KawaBonzai
Zone Head
Leader of the Back.
Posts: 537
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posted April 21, 2008 04:28 PM
Synthetic oil for hot climates.
Ok, ok ... I did use the search button for keywords like oil, synthetic, castrol, alyisyn etc ...
Google treats this site as bikeland.org, so you can't specify site:www.zx-14.com since it's just a redirect. ugh.
So i have my first 500 mile service scheduled this Saturday, not enough time for me to have soem Alisys 0w-20 shipped. I heard that brand/weight was good for the ZX-14 and hot climates. (110+ here in a few months.)
So I journeyed over to CycleGear and they have ...
Castrol R4 5w-40 Full Synth.
MOBIL Mobil1 10w-40 MX4T Synthetic
MOTOREX Power 4T Synthetic 10w-50
REPSOL 4T Racing 10w-50
This is for street use, not track use.
I'm thinking the Castrol R4?
Anything I should stay away from?
... Bonzai
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PC-III w/USB, Muzzys M14 + Carbon Oval + M10, BMC Race Filter, Flies Out, Buell Pegs, Heli Risers
www.TucsonSportRiders.com - Tucson's Premier SportRider Community
   
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bulldogprostock
Novice Class
Posts: 77
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posted April 21, 2008 04:53 PM
I wouldn't recommend full synthetic at the 500 mile mark. The motor is still breaking in. I usually wait until 1500 min. I'll take this opportunity to throw my two cents in about Kawasaki's, oversite in my opinion, concerning a litle detail. I just did my 500 mile oil change and to my suprise the oil drain plug doesn't have a magnet to catch little things and maybe give a little insight into whats going on. I have a filter cutter to cut the filters apart and inspect the filter element. I did and everything looked good and I was pleased to see how little particulate there was. I'm a Royal Purple guy myself.
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2001 Busa, 2008 ZX14R, K6 GSX1000R
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johnnyrocketzx14
Expert Class
Posts: 207
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posted April 21, 2008 05:32 PM
i am curious myself, i have 3000mi on mine and wondered if full synthetic would make any more power. also if there was any issues with OEM clutch after such a change?? heard some guys blame the change on there clutch problems ( they were not zx14 guys, 1k bikes)
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07 ZX14
Brocks Sidewinder, Stretched, lowered, strapped,Drag seat, PCIII W/Hub, No flies, BMC, Speedo Healer, Muzzy NOS/Shifter,
1.41 60, 5.77 1/8th 8.89 1/4
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted April 21, 2008 05:41 PM
I ran Full Synthetic at 100 miles, I never burned up the fibers, the metals warped but after I had the right gearing the fibers had 100's of passes, I used Motul in the 14.
wee
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Bently
Needs a life
2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
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posted April 21, 2008 05:55 PM
I always put synthetic in at around 200 miles but then again I do the second thing your not suppose to do and use Mobil 1 car synthetic. Did it to my 14 and now the Busa has had mobil 1 since 145 miles and it just ran 9.36 and made the second most hp out of 3 08's on the dyno same day within 10 minutes of each other. Guy on one 08 yesterday burnt his clutch up in 2 passes with regular oil. But he rode the shit out of the clutch. My other buddy made 4 passes all within 15 minutes of each other with Mobil1 car oil and had no issues he made 20 passes total yesterday. A few times he made a pass then pulled back in stageing lanes and right back out on the track.
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted April 21, 2008 06:01 PM
I use 10 w30 mobil one car oil ..Changed it at 200 miles if i remember right .. over 200 passes on one set of clutches... Just like Bently i can hot lap my bike and never a problem ...
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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johnnyrocketzx14
Expert Class
Posts: 207
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posted April 21, 2008 06:03 PM
wheelie using 10w-40? 20w50? what for this Texas weather?
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07 ZX14
Brocks Sidewinder, Stretched, lowered, strapped,Drag seat, PCIII W/Hub, No flies, BMC, Speedo Healer, Muzzy NOS/Shifter,
1.41 60, 5.77 1/8th 8.89 1/4
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted April 21, 2008 06:03 PM
What weight Bently? I've been using Mobil 1 15-50 in my bikes for over 20 years.............great stuff and available just about anywhere. About $22.00 for a 5 quart jug at Wal Mart. 
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted April 21, 2008 06:08 PM
Johnny................Mobil 1 20-50 (motorcycle specific) and Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle oil are two of the finest oils EVER created. If your riding on the street, under different conditions and in hot weather...............there is nothing better. The Motul 300V comes in third and is also a great oil. Use any of them with confidence..........
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted April 21, 2008 06:09 PM
quote:
wheelie using 10w-40? 20w50? what for this Texas weather?
yes, 10-40 Mobil1 MX4T in my Busa.
wee
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted April 21, 2008 06:18 PM
quote:
quote:
wheelie using 10w-40? 20w50? what for this Texas weather?
yes, 10-40 Mobil1 MX4T in my Busa.
wee
Excellent choice................ ( not to thread jack but I bought a real nice 74 S3 400 triple the other day wheelie....... ) ( I'll get some pics up as soon as I can.........I think you'll like it )
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted April 21, 2008 06:24 PM
quote:
quote:
quote:
wheelie using 10w-40? 20w50? what for this Texas weather?
yes, 10-40 Mobil1 MX4T in my Busa.
wee
Excellent choice................ ( not to thread jack but I bought a real nice 74 S3 400 triple the other day wheelie....... ) ( I'll get some pics up as soon as I can.........I think you'll like it )
cool.
wee
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duncan
Expert Class
Posts: 341
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posted April 21, 2008 06:58 PM
10w-40 Redline here. this is a grade 5 ester base oil. mobile 1 is a grade 4 and is good but grade 5 is the highest grade available and it also has elevated levels of zink and phosphorious in it. very expensive though.
