posted October 02, 2008 02:06 PM
I was going to suggest that you may want to move the muzzy shifter clamp a little further forward on the shifter. I have better luck with the slave straight up and down. I see that in your testing it shifted fine so what do i know. Pretty slick that you found away to use that busa bottle clamp on the 14. Good write up shane. This type post is key'' for guys just starting to mod their 14's and want to do the work themself's. Are you coming to mir saturday for the pinks race,If so maybe i'll see you there..... Bill..
____________
bill eason
quote:I was going to suggest that you may want to move the muzzy shifter clamp a little further forward on the shifter. I have better luck with the slave straight up and down. I see that in your testing it shifted fine so what do i know. Pretty slick that you found away to use that busa bottle clamp on the 14. Good write up shane. This type post is key'' for guys just starting to mod their 14's and want to do the work themself's. Are you coming to mir saturday for the pinks race,If so maybe i'll see you there..... Bill..
What bill said ... you need to shave down the ribs on the shift lever and move it up the arm a bit more ...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted October 02, 2008 03:13 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 2 Oct 2008 23:14
If you recall, the tire was rubbing the inner fender. I haven't been able to install a Tiger Tail, and I'm headed to the track tomorrow. So, I looked around and came up with this:
Just an old license plate that I drilled a couple of holes in and mounted under the fender eliminator. Should do the trick.
Well, I think it's 99% ready:
I'm going to head out to the garage and examine the shifter and ram cylinder one more time.
I examined the ram mounting. I am having a hard time understanding, from a mechanical standpoint, why I need to adjust it.
The cylinder does not know what angle it is mounted at. All it knows is pressure and stroke. In my case it requires approximately 3/4" of stroke to complete the upshift. By placing the mount a little further out it should give more leverage, requiring less force to complete a shift.
I'm not disputing what you say; I'm just trying to understand the theory behind it.
posted October 02, 2008 04:01 PM
Edited By: smokinzx14 on 3 Oct 2008 00:03
quote:Bill & Smokin:
I examined the ram mounting. I am having a hard time understanding, from a mechanical standpoint, why I need to adjust it.
The cylinder does not know what angle it is mounted at. All it knows is pressure and stroke. In my case it requires approximately 3/4" of stroke to complete the upshift. By placing the mount a little further out it should give more leverage, requiring less force to complete a shift.
I'm not disputing what you say; I'm just trying to understand the theory behind it.
Shane
When you buy Muzzys complter shifter kit it tells you to grind off the ribs on both sides of the lever and slide the bracket up as far as it will go ... This is to get the best ratio for the shifter ram ... I know you just got the bracket and mostly didn't come with the paper work like the shifter kit did .. I'm not saying yours wrong or will not work the way you have it, i'm just telling you what Muzzys wants .. But i do know that where you have it now will take more stroke to make the shift and it is possible with only 2 inches of stroke you may be close to running out of stroke ...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted October 02, 2008 04:11 PM
I can see what you are saying. There is also the element of how the shifter is positioned on the shift shaft as well; that could definitely affect achieving the proper stroke on the cylinder.
I checked several measurements and verfied adequate stroke and motion. I'll keep an eye out for problems though. I'll likely tinker with it when I get back from the track, unless I have to make trackside changes.
posted October 02, 2008 05:07 PM
First off that bike is killer shane. Man nice job. You may not get 5-6 gear under load with nos expecialy because like lee said your real close to max, stroke. Its funny you should show the tag to protect your ecu. I used the same thing only i put mine on the inside. I like the look of the stk undertail better then the tiger,and the tiger wont get you anymore clearance anyway. Bill.....
____________
bill eason
posted October 02, 2008 05:16 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Oct 2008 01:16
Thanks Bill, I really appreciate the compliments.
