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posted April 12, 2009 02:55 AM
Not this again
Sorry guys , I know you hate TRE questions , but Ive read the whole forum and Brocks diaries and cant come to a conclusion on if the TRE008 advance timing or just opens the flies??? Getting a nitrous map on wednesday and am very curious . Thanks
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Doug Mackay Australia
  
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Douglas Home
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posted April 12, 2009 04:37 AM
Help "pissear" will wake up soon and confuse the hell out of me.
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Doug Mackay Australia
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zxbob
Pro
Posts: 1692
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posted April 12, 2009 04:39 AM
quote:
Help "pissear" will wake up soon and confuse the hell out of me.
DAMMIT !
Bob ... 
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Good parts aint cheap and cheap parts aint good !
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pazx14rider
Zone Head
Posts: 953
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posted April 12, 2009 06:27 AM
quote:
Help "pissear" will wake up soon and confuse the hell out of me.
Lmao
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted April 12, 2009 07:09 AM
"pissear" a.k.a. Hub .... Cap.... he just does that for Fun, I love it when he calls a mod 14
a Hack his muffler bearings need greese. I baited him Big Time on the other site on a TRE 008 thread Friday,
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bigdtd
Needs a job
Interceptors
Posts: 4209
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posted April 12, 2009 07:56 AM
 Edited By: bigdtd on 12 Apr 2009 16:01
quote:
Sorry guys , I know you hate TRE questions , but Ive read the whole forum and Brocks diaries and cant come to a conclusion on if the TRE008 advance timing or just opens the flies??? Getting a nitrous map on wednesday and am very curious . Thanks
i'm no tre expert, in fact, i would not use one....but one of them opens the secondary flies sooner if you have the flies in. the other is used in the flies out configuration to reduce the backfiring on decelleration. brocks sells that one on his site i believe.
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2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
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pissear
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Posts: 309
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posted April 12, 2009 08:10 AM
Yawnnnnnnnnnnnnzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, OK, I'm up. I will make it short and sweet.
1. Codes are limp modes. That is why you lose the 10th's.
2. She runs too rich as you see.
3. Do not confuse me with your Ivan numbers. I deal in book facts and colored wires.
At the GPS:
1. L/G (light green) > Will limp your bike if you have the flies installed. The flies drag and you cannot get out of the way as in passing something is you thought the '06 flies were slow is limp supreme!
A. Light Green travels from the GPS to the N light in your dash.
B. There is now a sequence where you can push the starter button in gear and the safety is out of the loop to stop you from lunging forward. If you [forgot you] were in gear is the sequence is the clutch is out.
C. Yes, C is your only way out is to start the bike > Is with the clutch in all the time to be safe.
D. Do you see the big dent in the fridge door? C-Dat? D = Data is watt I am talking about is you want to act the cam chain adjuster(?); you are now the fridge door monitor too = LUCKY YOU! Two Jobs are the Mods away from stock set is limp mode set. You control your world.
E. L/G is no longer lean and mean is now it rides in a, 'limp-over- rich' mode so your pop stops. Your green light stays on. Your red light next to it will blink if you have the sequence right to read yet another code warning blinking the dash in RED next to N.
2. G/R (green with red tracer) > Will set the (6) as per book. Your gear window no longer shows each gear position. The 6 means the lowest number is the riches number. At idle, your computer reads a higher number which leans it out. As you keep cranking the TPS open, she reads lower and now runs slightly more fuel is sends the nose dropping.
A. Watt the G/R does is now under what mode the book states in the backup function column. This sets the actuator to open sooner. This backup continues to set the fat rich stumble and if there is a retard mode going, this is it. It wants to take off and then signs off at the same time. Kind of hard to explain.
B. You are just feeling a quicker fly opening on the G/R. This will not help in your pop elimination. There is your bump in air speed feel is the air moving sooner into the engine.
C. As far as redundant is yes, there is and will be turned off. For example, one of my video runs; showed me how it walked the book; where I stalled at the D-J (idle low was doing funny things) to where I could not start the bike in D-J but could in a-N or the upper mid to WOT signal as per backup explanation. The more throttle I added, the more I crossed over to the mid to WOT or a-N side to where I could start the bike in limp as it says it will run. Just didn't tell you how limp though.
