Hurricane
Expert Class
Posts: 173
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posted August 14, 2009 07:17 AM
Synthetic Oil?
I have 7500 miles on my 07. I wanted to switch to full synthetic oil. My dealer say's I should wait till I have 10,000 miles on it before switching to full synthetic, it could be bad for the clutch plates. Is this true or will I be ok?
  
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jdrill04
Expert Class
Posts: 238
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posted August 14, 2009 07:20 AM
I've been running synthetic in mine sence it had 500 miles on it.
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted August 14, 2009 07:23 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Aug 2009 15:23
quote:
I have 7500 miles on my 07. I wanted to switch to full synthetic oil. My dealer say's I should wait till I have 10,000 miles on it before switching to full synthetic, it could be bad for the clutch plates. Is this true or will I be ok?
Your dealer is misinformed. You will fine. 
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rich s
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posted August 14, 2009 07:25 AM
Full synthetic since 2500 miles and zero problems.
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Hurricane
Expert Class
Posts: 173
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posted August 14, 2009 07:51 AM
Edited By: Hurricane on 14 Aug 2009 15:57
Thanks Guy's.
Is there one you recommend? (Street riding)
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Old Guy
Expert Class
Posts: 470
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posted August 14, 2009 09:07 AM
Edited By: Old Guy on 14 Aug 2009 17:08
You will get lots of answers....,maybe.
Lots of oil theads, opinions and few (if any) oil techs that know what they are talking about.
I've got 22,000 miles of track days, treating my bike like a motard, commuting and touring with Rotella Synthetic.
Its a big rig oil. I get it cheap at Walmart.
You could have switched a LOOOONG time ago.
Oh I get my filters at NAPA. 1358
____________
Living the good life...,
On a XZ !!!!!
Tsukigi stainless full system
pcIII w/custom map
NO freakin flies!!
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Rich's custom seat
And a whole bunch of other stuff.
97 zx6r full race bike with all the
good stuff
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted August 14, 2009 09:12 AM
Either Mobil 15-40 or Rotella 5-40. Both at Walmart.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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epd345
Pro
Posts: 1494
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posted August 14, 2009 10:49 AM
Full synthentic since 1600 miles. Now 5K with no problem, I have been using Royal Purple Synthetic 20w50 MC with no problems.
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2012 ZX14, Ceramic Coated Brock's CT Meg, PCV, throttlemeister
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted August 14, 2009 01:29 PM
Just switched mine at 940 miles
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 14, 2009 10:21 PM
In the backyard garage you will find an oil test link from T & J Synthetics. Around 1000 miles is the norm to switch to synthetic oil for the 14. Bikes with steel liners can switch around 250 miles or a little longer depending on the type of rings. Bikes with nickelseal liners need more time to seat the rings. Some builders have different opinions.
James
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted August 15, 2009 02:38 AM
some new vehicles come from the factory with Mobil1, they have 0 miles on them,
wee
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 15, 2009 03:49 AM
quote:
some new vehicles come from the factory with Mobil1, they have 0 miles on them,
wee
That's right wee. I believe the Viper & Corvette are some that I heard of.
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14nooby
Zone Head
Posts: 987
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posted August 15, 2009 04:36 AM
I changed to synthetic at 500 miles. No problems yet
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Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted August 15, 2009 05:47 AM
A few heat cycles. Then a half hour of riding with several WOT to red-line spurts or 30 min on the dyno with a dozen WOT pulls and the rings are as good as there gonna be.
When assembling the engine don't load up the rings with engine oil. Its a common mistake. Wet a clean rag with some oil and wipe all the rings before putting them on the piston. And don't ever "spin" the rings on. Use a ring expander. Both of the above can cause improper ring action during start-up and the latter can slow ring reaction time and cause power loss in the upper RPM range for the life of the ring.
Put in the synthetic. Make sure it has a high zinc and phosphorous content.
Oils sold over the counter typically have been striped of both because these additives coat the catalyst and the Feds have mandated there removal. A racing oil doesn't have to comply with these API additive specs and has plenty of both in it.
