Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 13, 2010 01:26 PM
What did I do?
I installed one of Lyles 5A batteries and new plugs ( gap @ .035 ) and now the 14 won't run! It ran for 10 mins. then quit. Starts but immediately stops. Seems like fuel pump. Checked all connections,etc. Any ideas?
  
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted April 13, 2010 03:27 PM
Gap is .030.
Key on, battery should read 12.6 ~ 12.8v on a well charged battery. I've seen static 13.2v on other batteries. If Lyle's shoots past 13, thumbs up!
If it ran just fine before the plugs and battery swap, now all of a sudden, it's either the plugs or the battery. I'm leaning more on that off gap. Hand on the spark sticks says you can keep pressing down on the spark sticks, that is another variable you send them home all the way. If that is the case they never moved, then re-gap, we see anything past 12v.
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E-tard
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 13, 2010 06:46 PM
Check to see that all the connections are securely connected .
Check to see if the plug sticks are driven all the way home like the E-tard says.
Check your fuses too.
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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Flame On
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Fuel Air & Spark
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posted April 13, 2010 07:15 PM
When you turn the key on & don't hear the fuel pump start check that. Plugs are in a tight area loose connection might be it.
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77 RD 400
80 GS1000 GT
06 ZX14
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dubious
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posted April 13, 2010 09:57 PM
 Edited By: dubious on 14 Apr 2010 05:58
does it turn over?
were you running the bike, or idling it?
need more info.
charge the battery up again on charger too, but please one thing at a time, process of elimination.
If the battery had a bad connection, it may have discharged completely.
pm me your # and I will call ya tomorrow.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 14, 2010 02:28 AM
Manual says .032-.036 for gap. Fuel pump works when key is turned on. Put old batt. back in and no diff. but it is weak. Initial start up it idled 30 sec .and died. Took it for a ride and 5 min. later died. Restarted and rode 10 min. and it died. No restart this time. Cranks great. Just starts and dies. Batt. says 12.9 on dash. Plug gap too wide is listed in the troubleshooting section. .035 too wide? WTF?
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted April 14, 2010 06:06 AM
Edited By: speedgene on 14 Apr 2010 14:16
When it says, .032; I have a .030 wire gap checker and that just about pops down in between gaps. This is right out of the box> Machine settings. It does not tell you this in the book when it means, .036 is spiked off between center and side electrodes still with the machine set of the side electrode not moving, just arcs that create the gap. Not some gap is crap is get it?
The increment you have is .035999999999999999999999 which is some hand set!!?!? 035 is so close to the limit at the max. Therefore, .034 is blueprint or, .0339999999999999999999. Try to machine that.
Handover the gapper.
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E-tard
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dubious
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posted April 14, 2010 06:17 AM
Edited By: dubious on 14 Apr 2010 14:41
well you covered everything I was going to ask.
Gap the plugs .025 ... turbo guys gap.020"
It won't hurt anything to try it
No faults on dash?
Bad fuel?
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 14, 2010 06:46 AM
I can't see how the gap would make it quit running. Do you always run the "machine setting " ? Those 10 min. it ran It seemed smoother though! Maybe it was the 10lbs it lost...
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speedgene
Zone Head
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posted April 14, 2010 07:00 AM
Edited By: speedgene on 14 Apr 2010 15:07
Plugs are pre-gapped from the factory. You just eye pop or pop it with a measured gap against the others. What was the last thing you did that all of a sudden you messed with, 'bulletproof' not to start.
12.9v and no codes = "I installed plugs with a wide gap was the last thing I did to bullet." Proof is in the pudding we argue back and forth the bike ran once and now tell me how many times that bike never started quick with the old plugs from day one. YOu, one day with the bike and sparky the box plug.
Watt could be the problem we have fuel - compression - SPARK = Begins the troubleshooting tree is to question the gap from box to book to bend. I think we have spark but not all there spark. We have gas, but it's stale. We have compression, but it's 100 psi or less. So, we have a variable going with spark we still have compression, gas in tank, and we can keep going about starting that bike with stale gas and low compression and a weak spark that wants to jump but is too far.
I have a hay bale and we can pick straws all day if you want. Listen to Lyle, not me. At this point, you have nothing to lose.
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E-tard
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 14, 2010 08:13 AM
No codes. Good gas. I guess I will pull plugs and restore the gap. I have opened up gaps on many vehicles and they never shut down. Will post results.
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Shane661
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posted April 14, 2010 08:14 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Apr 2010 16:16
Check the venting of the fuel tank.
A pinched vent line could keep the fuel from flowing.
(I assume there is plenty of fuel in the tank? Don't rely on the dash)
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Sticks_n_Stones
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posted April 14, 2010 09:07 AM
Nice call Shane, even though I've had that exact thing happen to me before it never crossed my mind until you brought it up! Though I do think it would run longer than 30 seconds since its not a gravity feed.
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'06 zx14
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PCIII w/ Muzzy map
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bits n pieces...
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Shane661
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posted April 14, 2010 09:15 AM
I'm sure that after a few attempts the pump would suck a pretty good vacuum in the tank.
Worth investigating, at least....
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Acat
Novice Class
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posted April 14, 2010 11:46 AM
Changed the gap back. No diff.
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dubious
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posted April 14, 2010 12:08 PM
check the ground on your PC3
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natural selection.....
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Some are not worthy of the effort.
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makenna
Expert Class
Posts: 355
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posted April 14, 2010 12:19 PM
I was just about to post the exact same thing Dubious said. I had a ground problem and my bike was doing the exact same thing as yours seems to be doing. I ran a ground straight to the negative side of the battery and they stalling stopped right away.
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 14, 2010 12:57 PM
THAT WAS IT ! I did relocate the grounds when I installed the battery. Brought every thing together in one spot. Thank you!
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speedgene
Zone Head
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posted April 14, 2010 02:41 PM
A PC ground not connected to the recovery tank bolt but to the battery ground? Who knew? All this time you had the ground of the PC to the old battery post? No, I'm confusing you. OH, now you relocated the PC ground? How come all of a sudden you are far from that PC wire, you reset the plugs and now things run again? Though you never mentioned a PC relocation, why since the bike ran for how long with the PC grounded so well?
Hey, it runs and that is 'bulletproof' for ya. Strange none the less.
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E-tard
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted April 14, 2010 02:53 PM
quote:
THAT WAS IT ! I did relocate the grounds when I installed the battery. Brought every thing together in one spot. Thank you!
Cool!
Damn PC ground is the cause of most ill running 14's!
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14
*Lee*
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted April 16, 2010 06:20 AM
Actually I had the PC grounded to the frame, not at the reservoir, in one place, batt. ground on a 2nd spot and wire harness ground on a 3rd. You would think good frame grounds would work but no.
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