Tater
Expert Class
Shakin off the Haters
Posts: 212
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posted May 01, 2008 09:02 AM
Liquid Performance Racing antifreze
I was wondering is anyone using this type of antifreze, We just got a shipment in the shop. Is it even wort draing the coolant out and pouring this stuff in?
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ZX-14 06
Flies out
-1 front, +2 rear
2 Bros carbon fiber pipes
Tiger tail
Carbon fiber windscreen
64inch wheel base
lowering links
RC components wheels
  
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted May 01, 2008 10:37 AM
Never heard of it ... But these type of coolants are all about the same ....I have tried a few of them in my race cars and what happens is they take a little longer to warm up and cool down a little faster ... But they seem to reach the same temp as the factory coolant...
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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NOX
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
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posted May 01, 2008 01:48 PM
I have used water wetter, and purple ice, with the same results......
Main reason, is passing tech......., but does seem to cool down faster........
Less sticky mess when working on the motor too.........
I hate antifreeze......
I run water wetter in my 454 in my motor home, it helps........., temp wise.......
I dont think you would find any hp.....
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kawabunga
Expert Class
Cogswell Cogs Installed
Posts: 284
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posted May 01, 2008 04:49 PM
Look into the Evans NPG+ waterless coolant. I will reserve comments for argument sake. Just read their info and make an educated decision.
http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html
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bulldogprostock
Novice Class
Posts: 77
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posted May 01, 2008 05:14 PM
First we must dispel a common misconception: "Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your engine's bulk coolant temperature. So if you put it in your bike hoping to see lower operational coolant temp's, then you will probably be disappointed.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. This harks back to Smokey Yunick's theory of "soft combustion chambers". Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from you engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance bikes the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat. Just be sure to add anti-freeze in winter months if your storing the bike in a non-heated enviroment. Sorry I'm a geek Mechanical Engineer who designs cryogenic systems.
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2001 Busa, 2008 ZX14R, K6 GSX1000R
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