posted July 07, 2008 05:41 AM
Shane: Even though you can tuck better with the double bubble it angles the airflow up more than the stocker. This creates turbulence when it gets to the back of the bike. Having your helmet above the screen does not create much drag. My experience is with the "other" brand but the principles do not change. Try both windscreens this fall and see. LSL
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Home of the World's Fastest Naturally Aspirated motorcycles.
posted July 07, 2008 06:47 AM
Edited By: shane661 on 7 Jul 2008 07:48
Thanks for the information. I never gave much thought to how the windscreen might affect the airflow at the rear of the machine. I'll definitely be doing some testing to compare.
quote:Someone was wondering precisely how to get to the air fliter.
Somebody needs to read the owners manual...
:P
It's more fun watching Shane's pics and description
Keep'em coming Shane, excellent work!
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Feel the need for SPEED2007 ZX-14 Black with Red Flames (Helibars, Sliders, Yoshimura TRC Ti 4-2 Slip Ons, Fender Eliminator, Zero Gravity SR Windscreen, Custom Heel Guards , Speedohealer V4, Pazzo Levers -soon to come: Flies out / PCV w/A/T kit and later 16T sprocket)1990 Honda Steed (Japan model same as Shadow)1993 Kawasaki Vulcan EN 500 (gone as I trade it in for the ZX-14)Santiago, Chile, South America
posted July 07, 2008 12:42 PM
Dang Shane. I thought your zx was black until I looked at more of your pics. I totally dig that dark blue sparkle....nice ride!
posted July 07, 2008 04:07 PM
Ok, I'm feeling extra lazy after work today. So, I just installed a quick item. Since I am lowering the bike, I needed to install an adjustable kickstand. Spencer Cycle sells some nice ones at a reasonable price.
Goodbye stock piece:
Make room for this:
Aside from stretching the spring ("....Wolverine called, he wants his adamantium back"...), installation was a breeze.
I ordered a few more parts today. I was able to locate some exhaust gaskets thanks to another board member (Schnitz had them). I also ordered an extended rear brake line, a 16T countershaft sprocket, and some clutch springs. I'm hoping to make some big strides on the project at the end of the week.
posted July 07, 2008 07:06 PM
I can’t wait to see the finished product… can you give us a quick peek at the list of moods you have planed… I have some time on my hand’s and while my ride is in peaces now sounds like a good time to “personalize it” a little.
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ZX14 - Flies out,Full Yosh CF,PCIII,Dark Smoke, Thottlemister, Fender Eliminator, CF Hugger, BMC Race Fillter
quote:I can’t wait to see the finished product… can you give us a quick peek at the list of moods you have planed… I have some time on my hand’s and while my ride is in peaces now sounds like a good time to “personalize it” a little.
dude, did you even read the first post? It's his shopping list for mods.
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PC-III w/USB, Muzzys M14 + Carbon Oval + M10, BMC Race Filter, Flies Out, Buell Pegs, Heli Risers www.TucsonSportRiders.com - Tucson's Premier SportRider Community
posted July 08, 2008 02:38 PM
shoe laces can work pretty good on springs like that, i have used that trick on tough exhaust springs before
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
posted July 08, 2008 03:12 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 8 Jul 2008 16:15
Another long day at work, and another minor update.
Obviously I need to change the gearing for drag racing. It was recommended that I try 16/42 or 16/43. Stock is 17/41.
Here is the stock, heavy rear sprocket:
I ordered 42 and 43 tooth lightweight Renthal sprockets for the rear:
I decided to install the 42 tooth to start:
The countershaft sprocket is still on order. I hope to get some more parts in the mail tomorrow and get a few significant things accomplished and more photos posted.
posted July 09, 2008 09:51 AM
Edited By: shane661 on 9 Jul 2008 13:45
I got up this morning planning to tackle a few of the more significant items on the list. Lowering the bike and properly installing the extensions seemed like a good place to start. Here are the threaded adjustment links and spacers from Spencer Cycle:
The spacers are needed because the stock links have an odd, curved design:
Before removing the links the bike will need proper support. I have a Condor wheel check at the front, which means the bike will not fall to the side. I put the rear on a racing stand, and finally, I support the shock with a torpedo jack:
With the the jack in place you can simply raise and lower the bike to get the proper height. I took a baseline measurement of the bike, knowing that I wanted a net change of about 1.5"+ taking into account wheelbase and tire height differences:
After taking the measurement, I was ready to change the links:
The new links went on without a hitch. I didn't go quite as low as I had planned, as I am concerned about some clearance issues:
Where I ended up should give me about 1.75" lower overall at the rear:
Next I moved on to the swingarm extensions.These are well made, and from Spencer Cycle. We run these on Racheal's Gixxer, with great results. I also like that they don't have engraved logo's or added "bling":
When I installed them I marked the bolts with a Sharpie. That way I can quickly at a glance see if they have moved:
Finally, the finished product:
I had planned to lower the forks in the triples this morning. But I have an hour into trying to peel the inspection sticker off of the fork leg, so far. I decided to tackle that project when I have a little more patience.
posted July 09, 2008 09:59 AM
great pics dude!