I prefer Joe Gibbs SP2 10/30. We have seen these oils on the engine dyno make more power than dozens of other oils we tested.
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 15, 2009 06:32 AM
quote:
A few heat cycles. Then a half hour of riding with several WOT to red-line spurts or 30 min on the dyno with a dozen WOT pulls and the rings are as good as there gonna be.
When assembling the engine don't load up the rings with engine oil. Its a common mistake. Wet a clean rag with some oil and wipe all the rings before putting them on the piston. And don't ever "spin" the rings on. Use a ring expander. Both of the above can cause improper ring action during start-up and the latter can slow ring reaction time and cause power loss in the upper RPM range for the life of the ring.
Put in the synthetic. Make sure it has a high zinc and phosphorous content.
Oils sold over the counter typically have been striped of both because these additives coat the catalyst and the Feds have mandated there removal. A racing oil doesn't have to comply with these API additive specs and has plenty of both in it.
I prefer Joe Gibbs SP2 10/30. We have seen these oils on the engine dyno make more power than dozens of other oils we tested.
That's good info.
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 16, 2009 05:06 AM
Y2KZX12R, I trust your judgement. Not sure that I'm understanding. Are you saying that it's ok to break our 14 engines in with synthetic as long as it's high in the contents stated above? And, is the Jo Gibbs racing oil a car racing oil? Also, have you tested any Amsoil products? If not I'd be happy to send you some for testing purposes on the dyno for back to back test with the Jo Gibbs oil. My preferred oil would be the 5w20 Dominator racing oil if you would like. I see here on the forum that some people are using it in there bikes for racing purposes with great results. Thanks for any reply.
James
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted August 16, 2009 06:08 AM
Edited By: Wheelie on 16 Aug 2009 14:40
edit
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 16, 2009 10:26 PM
quote:
edit
Hey wee
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Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted August 17, 2009 10:37 AM
quote:
Y2KZX12R,...... Are you saying that it's ok to break our 14 engines in with synthetic as long as it's high in the contents stated above? And, is the Jo Gibbs racing oil a car racing oil? Also, have you tested any Amsoil products?
I wasn't so clear on that sorry.... no, I wouldn't use synthetic oil for breakin.
Use a regular 10/40 and use redlines breakin additive. Its a high pressure point additive
Then do the breakin procedure in my previous post. The most important thing is to get some pressure in the cylinders right away. Thats where the WOT thing comes in. But you dont want to sustain high rpm during breakin. Just short wot bursts.
Also this only applies to a fresh rebuild on an engine that has had some miles on it already.
On a factory fresh new engine there are several "hot" spots that will need some time to normalize such as bucket bores, cam journals in the head etc. Those may take a few hundred miles to clearance themselves and wear down the high spots etc.
The oil is a racing engine oil suitable for any non catalyst engine. It wont make your wet clutch slip.
Yes Amsoil was one of the ones tested.
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 18, 2009 06:08 AM
quote:
quote:
Y2KZX12R,...... Are you saying that it's ok to break our 14 engines in with synthetic as long as it's high in the contents stated above? And, is the Jo Gibbs racing oil a car racing oil? Also, have you tested any Amsoil products?
I wasn't so clear on that sorry.... no, I wouldn't use synthetic oil for breakin.
Use a regular 10/40 and use redlines breakin additive. Its a high pressure point additive
Then do the breakin procedure in my previous post. The most important thing is to get some pressure in the cylinders right away. Thats where the WOT thing comes in. But you dont want to sustain high rpm during breakin. Just short wot bursts.
Also this only applies to a fresh rebuild on an engine that has had some miles on it already.
On a factory fresh new engine there are several "hot" spots that will need some time to normalize such as bucket bores, cam journals in the head etc. Those may take a few hundred miles to clearance themselves and wear down the high spots etc.
The oil is a racing engine oil suitable for any non catalyst engine. It wont make your wet clutch slip.
Yes Amsoil was one of the ones tested.
Thanks for the reply.
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