Shane661
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posted February 11, 2009 02:26 PM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 11 Feb 2009 22:27
The arm is real nice. The only thing I don't like on it is that they elongate the tubing on the brace in one of the corners. Sort of squash it in the bend on purpose to make clearance for exhaust systems. On a turbo (or with some exhausts), I would specify not to flatten the tubing in that spot:
It may not make much of a difference, but that's just the way I would order it, if I were to do it again. I'd rather ding the exhaust pipe to make clearance.
Shane
  
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Shane661
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posted February 11, 2009 02:29 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 11 Feb 2009 22:29
quote:
Does your new axle work for ya? long enough?
The axle is exactly as I specified. I need to get my axle blocks modified a little (as planned). Then it should work perfectly.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 11, 2009 02:46 PM
Personally I wouldn't worry about the master cylinder specs...since the rotor is smaller and all now. Might sound simple of me to say this, but it really is only the back brake. The fronts are the important ones imo...
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Shane661
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posted February 11, 2009 02:49 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 11 Feb 2009 22:50
I'll probably just try the rear brake out. I use it primarily for braking on slippery sufaces at low speeds (in the gravel, dirt, or grass). I may be experimenting with a single front rotor, however.
The two tracks that I race at have long shutdown areas. I'm still undecided.
Shane
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 01:37 PM
After reading about Dubious' subframe project I started thinking about one myself. I took a look at the microfiche and saw that there were some parts that I probably didn't need. There are two frame supports for the passenger area; they bolt on. Since I will never be riding a passenger, I decided to remove them.
Here is one of them intact, stock configuration:
Now, removed:
And the other one, gone:
I also removed the helmet lock, and seat latch mechanism. Here's everything:
A grand total of 2 lbs. 7.7 oz. removed.
Let me stress that these are not mods for your street bike. It is unsafe to ride a passenger without those frame supports. Obviously you will need a seat latch to run the stock seat as well. When I mount the seat back on I am going to double check things, with safety in mind. It looks like it will be fine for the rider, though.
Shane
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 02:32 PM
The machine shop called; my 2.5mm thick aluminum spacer plates are done:
These should do the trick up front. I'll know 100% for certain when I mount up the front wheel tomorrow.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 02:46 PM
Edited By: dubious on 12 Feb 2009 22:47
Looks good.
Shane maybe I missed it, but what did you do with frt wheel alignment?
I was going to use the gsxr frt axle since there is no shoulder on the clutch side whereas the 14 axle has an outer fork shoulder. I then was going to use a spacer on the throttle side that would center the wheel and pull the gsxr axle into it.
I already had the gsxr forks, so to simplify I ended up doing the entire GSXR front end as you know.
You will likely find your rear sproket needs a spacer too.
It would be good to know what you find out to confirm my spacing of the back sproket.
2 heads are better than 1!
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 02:49 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 12 Feb 2009 22:52
I have made two front wheel spacers using 2 rear oem brake side spacers (they are several mm wider), and metric shim washers from McMaster Carr. I will have more pictures and details when I confirm everything tomorrow.
My prior spacing measurements were done with a tire on the wheel; I want to re-measure and verfiy/adjust if needed.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 02:55 PM
Thats sounds right.
I thought I had used one of the stock spacers from the rear but couldn't remember which one.
If I recollect what I had done almost a year ago, it was ~4mm more each side for mine with the zx14 forks.
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 02:58 PM
What I want to verify tomorrow is whether the oem setup is centered in the forks. My prior measurements indicated that it may not be.
It is very hard to get +/- .5 mm accuracy with the measuring instruments at my disposal.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 03:02 PM
I would almost guarantee if its out of center from the steering post by ~1mm or less, its due to manufacturing tolerances, fork flex-truness, fork height, preload etc.
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 03:05 PM
Yes, I don't think .5-1mm is going to be huge either way. As long as I know where everything sits, front and rear, I am going to be ok with it.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 03:05 PM
Edited By: dubious on 12 Feb 2009 23:08
If you want more space back there for other components, get rid of the rear brake resevoir.