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2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
quote:shoe laces can work pretty good on springs like that, i have used that trick on tough exhaust springs before
This may sound dumb...but how do you use the shoelaces?
put a loop thru the spring, and wrap the rest of it around your hand. you would be suprised at how easy it is to pull the spring in a straight line compared to trying to push it sideways with a set of needle nosed pliers. a young guy running MX showed me that.
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
posted July 09, 2008 03:14 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 9 Jul 2008 16:16
I finally was able to install the M14 exhaust. I had the pipe on the bike last week, but I could not get one of the pipes to seal using the old gaskets. With the help of a Bikeland member, I was able to locate a couple of sets of gaskets from Schnitz. They sell them 4 to a pack:
Here you can see why I had problems. Look at how much the old gaskets were compressed:
Gaskets placed in the head (I used a dab of grease to hold them in place):
It took a few tries, gradually tightening to header bolts, to get a good seal. My biggest advice to anyone doing this job is to take your time. If you get frustrated, come back to it later. Here are some pictures showing how nice the fit is, and the excellent ground clearance:
It came out pretty nice. Here is a quick video so you can get an idea of the way it sounds:
posted July 09, 2008 03:22 PM
Final item installed for today, the fender eliminator. I like this one because it was cheap ($27 shipped, off ebay) and because it allows you some fore and aft movement of the bracket to accomodate extra wheelbase:
One note, it doesn't have provision for a tag light. So if that is an issue for you or your state inspection, you might not want this one.
posted July 10, 2008 02:00 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 10 Jul 2008 17:24
Today was a mixed bag. I really wasn't able to complete any part of the project. I worked on the chain/sprocket/wheelbase modifications. Several items came up and I had to spend some time re-thinking my setup.
The first thing I started with was removing the stock chain. The chain is endless, and I did not want to remove the swingarm. So that means that I would have to remove a link. I had only done this once before, and that was several years ago. When I tried to get the first link out, I had some trouble and I damaged an adjacent link removing the plate. So, I decided to practice on that one:
What I did was grind the head of the two rivets off with a dremel tool, as you can see. Then I used this Motion Pro tool to press the rivets out:
After that was done, I needed to make a decision on which chain I would install. I have a 530VM and a DRZ2 chain here. The DRZ2 is a non o-ring type chain. I really wanted to stick with an o-ring chain since I will be street riding and prefer less maintenance.
I called Doug Ray at Spencer Cycles, and he said that he would run the DRZ2 since it is stronger. I decided to compare the two:
After seeing the size difference, I knew I wanted to go with the DRZ2. It will take more maintenance, but the reward is strength and less friction. If you have ever compared the two types of chains, you know what I mean. O-ring chains have a lot of friction, especially when cold.
The final issue I confronted was one of wheelbase. There is a welded-on bracket on the swingarm right where it can rub the tire if you are running around 62". I don't want to cut the bracket off of the arm. I might upgrade to a different arm this winter, and I'd like to keep the stock one intact. I decided to move the tire back an inch to gain some clearance:
I still need to have my Shinko mounted and decide on gearing before I cut and install the new chain.
Here is the way it looks now, plenty of work remaining:
I am hoping to have the bike ready to race at Jason Millers seminar on the 18th. It's going to be close.
posted July 10, 2008 04:13 PM
Thanks for the pics and info Shane. Great pics of the exhaust, and it looks real nice. Keep up the good work! ____________
I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
posted July 10, 2008 04:31 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 10 Jul 2008 17:33
I certainly appreciate the comments. Sometimes it seems like it is nearly as much work on the camera/computer as it is on the bike! Hopefully this thread will be of benefit to a few people down the line.
posted July 11, 2008 03:53 PM
Edited By: shane661 on 11 Jul 2008 16:55
I started out this morning by shortening and installing the DRZ2 chain. This was my first time installing a clip-type link. Everything seemed to go well. In the picture I can see a scrape on the tip of the clip, I might replace it before the track:
Then I moved on to the rear brake line. When they say +6", they mean it. It is just enough to clear the swingarm extensions:
Brake side complete (except for bleeding):
Chain side complete (except for chain guard and master-clip replacement):
I also took the time to install the larger rear sprocket. My gearing will be 16/43 and I will be sitting a bit over 63". I may switch back to the 42T rear depending on what I experience at the track.
posted July 11, 2008 04:41 PM
wow this is great information and pics. even for someone like me who only rides on the road...thanks
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