Hopefully it will work without a hitch tomorrow. Then later I can re-adjust it like you guys are talking about. I'm taking my dremel to the track, just in case.
posted October 02, 2008 05:18 PM
Shane
Remove that tag from underneath the tail section. The tire will hit it a fold the tag,it could cut your tire. If you want to use something,go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a sheet of thin aluminum and cut it so it will fit on the inside of your trunk area.
posted October 02, 2008 05:24 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Oct 2008 01:26
Ok, final thing for tonight. Last time I went to the dragstrip it led to an ugly clutch situation. I was using 5 Barnett heavy springs and I couldn't modulate the clutch well. This time I will be using 5 OEM springs with 3 Brock's spacers:
The firmest springs in the world are no good if you can't modulate the power. Perhaps this setup will be a little smoother for me.
posted October 02, 2008 05:29 PM
Shane, last nite i read all the posts begining to end. Thanks for all the great pics and the play by play of your build. You have used this forum in a unique way that seems true to the build in all of us. Now when i look at my black 06 it says to me, "alright what's up your sleeve and why are you looking at me like that". grin. and I don't know you find time to document all this but thanks! DJ
____________
Black 06
posted October 02, 2008 05:31 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Oct 2008 01:32
quote:Shane
Remove that tag from underneath the tail section. The tire will hit it a fold the tag,it could cut your tire. If you want to use something,go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a sheet of thin aluminum and cut it so it will fit on the inside of your trunk area.
Based on where the tire was rubbing, there should be no chance of it eating that plate. I'll inspect it at the track, and change it if need be. It's definitely temporary.
posted October 02, 2008 05:52 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Oct 2008 01:53
quote:Shane, last nite i read all the posts begining to end. Thanks for all the great pics and the play by play of your build. You have used this forum in a unique way that seems true to the build in all of us. Now when i look at my black 06 it says to me, "alright what's up your sleeve and why are you looking at me like that". grin. and I don't know you find time to document all this but thanks! DJ
I'm glad that you enjoyed the thread. I just found out that AOL ftp space is going away at the end of October. I am going to find a new place to host the pictures (260+ as of now). Hopefully the admins can assist me with editing the thread so that the pictures will be referenced from the new address.
I doubt that I am even half way finished with the bike at this point!
posted October 03, 2008 04:28 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 4 Oct 2008 00:34
I just got home from the track. The bike performed very well today. The setup that Rick (aka Crotchrocket) suggested was right on the money. It took me a little bit of time to get used to a different riding style, and I still have a long way to go. Here is my best slip; I am #44 in the left lane:
I set several personal bests on that pass...in fact, nearly every element of the slip (except r/t, of course) is a personal best for me! It was nice to get that 1.49 60 ft...and I almost squeaked it into the 5's in the 1/8th. Practice, practice, practice! I'll keep at it.
For a little bit of fun, Rick and I squared off for a few passes. I'm going to make a separate post in the Dragbike Zone about those runs. Suffice it to say they were very, very close. And almost identical back-to-back passes on our runs. Here are the two bikes side by side:
Rick's bike runs great, and he really knows how to get the most out of it. So, I knew it wouldn't be easy to beat him. If this were a "real" race I would have lost, since I redlighted. But since it was just for fun, we were just looking at the ET's....
Close one! Like I said, I will post the slips up in the Dragbike Zone soon. I want to give a special thanks to Rick for pointing me in the right direction on my bike setup. I didn't think it would work for me, but he proved me wrong!
posted October 04, 2008 02:17 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 4 Oct 2008 22:21
I was out cleaning up in the garage, and I saw a couple of things of interest. One thing, I figured after 3 months it was time for a mileage update:
That's right, only 350 miles since July! With all of the mods/fixes and racing events I haven't had time to run it on the street much. I think that will change in about a month; I plan to get out and enjoy the Fall weather.
Here is a picture that shows that the "license plate under the tail section mod" worked. Be careful if you do this; you have to make sure that the tire doesn't hit in a place that will suck the tag under. It could damage the undertail, and more importantly, the tire. You can see the black mark where the tire kissed the plate...safely:
I am using a Shino Ultra Soft rear tire. If you're wondering what makes for a sticky drag tire, look at the profile of the Shinko....flat:
If you've seen my videos and seen me leaning the bike over during the burnout, you're probably wondering why I do that. After all, I am going in a straight line! Well, when you launch the bike the tire squashes down and flattens out. By heating the sides of the tire you are making the whole contact patch sticky.
This week I plan to mount up my data logger and install the ignition module. I'd also like to get the lcd installed if I can fashion a decent bracket.
posted October 05, 2008 04:38 AM
i used a techmount to mount the lcd, it works well.
