HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted February 13, 2007 05:52 PM
 Edited By: HiMile14 on 13 Feb 2007 18:02
Brake Pad & Fork Oil Change
Good Day all,
I wanted to pass on how changing the Fork Oil and Brake Pads went. I've been breaking my rule to change out the Fork oil every 10K so it was due...Over due. My hope is to encourage more people to do this chore (I'm going to try to walk you through it) makes one hell of a difference in the handling department.
There are tools to make this job easy, however I'm a bit old school (and cheap) so for those who can afford these tools more power to ya.
Step One With the bike on the centerstand I put a jack under the pipes and pushed the front wheel up about 2 inches.
Break the top of the fork. Once the fork is loose it will be almost impossible...Note the Odo at 18,475 miles he-he would not be hi-mile without some reference.
Then break the 4 Hex head screws at the end of Fork. The Axial Hex bolt/Nut was removed by inserting 2 nuts into the Hex and the removed the socket. I bought (2) 14-17MM nuts and I'm unsure which ones worked. Might be better buying the tool if it's not too expensive.
Then I removed the fender 6 bolts and 3 push guides (for the brake lines) the fender will slide off.
Next remove the brakes, this is one of the best setup I've worked with very easy.
Then with everything off I pulled the axial and tire off. May I suggest having some axial grease around the axial was pretty dry. I try to lean the tire up against something that keeps pressure off the rotor.
Time to remove the forks there are (2) 10mm bolts 1/2 way up the fork that have to be broken
as shown.
it's a bit easier getting to them if you remove the horn plate 3 10mm bolts. Here is a pick with the plate removed
It will make more sense when you look at the horn, here it is tilted about 45 degrees.
Then remove the (2) hex head bolts around the top of the fork. Remove the handle bar and loosen the hex bolt that is underneath. Your fork is now ready to remove. Gently pull the fork out by twisting it should slide out.
Here the fork bolt about 3/4 removed....That's the dreaded seal that I'll bet someone here paid a dealer several hundred dollars to fix.
Once opened I carefully measure the oil I pour out, pumping the fork as I'm dumping out the oil.
I use a old baby bottle for measuring. The oil looks pretty good but trust me it's garbage. I replaced it with Honda 5 weight. I measured 15.25 oz. Cap the Fork and reverse the instructions.
A couple of Heads Up: One the ZX does not have a stop ring like Honda so you have to do your best to eye ball the fork level. I lock into position the first fork then put the tire and Axial on and double check the level, when you feel comfy with the level lock the second fork down.
The brakes were pretty easy to do. There are 4 pads that are the same size. A suggestion only remove one set of pads at a time. There is a guide tool at the top that keeps things aligned. In this pick you can see how I slowly replaced the bolt through the new pad and guide tool.
It's not difficult but it may take some time getting everything aligned.
Here is a picture of the new and old pads. The pads still had several thousand miles left but these puppies were chirping like mad. 
I put every thing back together including bleeding the brakes and cleaning out the fluid.
The total job took about 4 hours not bad for the first time. Please throw me any suggestions that will help me in the future, and I can get more detailed if you all have any question.
Oh Yea it looks as though my front tire is done.
Tires should not be shaped like the letter M, I gave 20K a shot looks like 18,500 is it.
Only one note, When applying the front brakes the rear lamp is slow to come on....again
Keep in mind I'm no shop guy, I just play one.
Robert
ZX-14 18,502 miles
VFR 87,471 miles
  
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Tool man
Needs a job
Posts: 4493
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posted February 13, 2007 08:21 PM
Hey Robert... I'm at 10,000 and I have been thinking it was about time to do just that.
What did the brake pads cost if you do not mind? I will end up paying whatever anyway it just might lessen the shock some 
____________
The banks are failing..
The banks are failing...
Invest in Ammo
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HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted February 14, 2007 02:23 AM
quote:
Hey Robert... I'm at 10,000 and I have been thinking it was about time to do just that.
What did the brake pads cost if you do not mind? I will end up paying whatever anyway it just might lessen the shock some
I paid 30 dollars for each set. I did not think it was out of line, I think I paid 28 each for the VFR's so no real shocker.
Here the break down, fork oil (2) 7.99 (Honda's little bottles), pads (2) were 29.99 and hex nuts 6.00 so I spent just about 80 dollars total
Rob
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tuusinii
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted February 14, 2007 03:44 AM
Hi!
Yes it's a very good habbit to change oil periodically - and not only when the seals start to leak. I'm doing mine before the summer. But I wouldn't bother measuring the upcoming oil - because You'll going to spill some anyway. And also You really shouldn't trust the amount on the service manual either - it's better to trust the level, because it differs what comes out. And if Your oil is old over 2 years You'll really going to feel the difference!
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HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted February 14, 2007 04:45 AM
quote:
Hi!
Yes it's a very good habit to change oil periodically - and not only when the seals start to leak. I'm doing mine before the summer. But I wouldn't bother measuring the upcoming oil - because You'll going to spill some anyway. And also You really shouldn't trust the amount on the service manual either - it's better to trust the level, because it differs what comes out. And if Your oil is old over 2 years You'll really going to feel the difference!
I could not have said it better, but when you post on the web there is going to be the perfectionist. I typically go 10-15,000 miles between changes, this is one chore that I fool myself into thinking things are fine and it's not. The handling is so much better that I may wait another week before I change out the tire.
