Shane661
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posted December 12, 2008 06:10 PM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 13 Dec 2008 02:11
quote:
Ive been thinking of adding weight on my frontend, not taking it off. Ive made a bracket that bolts to the header, wieghs like 10lbs. Hardly noticable, unless your looking for it. Also im looking for a extra front axle to fill up with lead. If any1 has an extra i would love to buy it.
Rick, why not add some ballast to the front fender? Here is the underside of the fender from Racheal's Turbo Hayabusa:
The fender now weighs 10 pounds! The bike is stock wheelbase and the prior owner was able to run 8.8's@163-165 mph. It also has a lead-filled axle.
Shane
  
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KZScott
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posted December 12, 2008 06:42 PM
Ive heard tell of guys doing that, but Im just not sure if I would trust it. I have no doubt the wheel weights stick just fine if the fender is clean (they stay on wheels after all) but if you let out of a wheelie badly and come down hard(the kind that can take out oil pans ect), how tough is that plastic? what if it snaps and you run over half of it? I hid about 10 pounds of lead(with room for more) under the windscreen. kinda high but still quite forward. the rest of the ballast was bolted on the forks at the calipers and 2 pounds of lead melted into the axle
very nice looking CF fender, but its going to hurt areos because its smaller right? more air hits the rad and rest of the bike instead of being diverted??
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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Shane661
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posted December 12, 2008 06:45 PM
quote:
very nice looking CF fender, but its going to hurt areos because its smaller right? more air hits the rad and rest of the bike instead of being diverted??
I guess that is the big question, huh? Often what we "think" works....doesn't. We'll see at Maxton.
Shane
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KZScott
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posted December 12, 2008 07:23 PM
looking forward to test results. good luck. 
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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Shane661
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Posts: 11494
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posted December 16, 2008 04:11 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 17 Dec 2008 00:13
I got my shimming washers and bolts yesterday. I will be able to test fit everything for proper clearances. I could install everything using just the shim washers, but there are a couple of pieces that I want to get machined instead. The washers will afford me the chance to make sure that everything is spaced 100% correctly before I have the pieces made.
I also ordered some Galfer rotors for the wheels:
I have found that the carrier of the Galfer front rotor will make it easier to have a spacer plate fitted. Each rotor (front and rear) is also roughly .5 lb. lighter.
I will post further details about mounting soon. I need a day off in order to get to it.
Shane
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bawls
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posted December 16, 2008 08:36 PM
When you get everything figured put on the gsxr wheels let me know. I've been wanting a 12 and a 6 wheel... but gsxr wheels are cheaper and easier to come by so that would be a great option. I'll be watching this thread closely.
____________
Best 60ft: 1.42
Best 1/8th: 5.97
Best 1/8th MPH: 119
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Shane661
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posted December 26, 2008 09:13 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 26 Dec 2008 17:22
Well, I didn't meet my Christmas goal for getting the front wheel sorted. I am 95% there, though. I have some minor adjustments to make with .5mm shims and then I will be able to have spacers made:
There are a lot of little details to look at when making a swap like this. From non-symmetrical spacer sizes, to rotor spacing, to finding the proper bolts....and let's not forget machine work. On top of that, there are probably 100 different ways to do it, depending on your goals.
The rear wheel is my next project, and I have a plan formulated. Winter "blahs" and the holidays have me a step behind on the project, for sure. Today I'm cleaning in the garage, and I put the rear wheel in place in order to grab a motivational photo:
I'll be contacting some vendors next week, and moving full steam ahead.
Shane
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dubious
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posted December 26, 2008 10:05 AM
Shane,
I think using as much GSXR parts as possible is going to make life alot easier.
If you decide to machine your axle blocks, or go with a mac arm ( for only $100 more I got 1 gsxr and 1 zx14 axle, and appropriate axle bocks for each) . The only issue will be sprocket offset, and centering the wheel.
Even if you install zx14 sized wheel brgs, and axle, then a custom caliper block has to be machined, in addition to the wheel centering spacers, and sproket offset spacer.
If youdecide on the gsxr axle, and caliper bracket, I can help with that, and give you the dimensions of my spacers!
Happy Holidays!
Lyle
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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Posts: 11494
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posted December 26, 2008 10:11 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 26 Dec 2008 18:12
Yes, I plan to use the GSXR parts. I talked to Dave at Worldwide Bearings and he suggested that I stick with the GSXR bearings and axle. As you know, you have to think something like this through from 10 different angles!
Right now my intent is to use the GSXR axle and bearings, along with a caliper mount such as the Roaring Toyz part. Now I am in the process of considering swingarm options...all the way from simply machining my extensions, up to a full custom arm.