The 2stroke road racers, and many drag racers I have seen use a bolt in the end of the hose, with a zip tie, and another to hold the hose vertical.
I like the busa and gsxr resevoirs, make a small hanger off the subframe and mount a sealed one of those right beside the master cyl.
Thats what I was going to do, until i saw the billet and decided I had to have one.
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 03:11 PM
I was looking pretty hard at the reservoir; a lot of hose there. 
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 03:18 PM
Edited By: dubious on 12 Feb 2009 23:19
Its unnecessarilly long and the resevoir is mounted in a stupid place.
When you go to bleed / flush your brakes, if you spill fluid -even a little bit, its so viscous it will run down the inner fender and subframe, and underside of all the wires...
don't ask but trust me, its a PITA cleaning that stuff up with all the wires and crap laying around there... it likes to eat paint, plastic and wire insulation so i was almost panicking to get it cleaned up.
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Shane661
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posted February 13, 2009 07:54 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 13 Feb 2009 16:30
GOALS.
Nobody has ever accused me of being highly motivated. In fact, I am more of the "aggressive self-stopper" type. Sometimes a good tool to motivate me is to set a lofty, yet achievable, goal. With that in mind, I've decided to set some goals for 2009. These goals have been kicking around in my head since the end of last season.
It's tempting to set some easy goals, knowing that I can simply coast and make the finish line. But I am going to resist that temptation. It is hard to pick a good set of numbers. I was going to make two sets of goals...one for naturally aspirated and the other for with nitrous. But I've decided to go with one set of overall goals. Two numbers, one for the 1/4 mile and one for LSR. Both should present a formidable challenge.
2008 Performance Numbers:
---------------------------------------
1/4 Mile ET: 9.30 Seconds
1 Mile Top Speed: 190.76 MPH
2009 Performance Goals:
-----------------------------------
1/4 Mile ET: 8.75 Seconds
1 Mile Top Speed: 205 MPH
Wow! That should get me focused. Fortunately my 2008 numbers were acheived without the nitrous.
If you have been following this thread, you know that I have made some efforts to shave weight from the bike. The reasoning is that the bike accelerates more quickly with less mass to move. Even in the mile, this is of benefit. While ultimate top speed is a measure of hp vs. aerodynamics...the mile presents the additional challenge of a very limited distance in which to achieve top speed.
About 14 months ago I weighed very near 240 lbs.. After taking a more active interest in my health and well-being I dropped down to 203.5 lbs. by the end of last racing season. My "plan" was to lose more weight during the off-season. Well, a couple of hams and turkeys later, this is where I stand:
No, that's not a GPS reading in MPH....it is how fat I am!
There is no way that I will reach my goals at this weight. Not only am I going to be an anchor for the bike, but I won't be able to tuck well. My leathers are large and tend to flap in the wind at top speed, robbing me of mph. So, I am setting another goal, this one for reducing MY mass. This goal would be nothing without a useful timeline...especially since I am already behind the curve time-wise.
2009 Racing Weight Goals
-------------------------------------
2/13/09 Weight: 211.9 lbs.
3/13/09 Weight: 203.9 lbs.
4/13/09 Weight: 196.0 lbs.
5/13/09 Weight: 190.0 lbs.
6/13/09 Weight: 185.0 lbs.
7/13/09 Weight: 180.0 lbs.
8/13/09 Weight: 175.0 lbs.
37 lbs. by August is my goal. I turn 40 this summer and it would be nice to roll back the clock a little to my 30 year-old weight. That's a nice goal that will leave me plenty of time left in the racing season.
Anyway, I guess I will soon be changing the name of this thread to "My ZX-14 Build AND Blog Thread".
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 13, 2009 08:52 AM
Edited By: dubious on 13 Feb 2009 16:53
Congrats on the weight loss so far!
DOOD!
6-1 and 175lbs?
You'll look anorexic!
I would be very surprised if you could acheive that weight in a healthy manner, by any date!
From the pics I saw of you online... you don't seem to have the bone structure or frame to suit that weight..
Maybe it was just the pics...
