posted November 06, 2006 08:20 AM
Clutch seems to fade during hard rides. ZX-14, 9500 miles. Bone stock, Fly's removed. Never overheats, always runs at 2 -3 segments.
I have my clutch lever set to the closest setting to the bar normally. At this closest setting my clutch engages and disengages about 1 1/2 " from the grip. Iv'e been noticing lately during longer rides usually after running for 20 min or more my clutch lever engages/disengages 1/2" away from my grip. Yesterday in the middle of an 1 1/2 hour run down the freeway I could barely get the clutch to engage to downshift. I only felt the clutch 1/2 " or less from the grip. Almost not enough to engage it. I didn't think at the time to spin the adjuster to put the lever farther out but this closer lever position has always been fine in the past.
This usually happens after running the bike up a few gears wide open.
The clutch pull tension feels the same just the position at which it engages changes.
It feels like the clutch cable just got longer or or out of adjustment or there's air in the hydraulic fluid.
The clutch reservoir is full.
The interesting thing is that the clutch will return to it's normal pull and position during the same ride a little later after cruising for awhile. It works fine then doesn't then works fine again during the same ride.
Is there an adjustment for the clutch?
Is there a bleeder for the hydraulic system for the clutch?
Do I need stronger springs?
Anyone out there find a shop manual for this bike cheaper than the $80 my dealer wants?
Looks like I'm gonna need one.
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If I'm not riding her, I'm dreaming about riding her! Mount up!
posted November 06, 2006 10:07 AM
Well for a cheap start you can shim your springs. If you wanted to get more invloved replace the clutch. Not real hard to do and 9500 is alot of miles...I wish i could get a clutch to last that long...
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
posted November 06, 2006 10:17 AM
I usually get 40K + easily on a clutch and I'm hard on the bike...but then again, I don't use the clutch all that often. I'm surprised however that after only 9500 miles, you're having clutch issues. Flatbou, you say 9500 miles is a lot, but bear in mind that not all of us are using this bike on the strip...so for normal street use, 9500 is very little for a clutch. In your case, that's probably beyond the useful life of a clutch, but not for street use, unless you're doing a lot of clutch wheelies.
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FYYFF!!!
posted November 06, 2006 02:06 PM
Sure sounds like your clutch needs to be bled.
If you pull the oil fill cap and check the action of the clutch disengagement when cold , and once again when the problem occurs you should see a change in the amount of travel in the clutch plates when working the clutch lever.
This would help pinpoint the prob and tell you if in fact the problem is due to the clutch having air in the lines .
If you get a chance stop on by and i'll have a look .
posted November 06, 2006 02:19 PM
Thanks bro,
It happenes then goes back to normal just as fast. It seems to happen when wfo up through the gears. Right now on my way to work everything was normal.
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If I'm not riding her, I'm dreaming about riding her! Mount up!
posted November 06, 2006 03:00 PM
Edited By: extremelean on 6 Nov 2006 15:01
clutch stack height can and will grow under severe usage...the type and weight of oil and the interval of changing will make this vary from machine to machine.
When the clutch grows it will take more lever throw to dis-engage , when it cools it shrinks thus returning the lever throw to about normal.
Not to say that you dont have air in your hydraulic system....just consider the possibilities.
quote:clutch stack height can and will grow under severe usage...the type and weight of oil and the interval of changing will make this vary from machine to machine.
When the clutch grows it will take more lever throw to dis-engage , when it cools it shrinks thus returning the lever throw to about normal.
Not to say that you dont have air in your hydraulic system....just consider the possibilities.
My problem is not that it takes more lever, it's that the lever engage point changes to so close to the grip that there's not enough throw to disengage the clutch. I think you're on to something here though. I am running hard when this happens and it does change back to normal when i'm cruising afterwards.
thanks
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If I'm not riding her, I'm dreaming about riding her! Mount up!
posted November 06, 2006 07:19 PM
Where is your friction point at when shifting is normal ?, is it close to the grip or near the beginning of the travel?
My friction point is near the beginning of the travel with the lever set at it's closest position.
____________ '06 Passion Red ZX-14
You must be riding with your finger on the clutch lever and riding the clutch not realizing it !!!
No I don't ride with my finger on the clutch but I do do a lot of WFO runs on the street/Highway. When I run up through the gears WFO I don't even use the clutch, I can't take my fingers off the grip to clutch it, the bikes pulling too hard.
Intimida2or -
The friction point is normally right at the start of the travel but all the sudden its way close to the grip almost too close to pull the clutch in, it weird, like I just lost about an inch or lever.
It's gotta be heat because it goes back to regular feel after crusing for a while.
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If I'm not riding her, I'm dreaming about riding her! Mount up!
quote:I would start with backing your lever away from the bar!
That's right..........turn it out a few clicks............if you have it in toward the bar already and the clutch gets a little hot, your lever will hit the bar before the clutch is disengaged all the way.........( not enough lever travel ) making for notchy shifting and possibly creeping forward while idling in gear at a stop. It's normal for your engagement point to change quite a bit during hot weather, city traffic with stop and go lights or aggressive riding. Like extreame said the type of oil and it's condition can play a role as to how long it takes for this to happen. Cable actuated cluches do the same thing and all bikes do this to some extent, on and off road. Ever see the front brake lever adjustment wheel some roadracers use? The cable goes from the front brake lever across the bars to the left hand side so they can adjust the lever in and out during the race. That adjustment changes during the race the same as your clutch lever does when you are riding. I think if you back that lever 3 clicks or so more away from the bar your problem will go away. Your clutch will still be doing the same thing while you are riding but with the increased lever travel you will have from backing it out you will not notice it. You will have more than enough travel to compensate for any clutch engagement change.............
posted November 08, 2006 11:48 AM
Thanks, very sound advice. I did just that. I was used to the clutch position being close but I can get used to any position. Like I said i don't use it at all WFO up through the gears.
Thanks guys I was hoping it wasn't any kind of failure starting to manifest itself.
Time to go back up to palomar mnt.and tear up the canyons.
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If I'm not riding her, I'm dreaming about riding her! Mount up!
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posted November 06, 2006 08:20 AM
posted November 06, 2006 10:07 AM
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