Shane
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Shane661
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Posts: 11494
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posted January 14, 2009 02:21 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Jan 2009 22:23
It's been a long time since any updates. I have a lot of things going, but unfortunately I am hitting snags left and right. Today I got several parts in, but only was able to install once item....the rest of the parts either need machining, or are not just what I was looking for.
I ordered some carbon heel gaurds to replace the stock items:
As supplied, the holes were too small for the bolts. I had to drill them out larger in order to mount them. Also, the laminate finish had some imperfections. Overall I am going to rate them a 7/10. These are the ones sold on Ebay by Slingshot Racing:
They came out OK, but I think the stock pieces are better made...if a little heavier. I will probably leave them on the bike as the minor imperfections are not really that apparent...and they look pretty decent.
Shane
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Shane661
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posted January 14, 2009 04:43 PM
Since I am not using a headlight, I have decided to mount my battery and some electronics at the front of the bike. This will put the weight in a better spot to counteract wheelies.
The added bracketry will weigh a couple of pounds. I am going to be using an Odyssey 310 battery. It weighs about 5 lbs. less than the stock unit. This way I won't gain any weight on the bike, even with the added battery box. Here is the battery:
You can see it is pretty small. It is a direct replacement for many 1000cc bikes.
There are no premade boxes for this. The next series of photos will show my cardboard mock-up. I also made the mounting plate wide so that it can accomodate electronics, in addition to the battery:
This is the sort of thing that is time consuming. After I have the final template made, I will add this part to the growing list of items that I need to make or have machined. In a week or so I will be making a trip to the machine shop and powder coater.
Shane
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Juice McGoose
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted January 14, 2009 06:03 PM
Shane, does another 14 rider use the 310 battery? It's 100 CCA. I like light but one thing I don't skimp on is batteries. The more power the better. I like this one:
http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/YTX14-BS.html
Same 200 CCA as the Odyssey PC535 but smaller (stock size) and one pound lighter.
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Shane661
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Posts: 11494
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posted January 14, 2009 06:10 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 15 Jan 2009 02:11
I would not suggest this battery for regular street usage. Remember, this is primarily a race application for me. That being said, here is some good information, and food for thought (from the Odyssey website):
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PC 310 Specs:
310 cranking amps for 5 seconds
250 cranking amps for 10 seconds
225 cranking amps for 20 seconds
200 cranking amps for 30 seconds
8 Ah
Short circuit current over 455A
9 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
CCA - 100
Length 5.43"
Width 3.39"
Height 3.98"
Weighs 5.9 lbs
Cold Cranking Amps: For all the power, durability, and life of our technology, the cca ratings can seem disapointing. That's because the cca ratings are misunderstood. Odyssey batteries are SLI (starting, lighting and ignition), so if you are looking for a starting or reserve battery the cold cranking numbers can be irrelevant.
The "standard" cca test measures the output of a battery for 30 seconds of crank at 0 degrees with the ending voltage of the battery being 7.2v. Some companies use 15 or 20 seconds and some companies use 32 degrees which can make for better results.
A vehicles starter isn't designed to withstand 30 seconds of cranking so we feel the batteries starting power is more important. The Odyssey part numbers represent the 5 second cranking power of the battery.
----------------
I have read of the battery being used in larger displacement engines than 1000cc. Based on my reading, I am going to give it a try.
Shane
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Juice McGoose
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted January 14, 2009 06:16 PM
Cool, let us know how it works.
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BobC
Pro
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posted January 15, 2009 05:58 AM
About using weights on the front of the bike:
In the studio where I used to work the counter-balance weights for boom microphones were Tungsten. It has a specific gravity of 19600 kg/cu.m compared to lead at 11340 kg/cu.m, much denser. Wouldn't Tungsten be the material to use?
____________
Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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billeason
Zone Head
Posts: 711
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posted January 15, 2009 06:52 AM
battery
quote:
Shane, does another 14 rider use the 310 battery? It's 100 CCA. I like light but one thing I don't skimp on is batteries. The more power the better. I like this one:
http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/YTX14-BS.html
Same 200 CCA as the Odyssey PC535 but smaller (stock size) and one pound lighter.
Look a little closer on their page of all the batteries,They sell one thats the same size as stk but is HD it is 260 cca and has the double posts for running accesories . I bought two of them. I'll get the numbers off the batt later and post........Bill
____________
bill eason
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Shane661
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posted January 15, 2009 07:20 AM
quote:
About using weights on the front of the bike:
In the studio where I used to work the counter-balance weights for boom microphones were Tungsten. It has a specific gravity of 19600 kg/cu.m compared to lead at 11340 kg/cu.m, much denser. Wouldn't Tungsten be the material to use?
