Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 09, 2009 01:44 PM
quote:
someone gave me one of those for my zx12 a few years back.
I didn't put any sealant on it and I never had a problem.
I ordered some of the plugs and they should arrive tomorrow. 
Shane
  
|
gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
|
posted March 10, 2009 11:49 PM
quote:
I know this pipe will make excellent power. The big question for me was weight. I already knew what to expect after talking with Brock. When I told him how concerned with weight I was, he went so far as to pull a system and double check it for me. My measurements came out exactly the same as his. Just under 9 lbs, without the retention springs installed.
Here is how the weight breaks down, by my scale:
Assembled Header 5 lb. 15 oz.
Midpipe 5 oz.
Muffler with baffle 2 lb. 11 oz.
Springs 5 oz.
So, about 9 lbs. 4 oz complete with baffle. I plan to remove the baffle later, for even more weight savings (racing only). It will probably be easier to do that once the pipe is on the bike. In addition to the weight lost by going with the Brock's system, I am able to do away with the exhaust hanger/peg bracket. In my case, I have a TWW hanger which is about .5 lb. The stock hanger with peg is over one pound.
The Brock exhaust is approximately 5 lbs. lighter than the Muzzy system I was using. Add another .5 loss, due to the removal of the hanger.
I want to thank everyone who pointed me in the right direction, and I want to thank Brock personally for providing excellent customer service.
But, in short.....this pipe looks fantastic and I can't wait to hear it run, and twist the grip! 
Shane
I was doing some searching regarding Brocks lowering brackets and I stumbled across this... I don't know if you knew this existed, but here Brock broke down all the weights of his system. Here is where I found the info.
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=23685
Here is what he quoted....
There is misprint in our store. We switched to a dual filament wrapping in the mufflers a while back which added additional some weight, but added a much better sound with NO packing burnout . We have also slightly changed the wall thickness/construction of our front sections which vary from bike to bike.
Here are the latest system weights for the 2006 ZX-14 Generation 3 Oval systems:
FYI: These weights were determined using our small (50 lb max/2 oz increment) UPS Shipping scale
...... my triple beams won't measure high enough!
2006 ZX-14 system Ultra Light Stainless Steel Front Section:
1. 1-2 primary = 2 lb., 6 oz.
2. 3-4 primary = 2 lb., 6 oz.
3. Secondary collector = 1 lb., 4 oz.
4. 4 Flanges with springs = 1 lb., 2 oz.
Total Front section = 8 lb., 0 oz.
(Next) Generation 3, 20 inch Titanium Oval Muffler = 3 lb., 4 oz.
(Next) Generation 3, 20 inch Titanium Carbon Muffler = 3 lb., 4 oz.
Total Generation 3 system weight with Muffler (Ti, or Carbon) = 11 lb., 4 oz.
FYI:
Street Megaphone Muffler with Baffle = 3 lb., 4 oz. (Same total weight as above)
Street Megaphone NO Baffle = 1 lb., 14 oz.
Total Street Megaphone System Weight in Full Race Trim = 9 lb., 14 oz.
I hope this clears up any questions and sorry for the mix-up!
Brock
Brock's Performance
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 11, 2009 06:32 AM
That makes the Shortmeg, with baffle, 2lbs. lighter than the Gen 3 and Streetmeg.
I know for certain that my Shortmeg system, with baffle, is 9 lbs. 4 oz. I have not weighed it sans baffle yet.
Shane
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 11, 2009 01:13 PM
I got the metric set screw from Mcmaster Carr today. Some people have been able to use these as drain plugs, apparently. My experiments did not go so well.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING THE PLUG SHOWN IN THE PICTURES BELOW.
Here is what I have now, a stock drain bolt and trimmed guard:
Here is the plug compared to the stock bolt:
I had heard of two means of using this plug: loctite and teflon tape. Presumably the tape would seal and make the fit snug so that the plug would not back out. The loctite I assume would seal and then hold the plug from loosening. The plug does not seat on anything, so it will not tighten without some sort of additional means.