Many moons ago I was a fitness trainer...
Many moons ago bikes and weights was my life....
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Shane661
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posted February 13, 2009 08:58 AM
I won't be surprised if 180-185 is where I end up. Until then, I am setting my goal to where I was in my late 20's-early 30's. 6 years ago I got down to 173 lbs. (felt weak, crash diet) and 3 years back I was at 188...even while drinking 6+ beers a night.
I'm definitely not going to put the weight loss above my health.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 13, 2009 09:43 AM
Just looked at DME website ... lots of light serious drag race stuff there.
Have you considered the catalyst fuel tank? might be your next best investment for drag and LSR events.
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KZScott
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posted February 13, 2009 09:47 AM
Im 6-0 175 pounds. and i dont look anorexic. (i do work in construction so i dont need the gym ) I might have a smaller frame, but 180-185 should be a healthy weight for you Shane  no more junk food and up the cardio. dads goal is 230-235 for this yr. last summer i had him down to 240 from 260.
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
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dubious
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posted February 13, 2009 10:00 AM
DME will cut stock gsxr rotors and remove 9/10 th a pound each! :
their prices seem very reasonable!
http://www.dmeracing.com/content/photo_gallery.htm
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Shane661
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posted February 13, 2009 10:29 AM
That is pretty reasonable! My setup requires the Galfers now due to the shim spacers I had made. They won't work on the stock GSXR rotors due to the way the rotor is cut on the back of the carrier.
Shane
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Shane661
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posted February 13, 2009 02:55 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 13 Feb 2009 22:56
Man, I'm tired. Install, remove, measure...repeat. I'm sure I have swapped these front wheels 20 times by now. Not to mention the brakes and tires, making different sized spacers, etc.
I'm going with the short version here:
I needed wheel spacers. So I measured the distance of the stock spacers when installed in the stock wheel vs. the GSXR wheel. Like this:
I came up needing 9mm of additional spacer. I ordered two brake side rear wheel spacers (3mm wider than the fronts). I then added some shimming washers from McMaster Carr (1.5mm total each side):
Then I measured the rotor spacing width on each wheel. The GSXR was 5mm narrower, so I had two spacer shims made:
These went behind the rotors like so:
The increased spacing required longer shoulder bolts than the stock pieces. I got them from McMaster Carr:
These will not clear the inside of the fork leg on the brake side. A part of the casting will need machined off. Look closely and you can see it here:
I am not too concerned right now; I will be running one rotor for the time being, for testing.
Assembled with spacer:
Everything measured properly. It seems that the stock wheel may be offset a little towards the brake lever side. Regardless, that is where the GSXR wheel sits...just like the stocker.
Proper rotor clearance in the calipers:
It's just that easy:
All that is really left at this point is for me to machine the lower right fork leg for bolt clearance. I should also mention that the rotor shims will only work with aftermarket rotors. The stock GSXR carriers are not compatible with a round shim.
My weight savings with this mod, using both wave rotors, will amount to about 1.25 lb. compared to the stock 14 setup. The 14 rotors are lighter than the Galfers, and the heavier bolts and spacers will eat up some weight as well.
I'm almost done with the front now (thankfully). Is it worth it? Ummmm.......for me, yes...for you???
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 13, 2009 03:42 PM
Edited By: dubious on 13 Feb 2009 23:43
Shane
How tall are the heads on those bolts?
I might have ti bolts for you that are thinner.
How deep is the shoulder?
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Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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posted February 13, 2009 03:55 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 13 Feb 2009 23:56
quote:
Shane
How tall are the heads on those bolts?
I might have ti bolts for you that are thinner.
How deep is the shoulder?
10MM SHOULDER DIA, 12MM SHOULDER LENGTH, M8 THREAD
The heads are 7mm tall, vs. the 3mm of the stock pieces. A slightly shorter shoulder could be used, but it needs to be longer than the stock shoulder, which is 7mm.
Unfortunately, even a shorter head would likely still require clearancing the fork leg. The oem bolts only have about 1mm clearance since I added the aluminum shim plates under the rotor carriers.
Shane
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