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
posted October 05, 2008 04:43 AM
I thought about something like that. But if it goes in the steering stem I don't think I can use it. The steering damper is in the way.
posted October 05, 2008 05:00 AM
the other two mounts i saw mounted via the gas cap screws or on top of the instrument cluster via some clunky locking device. neither one appealed to me. you may have to come up with your own design, which will probably work better. maybe embed it in a panel to the right or left of the cluster..........
the tech mount does use the stem, but my bike doesn't have a damper
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
posted October 08, 2008 10:45 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 8 Oct 2008 18:47
Now that I have the time, I modified my air shifter mounting arrangement. I wanted to move the mount on the shifter a bit, and get it more vertical. This would make for more reliable shifting. I was also experiencing some trouble downshifting. The linkage was getting caught in my sidestand spring.
Here is the way I had it:
Here you can see the interference between the kickstand spring and the shifter mount:
The stock shifter has a rib running down the side, front and back:
This makes it impossible to slide the Muzzy mount where I wanted it. So I used a sanding wheel and ground the ribs down with a dremel tool:
Now I was able to slide it up into place. Here is the improved mounting position:
This also gave me clearance on the sidestand spring. I also removed the clear vinyl covering from the spring, for extra room:
I took it out for a ride, and it works great upshifting..and I can get positive downshifts with my foot now. If you install one of these, be careful of how you position the shift lever on the shaft. It is easy to exceed the travel of the ram in either direction. As I stated, the Cycle-Tek kit came with a 3" ram...I had to use the 2" because of the Muzzy mounts. I imagine you have a little more room to make adjustments with the 3" setup.
In it he mentioned using a rear wheel from a 12R, for a significant weight savings. It is supposed to be a direct swap, so I figured I would try it and see the results. I have a 12R in pieces, and the rear wheel also happens to have a Shinko tire on it. So the weight comparisons should be close. The tire on the 12 is a little more worn, but probably not a big deal with the bathroom scale I am using. Here are the two wheels:
First up is the 14 wheel, with sprocket and rotor installed:
Next is the 12R wheel, with the sprocket carrier from the 14 installed, and a 12R stock brake rotor (they do not interchange):
Not bad, 3.5 lbs. for free really. That's equal weight savings to some aftermarket wheels!
Next I compared a few brake rotors. Here you can see that the 12 rotor is a little smaller in diameter than the one on the 14:
Next up is my 12R stock vs. 12R Braking wave rotor:
This rotor is 1 lb. or so lighter than stock. Unfortunately, the petals are cut so deep that barely any of the rotor will touch the pads:
I defintely don't like that. I took the bike for a ride, and the first thing I noticed was the pulsing. I don't mind the reduced braking, but I feel it is a safety issue the way the Braking brand rotor rides on the pad. Using the stock 12R rotor should be no problem at all, since it doesn't have the deep cuts of the wave rotor. I hate missing the chance to lose a little weight at a low cost, so I will be looking into some other aftermarket 12R rotor that is cut differently.
Here is the wheel on the bike:
These are just my results, and you may see differently on your scale. And, as always, be very careful when making changes to anything that could affect your safety. Measure, check, and re-check!
posted October 09, 2008 09:22 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Oct 2008 17:25
I don't use the rear brake much at all. But I am afraid of one of the pads cocking sideways and locking the wheel up at high speed. I haven't tried the front wheel yet, probably next week I'll give it a try...
posted October 09, 2008 09:47 AM
Put the 12 rotor on if it lines up in the bolt pattern and see if it reaches the caliper piston, if not then there you go...
Just put a block of some kind inplace of the pads so the caliper piston doesnt close...
posted October 09, 2008 09:53 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Oct 2008 17:54
The stock 12R rotor should work fine. I like having some rear brake, just in case.
I'll be finalizing this in a few weeks. I actually need to get another rear wheel, since this one is for my 12R. I also will likely be switching tires, away from the Shinko's. I'm probably going to save a few pounds there as well.
It's nice to get some gain without breaking the bank, for a change!
Shane
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posted October 02, 2008 02:06 PM
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