The tape provided a slighly snug fit. One that I may trust for one 1/4 mile pass at best. After backing the plug out, it leaves all of the tape in the pan...to be sucked up by the pick up. Here is what was left inside the pan after 3 times in with fresh tape:
I didn't bother with the loctite; I know I would not trust that. There is no preload whatsoever on the plug when installed.
I'll either be trying a different plug, with a head that seats...or taking this pan to the machine shop.
Shane
|
Obba
Expert Class
Posts: 455
|
posted March 11, 2009 01:52 PM
Just my tuppence Shane.
I'm not a metal / stress expert so i don't know how much 'head' you need.
But can't you grind down the head of the stock bolt, say half way down to get you close to the height you want? And maybe a thin spring washer to prevent undoing?
Or drill a small hole in the 'crater wall' of the pan itself and 'attach' either a wire or a small plate to the bolt (or worm), to make sure it doesn't move.
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 11, 2009 01:54 PM
I can get a lower profile bolt; I wanted to try the plug first, however.
What is going to break the pan is landing on the bolt head; all of the force is concentrated. If the plug had worked, that would have been the best solution, imo.
Shane
|
masszx14
Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
|
posted March 11, 2009 02:04 PM
Try some of the red permanent agents for the plug.
It won't come off by itself, but will take a serious fight to loosen up.
____________
universal@mind
|
icarus
Expert Class
Posts: 344
|
posted March 11, 2009 02:19 PM
Hey Shane, I have an extra drain plug that might work for you. I took a stock plug and
machined the hex off of it and then broached a 6mm hex in it. When used with the
stock sealing washer it protrudes maybe .200. The hex in this one is a little tight but
after a couple oil changes it should loosen up. I will gladly donate it to your cause
if you cover shipping from SW Ohio. I can't post a picture of it as I am using my work
computer. Let me know.
____________
8.820 @ 161.05
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 11, 2009 02:32 PM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 11 Mar 2009 22:35
quote:
Try some of the red permanent agents for the plug.
It won't come off by itself, but will take a serious fight to loosen up.
I change the oil too often to fight with the plug every time. My oil doesn't ever see more than about 200 miles, unless I take the bike on the street.
Icarus, I have another plug that I am going to try. If that doesn't work out I will take you up on your offer. Thanks.
Shane
|
ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
|
posted March 12, 2009 05:46 AM
Edited By: ninja12 on 12 Mar 2009 13:47
that's not the plug I have. My plug looks like the one you put in a O2 bung.
it has a small shoulder, but still uses a allen to remove.
I wish I knew where he got it.
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 13, 2009 02:29 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 13 Mar 2009 10:29
Well, one month down on my free horsepower (weight loss) program. I was 211.9 on 2/13/09, and my goal for 3/13/09 was 203.9. About 2 lbs. a week.
Well, the moment of truth has arrived:
202.5 lbs.
More than 9 lbs. lost so far; I'm pretty happy with that. I can feel my E.T. shrinking.
Shane
|
TooHype
Expert Class
Go Hard or Go Home !!
Posts: 427
|
posted March 13, 2009 02:58 PM
Good Job !! I cant stick to a diet.
____________
Go Hard or Go Home !!....2007 Diablo Black ZX-14, BMC Race Filter, Brock's Alien Head, Brock's Radial Mount Strap, PClll with Custom Map, Flies removed, Muzzy fan, Muzzy lowering links, Muzzy Fender Eliminator, 16/41, Speedohealer, Stretched 6", Lowered 3" IN GOD I TRUST !......If You’re a Hater….KILLYASELF !!
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 13, 2009 03:04 PM
quote:
Good Job !! I cant stick to a diet.
Thanks! Now I'm at the weight I was at last year, end of race season. From this point forward, every loss is a gain, speed-wise.
Shane
|
masszx14
Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
|
posted March 13, 2009 03:31 PM
quote:
quote:
Good Job !! I cant stick to a diet.