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted April 21, 2008 08:09 PM
I have read several "oil tests" that show Amsoil and Mobil 1 to be superior to Redline. (nitpicking here I would say..........all fine products......) The tests also said it could not be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection. Although this testing was done by Amsoil, it sure looks like a legit test of some good oils............here is a link.
Everyone form your own opinion............. It's pretty good reading.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
.
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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Bently
Needs a life
2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
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posted April 22, 2008 01:58 AM
I'm running the 0-30 warbird
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted April 22, 2008 03:42 AM
quote:
I'm running the 0-30 warbird
I bet that does free up a few hp............. 
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted April 22, 2008 06:29 AM
 Edited By: BobC on 22 Apr 2008 07:30
I have used 5W/40 fully synthetic Rock Oil since 1500 miles. I thought the engine should bed in properly with a mineral oil first.
I've had no problems at all with it, the bikes still on it's original clutch at 4000 miles and that's with plenty of competition use. It's not been sprinted in temperatures much above 30 degrees Celsius though.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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Sticks_n_Stones
Needs a job
Posts: 3930
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posted April 22, 2008 06:40 AM
Copy and pasted from the "Running Hot" thread!
Oil: probably the most argued about issue, with the most divergent opinions, in the motorcycling and automotive world. Hell, the manufacturers cant even agree!
Here's what Wikipedia says (there description is the simplest, though the web is full of divergent views):
""The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include:
Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance
Better chemical & shear stability
Decreased evaporative loss
Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems
Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
Disadvantages
The disadvantages of synthetic motor oils include:
Initial costs are usually four times greater than petroleum-based oils, though at one time, man-made oils cost ten times more than petroleum[citation needed]. Initial costs are often mitigated by extended change intervals, which individuals may confirm through used oil analysis (UOA).
The lower friction may make them unsuitable for break-in (i.e. the initial run-in period of the vehicle) where friction is desirable to cause wear. As many vehicles now use synthetic oils as factory fill, this is less of an issue than it once was.
Potential decomposition problems in certain chemical environments (industrial use dominantly)
Potential stress cracking of plastic components like POM (polyoxymethylene) in the presence of PAOs (polyalphaolefins).
Potential on some older pushrod race engines with roller lifters for the roller itself not to spin with camshaft movement, but rather slide while the roller itself remains either stationary or at a lower circumferential speed than that of the camshaft lobe.
In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular oil. In their article, they noted that "Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service - stop-and-go city driving." According to their study, synthetic oil is "worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures." This research was criticized by some because most engine damage appears to be caused by cold starts, and their research method may not have included enough cold starts to be representative of personal vehicle use.
Semi-synthetic oil
Semi-synthetic oils (also called 'synthetic blends') are blends of mineral oil with no more than 30% synthetic oil. Designed to have many of the benefits of synthetic oil without matching the cost of pure oil. MOTUL introduced the first semi-synthetic motor oil in 1966.""
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The benefits to you and I are: lower viscosity. Period. Unless you actually plan on changing your oil at twice the recommended miles ( I can see you all cringing now). The lower viscosity without sacrificing the superior shear strength of a higher viscosity conventional oil means you are freeing up horsepower robbed through frictional losses. It can make a very noticeable difference, on the dyno, track, and even seat of the pants.
Unlike a standard conventional low viscosity oil, synthetic oil also has the unique ability to maintain is viscosity longer. Hence the extended oil change intervals. That is due to the long strings of hydrocarbons that synthetic oil is made up of. Those 'long strings' are responcible for the superior lubricating abilities of synthetic, and as the oil degrades those strings are eventually broken up into smaller and smaller pieces, reducing viscosity and eventually increasing friction. Friction is bad. Regular petroleum based oils have those same strings of hydrocarbons, but there lengths are not uniform in length at all. Which means an undue amount of pressure is being exerted on the limited amount of long strings causing its viscosity to break down prematurely compared to synthetics.
Synthetics also have complete control of all elements, where petroleum based lubricants, no matter how well made, still contain some contaminants such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons that are responsible for sludge buildup and other oxidation issues. The strides oil companies have made in the last 20 years, however, is truly amazing and that issue of contaminants is no longer a viable argument against them, however. The old timers will tell you there horror stories about sludge and varnish, but even the cheap ass oil of now is better than the best oil from the early nineties! And the highest quality oils of today are equal to or better than synthetics of the same era.
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Here is a excerpt from NASCAR:
"Ever wonder about synthetic oil and how it compares to petroleum based oil? Well, the word "synthetic" means it's made with a combination of chemicals, so synthetic oil is "designed" while crude oil is "refined."
Synthetic oil contains a uniform molecular construction that's created to perform consistently under the harshest circumstances. It also starts out contaminant free, which is impossible for traditional petroleum based oils.
Starting the engine is tough on all of the internal parts, which is why many people appreciate synthetic oil's adhering quality. Even after the car stops, there is a film left to coat the engine parts, protecting them during the next start up.
Finally, because synthetic oil doesn't break down, it doesn't have to be changed as often. Certain manufacturers claim oil change intervals as high as 25,000 miles, justifying synthetic oil's high price for some motorists.
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One last thought: Some oil companies consider the term "Synthetic" to apply to regular oil that has simply been through a different or more complex refining process. Since it is completely up to the oil manufacturer to decide what is "Synthetic" and what isn't, dont rely on the label. A good indication of mislabeling is when the back of the bottle of oil says to follow the manufacturers oil change interval, or simply says "3 months or 3000 miles".
Pennzoil and Castrol are the two worst offenders of misslabeling I've seen or read about on this subject. Stear clear of there synthetics IMO!
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
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