killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 03, 2008 08:05 PM
 Edited By: killakaw4life on 4 Oct 2008 05:07
Down for the COUNT!!!!!!!!! After only 2 Weeks
Long story short............Bought the bike 2 1/2 weeks ago and now the rod bearing has taken a dump. Created a thread about it not long ago asking about the knocking noise. many told me it was normal including SMOKEY (you owe me one lol).
I said ok and chalked it up as normal, but on Wednesday got on the thing to go to work and started hearing a more pronouced knocking during any type of accel. And that was before I left my subdivision. upon further checks I suspected the rod to be the culprit.
Well today after work, I pulled the clutch cover to check there first but found nothing wrong. Next I drained the oil and noticed it had very tiny almost microscopic like golden flakes in it. No big chunks, but I thought that can't be good. Finally got the pan dropped and there was only one small peice of babit in the pan, but oh when I pulled the pick-up off I FOUND GOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know what rod it is yet. Question for your rebuilders and engine guys out there........
Do you think that I can pull the inserts then mic the journal and buy new inserts or will the crank have to be replaced because damage is most likely already done. I'm thinking that it probably scored the crank but I'm trying to be optimistic.
Spent a good bit on this thing and now will have to fix it after only 2 1/2 wks if moderate use. My Luck sucks.
Also what is the cheapest route to a fix.
  
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted October 03, 2008 09:24 PM
Edited By: ninja12 on 4 Oct 2008 05:27
90% chance the crank is hurt.
10% you can replace bearing and ride.
My crank has been scared every time, but I replaced bearings only on a friends 1000 two years ago and it's still going strong.
Be sure to check ALL THE WAY AROUND!!!
APE or Marine Cranks can fix that crank much cheaper than a new one.
Can you do your own work?
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 03, 2008 10:15 PM
Yeah I can do my own work. Thats not a problem
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted October 04, 2008 05:53 AM
quote:
Yeah I can do my own work. Thats not a problem
Well that just plain sucks ..But maybe there is a bright side to this .... Ok seening your are mostlikey going to need crank work go ahead and do a 4 mill stroker with STD bore .... Can you say Sleeper.. 
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 04, 2008 07:07 AM
Well not so good Smokey. I buy and sell bikes so this will hit the pocket. Just started out. I wasn't planning on having it for too long. But I do understand the sleeper concept.
About how much on average does that type of work run? And I know I would need new rods.
Who do you recommend to do that work?
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SubZer0
Novice Class
Posts: 66
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posted October 04, 2008 08:41 AM
Holy crap are rod bearing problems common on the 14? Maybe I should get an extended warranty after all. What year is the bike? I just bought an 07, don't even have a 1000 miles yet.
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 04, 2008 12:12 PM
dont think so. it already had 10k miles on it which were probably all hard. i dont think i would be going through this if i had got one with less miles. its a 06
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 04, 2008 05:23 PM
Smokey, what size bolt are the two bolts that you need to pull the clutch basket. Or is there another way to pull the bearing? I know you just changed Jesse's shift drum star and shifter mechanism. And how did you get that bearing back in? Would I need a press?
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted October 04, 2008 07:59 PM
quote:
Smokey, what size bolt are the two bolts that you need to pull the clutch basket. Or is there another way to pull the bearing? I know you just changed Jesse's shift drum star and shifter mechanism. And how did you get that bearing back in? Would I need a press?
We didn't use bolts to pull it out , we used a coat hanger .. You can put it back in by hand but you really have to push the clutch basket into the ring gear to get it back in .. There is a factory to reinstall the basket but teddy and I got it back in with a little work .. The bearing a race are not pressed in , it just slips in place ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 04, 2008 10:23 PM
Just go on to check it and had got it out already. Found some m6 bolts that fit and pulled it out. Looed like it was pressed in there till I started to pull it out. I'm down to trying to split the cases. Took all the bolts out including main bolts and have rechecked that everything else is off thats suppose to be, but the cases won't split. Just double checking everything as I dont want to screw the cases up. Might try to rig up some type of rod and plate where when I tighten one of of the outer rim bolts, the plate and bolt will push down on the upper case and in effect push up on the lower case to break the silicon seal.
Any suggestions guys?
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NINJA12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted October 06, 2008 01:41 PM
did you get the bolt behind the clutch basket aand the one under the water pump?
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 06, 2008 05:59 PM
I had those two but forgot on small bolt that is on the side of the #3 crank main cap and the timing guide bolt. After that the halves came off pretty easy.
After pulling the rod caps off I found that #3 was the one down to the bronze part of the bearing. BUT IT DIDN"T SCORE THE CRANK!!!!!!!!!!! The crank is just as smooth as the others. I did see that the others were in the very beginning stages of starting to pit a little and wear. I will order some more bearing inserts, rod bolts, and main bolts and then measure the clearance once they get in with some plastigauge and go back up with everything.
It was late Saturday night at about 3am when I called it a morning so I can see how I missed those bolts.
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Bently
Needs a life
2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
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posted October 06, 2008 06:35 PM
At least the crank is fine!
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 06, 2008 06:47 PM
SHyt Damn F@@@ Well I rotated the crank and it had wear/sligth scoring on the opposite side. Slight copperish color showing and light light lines. Very very very light kinda like pitting in it. barely is able to grab my finger nail when passing it across there. Can I take the chance with that. My finger just drags a little when passing back and fourth across it. but never snags and stops. Please tell me I may be able to pass with it like that.
WHat do you think guys?
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted October 06, 2008 07:48 PM
Most will say no way. I have had good luck with "very light" scuff by re-polishing it with emery cloth and putting in new bearings. It's not the RIGHT thing to do but when you do your own work you can take a chance. The engine I did two years ago is still running strong.
Bet the scuff was from damage at the bottom of the stroke?
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted October 06, 2008 08:04 PM
Well you need to polish it and then Mic it ... If it's in spec after a hand polish the crank should be fine ... I would also mic the rods and make sure they are still round and in spec ... I would call APE or Coby and see if they have a crank you can swap out for if it's not in spec...
On the rods i would never just change the bolts without resizing the rod but that's just me ..
I think the problem we are having here is we can't see the parts in question and even if we could we can't mic them with a photo ..
So without that i would say replace that one rod with a new one and replace the crank and all the bearings .. Reuse the other rods and bolts as they are and TQ to spec.....
Smokin..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted October 06, 2008 08:19 PM
Edited By: ninja12 on 7 Oct 2008 04:22
Marine Cranks will probably get you back in the saddle much faster.
Marine and APE both do great work.
I have a spare Marine crank, if you're interested pm me.
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted October 06, 2008 08:19 PM
Both points well taken. What number emery cloth do I need to poish it with? I will also take the crank and Mic it after polishing it and also Mic the Rod to see if it is out of spec.
I did find a friend with a motor that had a bad Tranny in it and he bought one that had a little work in it so he is willing to sell me his and I would just have to change the trannys out and reassemble. But, I am curious to see if I can fix this one for little money as possible.
Thanks guys for your input. I know you can't mic pics but I will put some up as soon as I can just so you can take a peek.
Thanks again
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SteddyTeddy
Pro
Posts: 1664
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posted October 07, 2008 04:32 AM
I would also pull the oil pump apart and inspect it.
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