Thanks! Now I'm at the weight I was at last year, end of race season. From this point forward, every loss is a gain, speed-wise.
Shane
Shane's the biggest looser
Keep up and drop it another 10 lbs.
____________
universal@mind
|
dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
|
posted March 13, 2009 04:11 PM
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 14, 2009 11:06 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Mar 2009 19:16
I really feel for you guys who take your bike to the shop to have work done. I try to avoid it, but every once in a while I have something that I don't have the tools or time for.
One such job was my front forks. I don't have the tools and have never taken these types of units apart. So I ordered some Muzzy 1.5" lowering blocks and took them to my local repair shop.
Before they left I measured the free travel on the slider:
About 4.9"
I measured them when I got them back:
Less than 1" difference. Even with preload at 0, the difference is only 1". Why is this?
I'd like to think that you can avoid doing this to the fork caps when you remove and install them...especially since the caps are $104 each from Ron Ayers.
I also had new bearings put in my swingarm. I examined the arm and asked about an area that appeared to be missing something. I was told that "something didn't quite look right" in that spot. Well, we pulled up the fiche and saw that the large circlip was the part that they didn't have/install.
Fortunately I had the old one and installed it at home:
With my discounted rate, the bill was $370 for the fork and swingarm work. That does not include the Muzzy lowering blocks and some extra bearings. All told, about $500 for this work.
So, I'm pretty unhappy right now. I wish I had bought the special tools to do the job myself.
But, back to a bigger issue....Why are the forks only 1" shorter with the 1.5" lowering blocks?
Shane
|
dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
|
posted March 14, 2009 11:45 AM
Quote "I'd like to think that you can avoid doing this to the fork caps when you remove and install them...especially since the caps are $104 each from Ron Ayers."
esecially since they will require the "special tools" to remove......
You need the fork spring compressor, and rods, and the damper rod extension tool or an alternative to change them....
I think I paid about $300 from racetech....
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
masszx14
Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
|
posted March 14, 2009 12:03 PM
I won't forget paying $550 at a local shop in 05
for the PC3 and Akra exhaust install... and
Reed block offs on my old zx10
Rates for labor around here start at $80/ hour...
It's $100/ hour at the dealership I got my 14 from
____________
universal@mind
|
dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
|
posted March 14, 2009 12:25 PM
then to get poor workmanship and marred parts... what a rip off
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 14, 2009 12:26 PM
Any ideas of why the forks are only 1" shorter with 1.5" lowering blocks?
|
dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
|
posted March 14, 2009 12:37 PM
Edited By: dubious on 14 Mar 2009 20:39
Were they fully extended when you measured them before the mods?
Did you physically check and pull them out?
My gsxr forks had 1/2 " of sag unloaded, off the bike, before I put the ohlins cartridges in them.
They wanted to return to 1/2 " sag when i let go, but could pull an extra 1/2" out of them physically.
I am thinking the spacers go under the damper rod, limiting travel but also preloading the spring.... thus your forks extended under full preload stock would have been actually 1/2" longer than you measured.
Do they remove the top out spring to instal these?
I could be wrong....
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
|
posted March 14, 2009 12:44 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Mar 2009 20:45
I don't know what all of that technical talk means, Lyle.
All I know is that with some preload, they were 1" longer before than they are now with no preload...
They did say that installing the blocks increased preload, if that helps.
Shane
|
dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
|
posted March 14, 2009 01:22 PM
yup,
Thats what happened, you have preloaded the forks more than before... before they were slightly sacked when you measured them.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
masszx14
Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
|
posted March 20, 2009 12:16 PM
bump... for some new info on the build and pics
____________
universal@mind
|
gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
|
posted March 20, 2009 12:25 PM
Here's a thought. Since you already ground off the plug guard, use a shaved or low profile bolt and a VERY large washer. Instead of pushing through your pan upon impact, it will push on the washer, and if it is a large washer with a lot of surface area touching the pan, it will much more difficult to push through the pan.
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC