Shane661
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posted April 10, 2009 04:19 PM
Disassembling Headlight?
Has anyone taken this assembly apart? I am interested in removing the guts from mine...but not quite sure how to go about it in a non-destructive manner. 
Shane
  
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
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posted April 10, 2009 04:21 PM
People have been putting them in the oven, softens the glue, to instal halo's.
Not sure how hot it needs to get.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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posted April 10, 2009 04:22 PM
Maybe a heat gun would be better?
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dubious
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posted April 10, 2009 04:30 PM
I don't know.
It might warp, wheras the oven heats evenly, and the glue loosens up together.
With a gun it might cool off on one side while heating the other.
Don't know for sure buddy.
Google CCFL halo and zx14, the procedure has been posted numerous times online, on an other site
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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Posts: 11494
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posted April 10, 2009 04:44 PM
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-14-forum/13114-installed-hid-s-halo-s-yesterday.html
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northernkaw
Expert Class
Posts: 215
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posted April 12, 2009 07:06 AM
SHANE
LYLE said I should get a hold of you for 14 plastic I need .can I get your number?
HARRY 9056991953 hmanovich@sympatico.ca
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Shane661
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posted April 12, 2009 09:54 AM
Email sent
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Beondwacko
Expert Class
Posts: 393
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posted April 12, 2009 09:59 AM
Others have used a big pot of water and while soaking the headlight assy' boiled the water.
This will limit the extremeness(sp?) of the heating process.
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08' Atomic Silver, PCIII, Brocks pipe,BMC, -1, strapped front end
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Evilsports
Expert Class
Posts: 119
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posted April 12, 2009 10:04 AM
Here's a how to I did when I installed halo's on my bike.
-Prior to anything test your light tubes and ballasts on a 12v. It would suck to take everything apart just to realize you got duds.
-Remove foremans, lowers, tank fairing, mid fairing, inner fairings, and the inner cover up under the nose the bike. (If you need help with any of that refer to the service manual, chapter 15 I believe)
-Disconnect negative battery terminal then disconnect all six light bulb connectors.
-Unplug the tip over sensor
-There are two wiring brackets, one on either side under the inner covers. They also house the front well nut which the inners screw into. These are both held on by one screw, remove them. (All of the lighting wires route through a plastic ring on these brackets just so you know)
-There are two 10mm bolts left holding the nose piece on. They are located right by the tip over sensor and one of them should have a wiring tab which you need to bend over to reach the bolt. Remove them and slide the nose piece off the bike.
-Clear a table or work bench and put the nose piece on it to work on it. Remove all six bulbs carefully and put them somewhere dry and safe. I wouldn't recommend touching the glass.
-There is a metal bracket in the nose piece held in by I believe four screws. Remove it.
-There are five more screws holding the light housings into the nose piece. They are the Phillips screws (shiny ones) and the fifth one is hiding in between the two housings right in the nose.
-You can now remove the two headlight housings. Before the next step I would recommend cleaning the lenses of them thoroughly.
-Preheat your oven to somewhere between 150 and 220 degrees. You preheat it so that the housing isn't in the oven while the element is red hot and heating the oven up. (I used 170, ovens vary you decide)
-Place one housing into the oven for fifteen minutes. Check it regularly. When it is warm enough you will be able to bend all the plastic tabs around the housing back and pry it open with a flat head screw driver. It is a pretty good tug to separate the halves because they use a strong glue at the factory.
-Once you realize what it takes to seperate the two halves you should be a lot more comfortable on the second one. Cook and seperate this one also. (Try not to leave the housings open to the atmosphere for extended periods. You don't need moisture or dust collecting in here. Cover with a rag or something at least)
-Cover the bulb holes in each housing with tape so no dust or shavings gets into them.
-Mark the exact top of each metal ring in the housing. (This is just so the blank spot in each of your tubes lines up at the top on all your lights) There are two in each and they hold the glass piece in. Remove the three screws on each projector which hold the metal ring down which in turn holds the piece of glass in. This is the piece you will secure your light tubes to.
-Secure the light tubes to each metal ring using the mark on them as a top reference to line up the wires/blank spot. I used a clear all temperature epoxy. Let this cure for a few hours. Replace the rings onto each glass piece and secure them with the screws.
-Drill one hole per housing to pull the wires through, pull them through and seal around the hole very well with the same all temperature epoxy.
-Let this cure for awhile. While it cures get a tiny vacuum and clean all the dust and shavings out of your housings. Both sides. Make sure the glass pieces are spotless also. Don't try to blow them out with air because you will probably introduce moisture into them.
-When the epoxy is set, and you are comfortable with the cleanliness of the housings you are ready to put them back together. Simply place the two halves together so the tabs line up. Re bake the housing until the glue is soft enough to squeeze it together and fold all the tabs back over. (Mine took 11 minutes @ 170)
-I took some clear automotive Goop and spread it around the entire seal just to make sure it was good once it cooled. (There will possibly be a few dings from where you pried the warm plastic to separate them) Let it cure overnight.
-I took this time to mount and wire the ballasts. I mounted mine to the back of my gauge cluster with a few strips of rubber for buffer and some epoxy. One ballast on either side.
-I grounded the ballasts to the frame via bolt connectors soldered onto the wires and connected to the screws on the opposite side of the little metal piece holding my clutch line to the frame. (Right under the handlebars)
-I wired my positive through a pair of toggles mounted on the front of my inner covers and down to the white 12v lead which heads to the ignition. It is a 30amp fused wire. I wasn't crazy about heading right back to the battery without a fuse. I won't get overly into the wiring, that's your call. If anyone wants to know more about how I did mine just ask.
-Put your housings back into the nose piece (they go in a certain way so look at the tabs on them that the front screw goes through to see which goes in first).
-Put everything back together and voila.
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