I more or less walked the codes and concluded that the limp may work for you and that lost 10th, but I want to clear cars quick and limp might work up to a point on the lower end. But the O/L seems to be you can't beat the engineers chasing the tune in that code way. I mean you can and most do. Some like it. Others find the stock setting seems more throttle friendly.
Yes, you will receive that low bump of grunt > But it will cost you up top and lag a little in the middle.
____________
way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted April 12, 2009 08:11 AM
Edited By: LAB3 on 12 Apr 2009 16:15
quote:
quote:
Sorry guys , I know you hate TRE questions , but Ive read the whole forum and Brocks diaries and cant come to a conclusion on if the TRE008 advance timing or just opens the flies??? Getting a nitrous map on wednesday and am very curious . Thanks
i'm no tre expert, in fact, i would not use one....but one of them opens the secondary flies sooner if you have the flies in. the other is used in the flies out configuration to reduce the backfiring on decelleration. brocks sells that one on his site i believe.
I am no expert either, when I purchased my 07 from the orginal owner the fly's were out
and the TRE006a was installed. No popping at any time and my Safety switch on the side stand still works............ the down side is No gear indicator,,,, I can count to 6 :-)
And I have No Lag..... can't speak for the TRE for 08/09 just saying what my 07 does.
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Douglas Home
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posted April 12, 2009 09:46 AM
Thanks pissear , did you have a coffee before that ? But sir , does that mean that the TRE008 changes timing ?? You have the advantage now , as it is 3.42 AM here and after reading that I need coffee and wont get back to sleep . Like a red head stepchild or wart , you are growing on me!!!
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Doug Mackay Australia
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pissear
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posted April 12, 2009 11:21 AM
Edited By: pissear on 12 Apr 2009 19:24
All I know is that it is not as peppy as stock. Maybe the timing is very quick and slight then returns to full advance only because it has to at these rpm's But we are back to full timing if the bottom lags you a 10th off that the beginning. It is sure not at the upper end of the rpm band.
And because it runs a limp rich or over rich... You are tossing the ball in the air if you really need a PC for the street when you have the 006 or 008 just setting off the limp mode or backup setting are somewhat rich.
Though I just came back trying to find a bike to shoot for reference purposes, the G/R wire runs a touch smoother than the N (light green) wire. I mean, it is so close; if that helps any.
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way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
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Douglas Home
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posted April 12, 2009 12:52 PM
This cofee is obviously not strong enough , I need it spelled out , does it affect timing ???
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Doug Mackay Australia
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted April 12, 2009 08:11 PM
quote:
Yawnnnnnnnnnnnnzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, OK, I'm up. I will make it short and sweet.
1. Codes are limp modes. That is why you lose the 10th's.
2. She runs too rich as you see.
3. Do not confuse me with your Ivan numbers. I deal in book facts and colored wires.
At the GPS:
1. L/G (light green) > Will limp your bike if you have the flies installed. The flies drag and you cannot get out of the way as in passing something is you thought the '06 flies were slow is limp supreme!
A. Light Green travels from the GPS to the N light in your dash.
B. There is now a sequence where you can push the starter button in gear and the safety is out of the loop to stop you from lunging forward. If you [forgot you] were in gear is the sequence is the clutch is out.
C. Yes, C is your only way out is to start the bike > Is with the clutch in all the time to be safe.
D. Do you see the big dent in the fridge door? C-Dat? D = Data is watt I am talking about is you want to act the cam chain adjuster(?); you are now the fridge door monitor too = LUCKY YOU! Two Jobs are the Mods away from stock set is limp mode set. You control your world.
E. L/G is no longer lean and mean is now it rides in a, 'limp-over- rich' mode so your pop stops. Your green light stays on. Your red light next to it will blink if you have the sequence right to read yet another code warning blinking the dash in RED next to N.
2. G/R (green with red tracer) > Will set the (6) as per book. Your gear window no longer shows each gear position. The 6 means the lowest number is the riches number. At idle, your computer reads a higher number which leans it out. As you keep cranking the TPS open, she reads lower and now runs slightly more fuel is sends the nose dropping.
