify in operators manuals. The first number in the designation (10W) is the apparent viscosity of the oil when it is cold; the W stands for `winter'. The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil when hot. There is a trick here; the oil doesn't actually get thicker (turn from 10 weight to 30 weight) as it gets hotter. What is actually happening is that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity of a cold 10 weight oil. as it gets hotter, it doesn't get thin as fast as a 10W oil would; by the time it is up to temperature, it has the viscosity of a hot 30 weight oil.
Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all 30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot.
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 03:59 PM
quote:
oil threads are the best
+1! 
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SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 04:04 PM
quote:
First, there's a two-letter code indicating the type of detergent package that the manufacturer uses in the oil, this looks like SE, SF, CD or such. The S codes are for gasoline engine applications; the C codes are for diesel engine applications. The second letter is assigned in sequence as new levels of protection are developed; thus SF is considered better than SE, SE is considered better than SD, and so forth.
The more noticeable designation is the oil weight. This is either a single number (e.g., 30 weight) or a pair of numbers separated by the letter W (e.g., 10W30.) The latter type is much more commonly used these days, and are the only type that most automobile manufacturers specify in operators manuals. The first number in the designation (10W) is the apparent viscosity of the oil when it is cold; the W stands for `winter'. The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil when hot. There is a trick here; the oil doesn't actually get thicker (turn from 10 weight to 30 weight) as it gets hotter. What is actually happening is that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity of a cold 10 weight oil. as it gets hotter, it doesn't get thin as fast as a 10W oil would; by the time it is up to temperature, it has the viscosity of a hot 30 weight oil.
Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all 30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot.
So in essence, there isn't any real difference between say a 20W50 vs a 0W50 once its up to temps. Its basically still a 50wt oil regardless, but just flows better in the cold temps. If what your saying is correct, the 0W50 still hasve greater viscosity then my current 5W40 Rotella.
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SteveWFL
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posted April 14, 2010 04:06 PM
lol
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 04:26 PM
quote:
quote:
First, there's a two-letter code indicating the type of detergent package that the manufacturer uses in the oil, this looks like SE, SF, CD or such. The S codes are for gasoline engine applications; the C codes are for diesel engine applications. The second letter is assigned in sequence as new levels of protection are developed; thus SF is considered better than SE, SE is considered better than SD, and so forth.
The more noticeable designation is the oil weight. This is either a single number (e.g., 30 weight) or a pair of numbers separated by the letter W (e.g., 10W30.) The latter type is much more commonly used these days, and are the only type that most automobile manufacturers specify in operators manuals. The first number in the designation (10W) is the apparent viscosity of the oil when it is cold; the W stands for `winter'. The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil when hot. There is a trick here; the oil doesn't actually get thicker (turn from 10 weight to 30 weight) as it gets hotter. What is actually happening is that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity of a cold 10 weight oil. as it gets hotter, it doesn't get thin as fast as a 10W oil would; by the time it is up to temperature, it has the viscosity of a hot 30 weight oil.
Note that these numbers actually specify ranges of viscosities; not all 10W oils have exactly the same viscosity when cold, and not all 30 weight oils have the same viscosity when hot.
So in essence, there isn't any real difference between say a 20W50 vs a 0W50 once its up to temps. Its basically still a 50wt oil regardless, but just flows better in the cold temps. If what your saying is correct, the 0W50 still hasve greater viscosity then my current 5W40 Rotella.
Yes . The 0wt oil's will flow like water when cold but will be 50wt viscosity when hot.
The 0 weight oil will get to the engine components quicker than the 10 weight oil or 20weight oil when cold.
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oilfieldtrash
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posted April 14, 2010 04:31 PM
Oil thread for the win! But is 5w 40 okay for a Texas summer?
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 04:41 PM
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SLVR_BLT
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posted April 14, 2010 04:47 PM
quote:
Oil thread for the win! But is 5w 40 okay for a Texas summer?
\
Whats Texas summer like? Over here in Socal its usually around in the upper 90s in the summer sometimes hitting triple digits, is Texas like that too?
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