Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted July 01, 2009 06:30 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 1 Jul 2009 14:31
quote:
I still think its a clutch, ive never been wrong, only mistaken. lol
wee
Even if the clutch is jerky, the suspension should not buck like a bronco....that is what the damping circuits are for.
  
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 01, 2009 06:59 AM
You definitely need to loosen up the spring pre-load a few full turns and start over with the rebound and compression...
Check under the rear fender to see if its rubbing...Get a tiger tail, unless you have 1 already...
Put a 44 tooth in the rear...
by the way whats ur weight now???
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted July 01, 2009 09:06 AM
quote:
quote:
I still think its a clutch, ive never been wrong, only mistaken. lol
wee
Even if the clutch is jerky, the suspension should not buck like a bronco....that is what the damping circuits are for.
yep.
wee
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Quarter Pounder
Pro
with Cheese
Posts: 1069
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posted July 01, 2009 01:47 PM
quote:
I did unscrew the spring alot and turned both rebound and compression screws in and backed them out a 1/4 turn.
Going full in on your COMPRESSION adjuster will make it SLOW to squat and more prone to wheelie. Not what you want it to do. You want the compression adjustment set soft to allow it to squat quickly for weight transfer. Making it hard on compression will act just like a strut to some extent. No good with street tire...nothing but smoke.
____________
SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted July 01, 2009 01:54 PM
quote:
quote:
I did unscrew the spring alot and turned both rebound and compression screws in and backed them out a 1/4 turn.
Going full in on your COMPRESSION adjuster will make it SLOW to squat and more prone to wheelie. Not what you want it to do. You want the compression adjustment set soft to allow it to squat quickly for weight transfer. Making it hard on compression will act just like a strut to some extent. No good with street tire...nothing but smoke.
With a stock shock, 65" of wheelbase and a decent sized rider, I don't think he is in danger of having too much compression damping. In fact, at 63.25" mine hooked perfectly and was controlled at the max damping settings.
Shane
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FlatoutBu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted July 02, 2009 07:12 AM
quote:
You definitely need to loosen up the spring pre-load a few full turns and start over with the rebound and compression...
Check under the rear fender to see if its rubbing...Get a tiger tail, unless you have 1 already...
Put a 44 tooth in the rear...
by the way whats ur weight now???
It's not rubbing I have a undertail. I got a 44 tooth...and I'm 190-195 in gear. This is where I hear alot of different set-up tips. Some say you want the ass to squat, some say you want it to be ridged. I would think squating would be more wheelie prone but hook better...ridged would be less traction..
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 02, 2009 08:01 AM
You have to find the right set up on the soft side, but not too soft and rebound should be on the slow side when it rises back up...
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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carlsbadbusa
Parking Attendant
Posts: 20
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posted July 02, 2009 08:23 AM
quote:
Shock Tech 101
The spring rate on your spring is what it is...the "preload" only dictates how much more pressure is needed to start to compress it. It just delays the compression with more preload making it feel stiffer. If you are extended, you are in a sense, making that spring softer due to the extra leverage being put on the suspension.
Compression damping adjustment screw adjusts the rate the shock compresses. More compression damping dialed in, the slower the shock will compress.
Rebound damping adjustment screw adjusts the rate the shock extends after being compressed. More rebound damping dialed in, the slower the shock extends.
Now, with that info, you want your bike to squat when you launch and to stay there as you come out of the hole. If you are rubbing, you need to try and dial in more preload. If you are a big guy, a heavier rate spring will be in order (especially if you are extended causing MORE leverage to be acted upon the shock).
You want very little compression damping to allow your bike to squat (weight transfer), so UNSCREW the compression adjustment to full soft.
You want a lot of rebound damping to keep it from popping back up, so screw IN your rebound adjustment screw to full hard.
From here, it'll just be minor adjustments to get it dialed in. Maybe a 1/2 turn or full turn on either once you get your preload set properly.
Where were you when i was having suspension problems, nicely done!
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted July 02, 2009 08:56 AM
The thing with suspension is it should to be active or "live" throughout the launch to wide open throttle. It should not be set where it squats all the way immediately when you hit the throttle. It should continue the controlled motion until the throttle is wide open. If your track prep is not so good and the setup is too hard you will spin, too soft and it bottoms out and spins too. If good track prep the bike bottoms the shock and wheelies when too soft (my problem that I hope is solved) or wheelies when compression is too tight. Tight rebound will spin the tire down track or wheelie if a lot of power. The bike set-up has a lot to do with it i.e. swingarm angle, wheelbase, horsepower, rider weight, and gearing. The 14 shock is just plain soft for a 200+ rider with a 6 inch stretch. We chased these setups everyday roadracing and I still have problems getting it right at a smooth sticky track. A good shock would immediately fix a lot of our heavier rider problems. There is a lot more to it than "squat fast rise slow".
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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Quarter Pounder
Pro
with Cheese
Posts: 1069
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posted July 02, 2009 09:54 AM
The biggest factor here is rider weight. As more weight exaggerates the settings on the shock. But understanding what is happening and what to do is key. Each bike, rider set up is unique and require different settings. My post above was more for an understanding of what goes on with the shock and how to set it up. Not the cure all for everyone's issues.
____________
SWB 2008 ZX-14
9.19 @ 151
5.98 @ 123
1.53 60'
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted July 02, 2009 09:58 AM
I wasnt aiming anything at you Jon. Now go practice....
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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