A. Watt the G/R does is now under what mode the book states in the backup function column. This sets the actuator to open sooner. This backup continues to set the fat rich stumble and if there is a retard mode going, this is it. It wants to take off and then signs off at the same time. Kind of hard to explain.
B. You are just feeling a quicker fly opening on the G/R. This will not help in your pop elimination. There is your bump in air speed feel is the air moving sooner into the engine.
C. As far as redundant is yes, there is and will be turned off. For example, one of my video runs; showed me how it walked the book; where I stalled at the D-J (idle low was doing funny things) to where I could not start the bike in D-J but could in a-N or the upper mid to WOT signal as per backup explanation. The more throttle I added, the more I crossed over to the mid to WOT or a-N side to where I could start the bike in limp as it says it will run. Just didn't tell you how limp though.
I more or less walked the codes and concluded that the limp may work for you and that lost 10th, but I want to clear cars quick and limp might work up to a point on the lower end. But the O/L seems to be you can't beat the engineers chasing the tune in that code way. I mean you can and most do. Some like it. Others find the stock setting seems more throttle friendly.
Yes, you will receive that low bump of grunt > But it will cost you up top and lag a little in the middle.
Wow, I could understand it, and actually read it because it was understandable! 
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Douglas Home
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posted April 12, 2009 08:28 PM
Best I take the little barstard out. Thanks Guys.
____________
Doug Mackay Australia
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pissear
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posted April 13, 2009 05:03 AM
Doug.... Stay out of the G/R.... If it is retarding, then call it, "fuel limp rich" until you show me with a timing light it backs up in retard.
I cannot believe I set that bike up with that Ivan [and anyone else since 1999] tre thing is forget it. If it runs limp, that 10th should close this deal for me. We are pegged down on the HP hack. Stock is like no other. You can limp mode if you like the fell of it. It won't hurt the bike. It's just a, "lagging indicator" under my azzfactor.
Look, I am not knocking the change you feel. I pretty much walked a few of the codes just to learn more the diagnostics and not the tune. You piggy for tune. I am not saying there is no tune in your wire hacks. It's just limp lagging different and if you could feel it on the fly, you would be out of that code and back to reading your gear window. You are missing nothing.
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way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
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jdzx14
Expert Class
Posts: 412
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posted April 13, 2009 09:50 AM
Edited By: jdzx14 on 13 Apr 2009 17:51
....
____________
2007 Black ZX-14
Lowering links, Brocks Strap Kit, Muzzy Full 4-2-1, No files, PC3, BMC Race filter, 6 inch extensions,16/44, Shinko 003 Ultra Soft..... SOLD!!!!!
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Douglas Home
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posted April 13, 2009 12:12 PM
We all need coffee , thanks everyone for the help .
____________
Doug Mackay Australia
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johnbull
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posted April 14, 2009 08:11 AM
I've been reading through this thread and ......hell......I need something stronger than coffee after reading pissears posts.............I think it turned my brain into a liquidizer!!!!
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John Bul Racing. Malta.
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pissear
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Posts: 309
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posted April 14, 2009 08:45 AM
Sea Data... I should have stuck with my instincts is if Dub reads the Hub and understands it; you come in and the effect is, "Liquidization"... You rather hear I Hubbishash it out an see if 'Wee' can crawl down his pants and clear my throat is not spoon fed but born with a silver forking kawi blood donor is the TooFairy is coming to play dentist in someone's 100% cotton briefs. Beats me why the street needs my blood. It will just run down the water table.
Right about now you get a dixie drink from the tap. See if the sun did not burn my own dixie cup out is if this stuff gets in your eyes... See Dat? It's the antidote to the Dubbish understanding.
I cannot win either way is speak normal if that is normal or speak hub bush is juice a day kidding witch use is. More like... Not this TRE again. It is to un-confuse you = FSM.
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way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
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Douglas Home
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posted April 14, 2009 11:00 AM
Coffee please!!!
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Doug Mackay Australia
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ZX11D
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posted April 14, 2009 11:47 AM
Well, you asked for it 
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'94 ZX-11
'07 ZX-14
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