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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Lifting front end NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted February 09, 2009 12:09 PM        
Lifting front end

I'm getting close to the 15,000 mile service and according to the manual I'm supposed to lube the steering stem bearing, which requires removing the forks. Is there a way to lift the front end by using the bottom of the bike somehow? I've read about using a hoist but don't have a way to do it in my carport. Will it damage the engine if I lift it with a jack under the oil pan? Thanks.

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NINJA12


Needs a job
Posts: 3310
posted February 09, 2009 12:11 PM        
No, just use a block between the jack and the pan.
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masszx14


Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
posted February 09, 2009 12:19 PM        
The safest bet would always be using a triple tree front lift.
Since they're not cheap, I would borrow one from a riding buddy.
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universal@mind

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted February 09, 2009 12:39 PM        
Ok, thanks. I'll have it on a rear stand as well so it will at least be a tripod and somewhat stable I hope. I'm looking at getting a tripple tree adapter for my current front fork stand but it's good to know I can do it either way.
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todd smith


Novice Class
Posts: 69
posted February 09, 2009 12:43 PM        
skip the service
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SteveWFL


Moderator
Posts: 27920
posted February 09, 2009 12:46 PM        
quote:
Ok, thanks. I'll have it on a rear stand as well so it will at least be a tripod and somewhat stable I hope. I'm looking at getting a tripple tree adapter for my current front fork stand but it's good to know I can do it either way.


If yours is a pit bull its not that expensive for the triple tree adapter
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted February 09, 2009 12:51 PM        
I have a t-rex, $60 for the adapter, not too bad. Has anyone done this on theirs yet? Will I be able to take the steering stem apart with it on a tripple tree stand?
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reevesmreeves


Expert Class
Posts: 147
posted February 09, 2009 01:07 PM        
hey simon,

got gear charges $300 to do it for you. lol! (checked on it last year when i put 15k on the 650)

while your at it, take some pics and do a "how to" for your buddies that will need to do this very soon as well!

did you get any riding in this weekend?
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted February 09, 2009 01:26 PM        
Whats up Mike! You've migrated here too I see. I'll try to do all this on my own, including valve checks in order to save the $$. If all goes well and I remember, I'll take pics of the process. Had drill this weekend so didn't get to ride, beutimus weather though, got me itching for summer! I'm headed to hattiesburg cycles tomorrow just for kicks, you working?
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ratbyk


Expert Class
Posts: 179
posted February 09, 2009 03:44 PM        
I did not try and put a lub gun on them BUT!! on my 06 ZX14 there are 2 grease fittings to the right side of the frame in line with the steering head bearings.I noticed them the last time I had the plastic off. I gave a quick glance through the shop manual but found no references to them. Something else came up and I forgot about it until now.
Anyone else notice this on their bike? Maybe lubing steering head bearings is a simple job. (once the right side plastic is off.)

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bigdtd


Needs a job
Interceptors
Posts: 4209
posted February 09, 2009 04:19 PM        
the fittings have to be there for a reason
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT

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reevesmreeves


Expert Class
Posts: 147
posted February 10, 2009 07:58 AM        
quote:
I'm headed to hattiesburg cycles tomorrow just for kicks, you working?


today makes the 16th day straight i've had to work! probably have to work this weekend too! i was so ticked off 'cause the weather was so nice. at least i got to ride to work yesterday. you wearing rain gear on your ride today?
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636

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Evilsports


Expert Class
Posts: 119
posted February 10, 2009 10:54 AM        
If you wanna do it on a bit of a budget this is my technique:

I bought two 4"x4" treated wood 6-8 ft long. Crawled into attic of garge and layed them crossways across rafters. Drilled a hole through each one. Drilled a hole through the ceiling from underneath and threaded two heavy duty eyebolts in through the rafters. With washers you can align them so just the eys are poking out. Then I just take a length of hardened chain with an odd number of links and a bitch link in the middle. Take off the seat of my bike and insert two hardened bolts through the ends of the chains and thread them into the sisy bar bolt holes in the frame. Attach a come along to the bitch link and the other end to the eye in the ceiling. For the front I just choke the neck of the bike with a soft sling and hook another come along through it and into the other eyebolt. FYI dont jack up the back of the bike like this without hoisting the front also or locking the front tire in place. If you don't hoist both ends the front tire can turn and overbalance causing the bike to twist and want to roll on its side. Works good for swapping rear shock out also. Hope that made sense. I got some pics somewhere I'll post..

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Evilsports


Expert Class
Posts: 119
posted February 10, 2009 10:59 AM        Edited By: Evilsports on 10 Feb 2009 19:04
A remedial how to I did for a local guy on a local board. Just for the rear end, but same idea for the front, just use a soft sling to choke the neck instead of chain and bolts.

Tools and equipment needed:

-Two M8x1.25 bolts. I used 45mm long ones to get a little extra thread. (This could obviously be a different sized thread for your specific bike)
-Eight flat washers to fit the bolts.
-36" length of chain (make sure there are an odd number of links.
-One "***** link"
-One 6-8" 1/2 inch threaded rod with an eye on one end and some flat washers for it.
-One comealong.
-One 8ft 4"x4" treated post.
-1/2" drill bit.

***When buying chain, threaded rod, ***** link, and comealong make certain it is rated for strength exceeding your bikes weight. I realize you won't be lifting the entire bike but do you really want to save a few cents here?***

If you do not have heavy duty rafters in your shop you will need to get something stronger up there. I just used the 4x4 post. Lay the 4x4 post across the rafters in the attic of your shop and drill a 1/2" hole through the middle of the post and through the ceiling into your shop. Insert the threaded rod through the ceiling and post and secure it with several large flat washers and a bolt. You can space it so that only the eye of the rod is poking through the ceiling.



Apply front brake and secure with zip tie.



Remove the seat off your bike. Remove the small cover on the back of your tail section. There are two screws and a rubber grommet securing it.



You will notice two holes threaded through a deep section of your frame.



Hook the comealong to the eye poking through your ceiling.



Hook the ***** link through the middle link in your length of chain, and then hook the ***** link through the hook of the comealong. Insert the two bolts through four flat washers each and then through the end links of the chain. Secure into the previously mentioned bolt holes and snug.




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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted February 10, 2009 12:07 PM        
Yeah, rain gear was def needed today. It wasn't raining in Richland or Hattiesburg but it seemed like everywhere in between got plenty. Good way to find leaks though, I've got 3 places that will need extra waterproofing...

Evilsports, thanks for the write up and pics, I may have to build something like that someday.

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