I was also thinking I should have mentioned the need to have DOT4 fluid (for bleeding) and axial grease around. My axial was pretty dry and making noise when rolling, this could be the case for some of you all as well.
Rob
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Stalwart
Needs a job
Posts: 3360
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posted February 14, 2007 07:45 AM
GREAT post, thanks! 
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Stuart
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Ridin' the Trump train.
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lee
Novice Class
Dirt is fun too
Posts: 58
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posted February 14, 2007 11:41 AM
Thanks for the info HiMile.
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Tool man
Needs a job
Posts: 4493
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posted February 14, 2007 12:36 PM
Thanks Rob !! Another good season of riding to ya
____________
The banks are failing..
The banks are failing...
Invest in Ammo
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted February 14, 2007 04:49 PM
Great post, thanks for the info.
For my track bike I had GMD Computrack Racing revalve (gold) and respring my forks. And for what they charged, I have to assume they changed the dayum oil!
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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HiMile14
Expert Class
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posted February 15, 2007 04:39 AM
Thanks all.
The reason I'm posting this is because it's really not a difficult job, and the shop will charge you an arm and leg. The difference in the handling department is amazing. Most know about the brakes, he-he mine are humming along. Yep they are making this neat humming sound, I suspect break-in
Rob
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HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted February 19, 2007 05:31 AM
Is it normal for new brake pads to Humm ? The sound is similar to a car's brake rotor being tuned down. No damage and it does not do it when I ride above 60 degrees but in the mid 30's it sounds exactly like the machine that turns rotors of a car.
Performance since the new tire was installed is almost cat-like. This bike will turn on a dime.
Rob
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HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted May 21, 2007 01:39 PM
Edited By: HiMile14 on 21 May 2007 14:40
Repost for Phytrax. Fork Oil Change
Rob
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dubious
Needs a life
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posted May 22, 2007 10:45 AM
Edited By: dubious on 22 May 2007 11:59
May I interject?
sorry Rob,
I hate being a know it all....
you asked for input...
this o ring at the top of the forks rarely ever leak, when thye do its because the threads on the fork cap cut it... they are very sharp!
This is not the dreaded leaking seal everyone talks about.
Blown seals are the ones that are between the fork slide and outer tube!
Do enough wheelies and you will see!
An old motocross trick....
The service manual says 580ml for each fork leg for oil change,( not total disasssmbly)
Last summer I added an extra 20 ml, this raises the oil height.
This will not effect initial ride, but will prevent or reduce bottoming.
It made a noticable difference.
Proper springs are still a good investment, but this will help.
Additionally you can go to a heavier weight oil, thuis will increase the dampening, making the adjusters more effective. I found the damping curve to be soft even with the clickers cranked all the way in, thicker oil has the same effect as stiffer valve stacks, but is much cheaper.
This way I hope the clickers will be turned out, with room left to increase damping curves by cracking the clickers in.
I have serviced supensions many times, played with spring rates, tuned and revalved my own for motocross. Hope this helps the heavier or aggressive riders finding issue with the soft stock suspension.
Haven't done my 14 yet, she's gonna get it when the springs arrive.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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HiMile14
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted May 22, 2007 02:08 PM
D,
Sweet It's nice to know someone who knows the what's and why. I know I blew a ring and getting caught on a thread works for me. Rings are pretty cheap and the new replacement worked like a charm. I suspect time and age played a part, the VFR had about 70K when I replaced the seal and the Fork had been opened and closed at least 5 times so I'll take the heat for that.
Wheelies, both were done by accident, He-he but I appreciate the information. Should I consider moving to a thicker Oil? would there be any real benefit?
I try to replace the fork oil every 10K, keeps the handling sharp.
Thanks again a much respected Rob
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted May 22, 2007 09:36 PM
Edited By: dubious on 22 May 2007 22:41
Thicker oil will stiffen the ride through the entire range of travel. If you are heavy guy, it will help, but if your light the wheel will move less over bumps. That can be bad. If its too stiff the tire will not move through the stroke as easilly, and will actually skip off the bumps, rather than conform and keep the tire on the ground.
The last thing you want is a ride stiff enough it leaves the ground when leaned over mid corner. The ride can suffer.
It depends on the spring rates, rider weight, riding style and speed, and the condition of te road.
Personally, i prefer an active suspension, one that moves alot wihout bottoming. It keeps the tire planted better. Overly stiff dampening, or heavy weight oils can make a suspension feel dead if overdone.
i would check race tech or schnitz for recommended spring rates and install the correct ones first, then play with oil weight. if bottoming is still an issue, then incease oil height before going to heavier oil again.
bear in mind, heavy springs require stronger rebound damping curves to control the stronger spring when it extends.
Its all a fine balance.
If you feel like the suspension moves around too much, is too active, and the clickers are already cranked in, heavier weight oil will definatley cure that, and will allow you to slacken off the clickers, and bring them back into an adjustable range. heavier oil will not break down as quicly either. use synthetic, it lasts much longer.
Hope this helps...
now I just need to find out what weight oil kawi uses in it stock, so i know what weight oil to go when my springs arrive.
I will stay with the increased oil height i think.
It does a nice job of progressivly stiffening the ride, initial compression is still plush, but it firms up gradually through the entire suspension stroke, and helps reduce bottoming significantly.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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