posted April 27, 2009 04:15 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 27 Apr 2009 12:38
quote:
quote:My #1 priority this week is sorting out my shifting issues.
Closely followed by learning how to ride.... just messing with you
I'm pretty hard on myself, but I'd say that after not being at the track in 6 months, a 9.31 on a .020 light was not a bad first pass, on a completely new bike. But nobody ever got faster by telling themselves how good they are...
So yeah, I have some work to do out there. I need to see some low 1.4's this season, for sure...
posted April 30, 2009 09:37 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 30 Apr 2009 17:43
I picked up one of these for testing:
A Speedcell SBK battery. I already have the Odyssey 310, which is 5 lbs lighter than stock. So, let's see how light the Speedcell is:
1 lb. 7 oz...very light. Over 4.5 lbs lighter than even the Odyssey.
I got the model with quick disconnects and hooked the leads to my existing stock leads for a quick test.
Test start:
Seems to start fine. My bike doesn't currently have any lighting, so that may be a factor. I'm also interested in testing to see how this battery holds up to a hot day at the track. I read somewher that these batteries might not like heat. I may relocate it to a cooler area of the bike. At this point I consider it a race-only part, until I can test it out further. Hopefully it works well, because it was not cheap.
I decided to give the battery a try because I may have to add some weight back to the front end to really get the 60 ft's down. With the BST, single rotor, lighter fender, and no headlight I have lost 20 lbs. off of the front end. The easiest way will be to add the headlights back, which are a whopping 7.5 lbs. Perhaps I can find enough over stuff to relocate to make up the difference...we'll see. If not, I will make the most of it and put some street miles on it with full lighting. I am formulating some creative lighting and ballast ideas...
posted April 30, 2009 09:50 AM
one of those would be nice for a 24v starter system.
____________
b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
posted April 30, 2009 03:44 PM
Shane I put over 4hrs on the zx10 I tuned last week, I installed a speedcell in his as well.
It ran fine and nevr showed signes of becoming tired.
I am really happy with it so far.... he still never picked up the zx10...LOL
I had it out a few more times... to make sure its tuned of course...LOL
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted April 30, 2009 04:00 PM
That's good to hear, Lyle. I almost bought a 2nd one for Racheal's 1000, but I just couldn't afford it. Time to sell some more parts.
I will probably put the Odyssey in her bike. It is still a lot lighter than stock.
posted May 01, 2009 07:49 AM
Josh mentioned that these batteries have zero internal resistance, (meaning you see more amps at the starter I think), as well they will provide maximum voltage until completely discharged, when they do die they die completely and very fast, there is not much warning the battery is going dead.
It will crank at full speed, then not at all from what i understand.
I had the ignittion on for quite some time without running the bike and it never showed signs of getting weak.
Josh also mentioned they have the capacity to take 10 amps fast charge for 20 minutes till fully charged, whereas a typical lead acid, or gell cell will overheat and become damaged.
The only down side is they get lazy at temps below 38' F
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted May 01, 2009 10:45 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 1 May 2009 18:59
A rainy day, and a small (?) project. First, let me say this: If you want a nice, small, easy to mount fender, get the bracket's that Dubious sells. They will allow you to fit a 10R fender without a lot of drama. You can even get 10R fenders that match some oem 14 paint colors. Info here:
Unfortunately, I am pretty broke right now after purchasing that battery. And I already purchased a Carbon Fiber 1098 fender. It doesn't come close to fitting the stock mounts, and it is extra challenging since the bolt holes come very close to the oem fork mounts. I decided to make a quick pair of brackets to mock everything up. I fashioned them out of Garolite composite that I had laying around:
Right now I am using 1/4-20 stainless screws and washers to get the spacing right. Later I will switch to metric button heads (or at least allens), and hopefully make some bushings.
I wanted to bring it closer to my 60 series tire than a stock height fender would allow. Right now I have 3/8-1/2" clearance:
I will probably increase this clearance to about 5/8" with my final set of brackets. I have some more stout composite here that I plan to use for my finished product.
A decent fender to for drag racing, and looks:
Still, not quite oem looking, but different.
I have about 4 hours in this today, and probably another couple to finish it. If I didn't already have the fender, I would definitely have gotten Lyle's mounts (and still may).
posted May 01, 2009 11:14 AM
Looks Good Shane!
When you do the final mock up for tire clearance, I used a piece of rubber hose taped to the center of the tire.
I also mirrored the best bracket for the opposite side, then everything will be balanced.
You have too much time invested now to buy mine I would say, you almost got it licked !
My brackets would not have worked well, your application is very specific, with the low profile tire and different fender
However, people can appreciate the work involved for something as simple as a fender... try a whole bike...
It took me an entire afternoon to design the original zx10 adapters too...
Lets see, $95 minus shipping $15 = $80 divided by 5 hours = $16 per hour.
I would rather buy a set than make them for that kind of money.
Plus, will they be as nice as a set made from a water jet with raduised corners and all..
Your fender looks really good!
....especially with those wheels!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted May 01, 2009 12:11 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 1 May 2009 20:50
I've been doing some research on my air shifting troubles, so I am going to be making a few changes to address the issue.
Basically, I will need to lubricate the solenoid, make sure that the ram moves freely, check my pressures, and allow adquate kill time. Since my solenoid was mounted in the battery compartment, I decided to move it to increase reliability. I am going to mount it directly to the ram. This will give me more flexibility with kill time (there is practically no delay), and keep the solenoid away from the heat of the engine.
Here is the old setup:
1/8" NPT 90 degree elbow:
Installed on the ram:
I may also be changing to braided line with AN fittings soon; the poly lines seemingly get hard and brittle from heat and age.
I also made a change to my axle adjusters. The arm came with 8" lengths of threaded rod. I only need about 5" of adjustment rod. So, I installed 5" Grade 5 bolts. Grade 5 should be more than adequate, considering the axle blocks are aluminum.
I also plan to install the locknuts on the axle blocks. This will keep too much tension from being applied to the threads in the aluminum block when I am adjusting the chain. It will also keep the rods from backing out.
posted May 01, 2009 12:45 PM
Looks really good!
All of it. ____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted May 01, 2009 01:59 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 1 May 2009 22:05
Thanks Lyle. I just strapped the bike down and measured the wheelbase...63.25". I am tempted to add some chain and take it to the "standard" 64". With it so light up front, it might help. It is a little shorter than I thought it was...but I had not been measuring it strapped. In fact, I bet it was right at 63" at the track the other day, I was able to pull it down on the strap a little tighter.
posted May 02, 2009 05:38 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 May 2009 01:47
I just weighed the front and rear of the bike. I've seen this method be pretty accurate in the past. The bike did not have the lowers, air shifter bottle, or battery in it. So figuring:
Lowers 9 lbs.
Shifter 2 lbs.
Battery 1.5 lbs.
Total 12.5 lbs.
Bike weight:
Front 250 lbs.
Rear 201.5 lbs.
Total: 451.5 lbs
Total, Race Ready: 464 lbs
The bike has a little extra fuel in it right now, and there are some more weight savings areas I will address as I get more time. But I would say that right now, with 2 gallons of gas, it is right at/under 465 lbs.
This is actually almost exactly what I expected. I'm sure that a different scale might weigh it as a little more or a little less..but it's definitely in the ballpark of where I wanted to be.
posted May 03, 2009 06:37 AM
damn shane! that's lighter than the new 1r! bravo my man!
btw, i enjoyed watching your vids on youtube the other night for the first time. pretty cool and your girl ain't bad either!
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636
quote:damn shane! that's lighter than the new 1r! bravo my man!
btw, i enjoyed watching your vids on youtube the other night for the first time. pretty cool and your girl ain't bad either!
Thanks! Racheal has really progressed with her riding. She has topped me at Maxton and run 211 mph on her Busa.
As for the 14, it's not quite as light as a typical 1000 (yet?), but it is world's apart from the stock bike. If I ever make the switch back to stock wheelbase, I will be able to drop a significant amount of weight...
posted May 03, 2009 06:51 AM
Shane,
I saw your other post about kill time and transmission work.
I and many I know would highly recommend Fast By Gast for a back cut tranny.
I had much better experience with theirs than the others.
I won't mention any names as they di the best they could to straighten things out, but the the other company that did my busa transmission sent me back someon elses beat up tranny, 2nd gear had chunks out of the cogs, they didn't deburr the cogs after back cutting etc etc....and the engine build was delayed by 3 weeks waiting for them to get it straight..
They did end up giving me a fully polished back cut trans that they charge $800 for the $400 tranny I wanted,
However, I do know how pissed you would be waiting an extra 2-3 weeks with your cases split and the bike on the stand.
FBG back cuts look much more accurate to boot.
Oh, while your in there, if you have the money and time I would get the crank lightened, or at least clems billet balancer shafts!
For sure do the shafts...! ____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
posted May 03, 2009 07:02 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 May 2009 15:03
I wonder how well it would work out with replacing the balance shafts, without doing any crank or additional balance work? Those shafts are heavy!
I'm getting a spare trans done, just in case I have any issues. I'm hoping not to go into the motor this season....but I want to be prepared. Having the parts here, I'm out of commission for just a week. I have been assured these transmissions are tough; but better safe than sorry!
posted May 03, 2009 07:07 AM
they also account the r1's extra weight to the counter balancers. i'm not a big fan of that bike but i thought you'd be interested in the comparison in weight.
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636
posted May 03, 2009 07:09 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 3 May 2009 15:11
The thing with the counterbalancers is that the weight is in a good spot for dragracing. But you could put that weight even further forward if you remove them. I'm just a little concerned about the engine longevity without them...I'm not knowledgeable about these things.
i didn't realize i couldn't get my full exhaust on the other night without new gaskets. now i have to wait on schnitz and take the headers and radiator back off. : ( should've read the first page of your thread! but i didn't think it would happen to me. all but the far right header sealed.
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636
i didn't realize i couldn't get my full exhaust on the other night without new gaskets. now i have to wait on schnitz and take the headers and radiator back off. : ( should've read the first page of your thread! but i didn't think it would happen to me. all but the far right header sealed.
Some people have good luck with re-using them. I like to put in a new set because if I have to pull the pipe again it is too much trouble and time.
Maybe I just don't have the magic touch with the old gaskets.
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posted April 27, 2009 04:15 AM
Edited By: 
just messing with you
I need to see some low 1.4's this season, for sure...
I am formulating some creative lighting and ballast ideas...