The idea of moving the battery and electronics is that it is re-distributing weight that is already there. It will add 8-12 of ballast, without increasing the weight of the bike. If you just add that much ballast, you are making the bike heavier.
Plus, Tungsten has a melting point 6192 °F...it would be tough to fill an axle with that. 
Shane
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KZScott
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posted January 15, 2009 06:34 PM
pfft tungsten, go all out and go for a solid axle made of depleted uranium lol
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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KSPZ3
Expert Class
Posts: 334
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posted January 18, 2009 08:42 PM
Shane,
Great thread - I have read about half and had a few questions for you. First on the windscreen - I noticed you are running double bubble - and I believe that you concluded that it ran faster than stock. I had concluded that stock was a bit faster. Who makes the one that you are using - It is clear correct? Do you in fact believe it is superior aerodynamically?
Next - do you like the catalyst seat - I had trouble tucking in tight with it - I have been using a custom Corbin - with a low profile - I also concluded it was fastest without the cowl attached.
What are you using for tires - I used the stock brand - but with race/street compound - seemed to work very well at both Maxton and Bonneville - I ran 45 at Maxton and 55 nitrogen at Bonneville.
What are you using for fuel - I ran MR9 and MR10 - I liked 10 the best - althoough I believe it is no longer available.
That is it for the moment.
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Shane661
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posted January 19, 2009 03:54 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 20 Jan 2009 01:05
Here are my runs from October:
10/25/2008 17:24 189.65925
10/26/2008 8:40 189.19005
10/26/2008 10:45 185.46414 (Stock windscreen, headwind)
10/26/2008 13:29 189.39837
10/26/2008 14:47 190.76122
On the 185 mph run it felt like the bike hit the wall for about the last 1/4 mile. I had a hard time getting below the stock screen and seeing around the gauges. Here are some comparison shots at speed:
Stock:
Double Bubble:
As to whether the screen is superior aerodynamically...well, for me, on that day, I feel that it was. When I improve my tuck and make some other changes, the stocker may be better. The screen is a Zero Gravity clear double bubble.
I like the Catalyst seat. I got myself situated up on the step early in each run.
I ran the stock tires, and 87 Octane pump gas. I was lean, at near 13.7:1 in the top of 6th gear on my 190 mph pass. Probably worse than that on the earlier runs in cooler temps.
Shane
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bawls
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re-learning to ride
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posted January 19, 2009 05:00 PM
Something that people don't realize about tungsten is that it's a VERY brittle metal. Drop a pouch of tungsten from a scaffold while tig welding and when you get to the ground to pick up your pouch it'll be shattered.
____________
Best 60ft: 1.42
Best 1/8th: 5.97
Best 1/8th MPH: 119
Brockland Police Badge # 001
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KSPZ3
Expert Class
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posted January 20, 2009 10:10 AM
So - So - Can I assume that you feel that the aero limit on run three - was a combination of the head wind and the stock screen - how stiff was the headwind - and do you recall what others where expereincing with MPH cahnge in the headwind as compared to other passes.
One other point - I concluded that up off the seat about an inch optimize top speed/aero - pinful position - but it seemed effective.
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Shane661
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posted January 20, 2009 11:04 AM
Yes, a combination of the headwind and lower screen.
Here are the conditions reported that morning:
10:18 AM 59.0 °F 46.4 °F 63% 30.05 in 10.0 miles North 5.8 mph - N/A Clear
11:01 AM 62.6 °F 48.2 °F 59% 30.05 in 10.0 miles NNE 3.5 mph - N/A Clear
My run was at 10:45 am. Maximum wind speeds that morning were in the neighborhood of 7 mph. As i recall, the wind was nearly a straight headwind, I had taken a picture of the flag on the timing tower.
Shane
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Shane661
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posted January 20, 2009 06:23 PM
I found the photo of the flag & tower...a pretty straight headwind:
Exciting, huh?
Shane
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masszx14
Pro
A mind beside itself!
Posts: 1806
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posted January 20, 2009 07:43 PM
Anybody using the Hotbodie's Radius screen? Its about 1" taller than the stocker and wondered if someone might have tried it at speeds. Everything from Hotbodies fits like garbage- I've read a ton of posts of guys complaining about their products. I still went ahead and bought one last summer. Curious about it's aerodanamics qualities.
____________
universal@mind
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