jnybbad
Novice Class
Posts: 79
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posted July 12, 2006 06:49 AM
Another thought on the secondary flies!!
Would it be possible to just remove the servo that controls the flies, but leave it plugged in so as not to disrupt the computer, and then secure the flies wide open? This way it could be put back to stock easier. I am not sure what it would take since my manuakl still hasn't arrived. Anyone tried this?
  
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TeamSpeed
Expert Class
Posts: 449
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posted July 12, 2006 07:03 AM
You might be better off buying a new servo, the current one, I believe is heavily attached to the shafts and it appears you do not want to bust anything on the throttle bodies, it is big bucks to fix anything you break on the TPS or secondaries.
Just find out the cost for a new servo, and find a place to stash it, then find a way to stick the flies open.
I expect somebody will find a way to attach right into the various ECU harnesses that won't throw codes, and give you tunability on how much you want these open from stock. Just a matter of time.
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 12, 2006 07:56 AM
Removing the flies is simple...takes a good long philips screwdriver and slow, even pressure on the screws to remove them. Why make it more complicated than it is...
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FYYFF!!!
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14black
Expert Class
Posts: 280
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posted July 12, 2006 08:26 AM
quote:
Removing the flies is simple...takes a good long philips screwdriver and slow, even pressure on the screws to remove them. Why make it more complicated than it is...
FBA, did you heat the screws before removing them?
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 12, 2006 08:57 AM
Naw...you don't need to, just use a good long shaft (12") screwdriver and apply good steady pressure...comes off in a snap! Goes on the same way too...
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FYYFF!!!
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 12, 2006 09:26 AM
+1
just make sure to use a wide tip phillips, #10 I think.
The servo can not be bought seperatly, its comes as an entire TB assembly, and is BIG $!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 12, 2006 09:29 AM
Oh...and a magnetic pickup tool, just in case a screw falls onto the primary plate and you can't get your hands in there...6 bucks for that tool...I didn't need it, but I had one on standby.
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FYYFF!!!
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iflyphi
Zone Head
Posts: 542
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posted July 12, 2006 09:29 AM
Anybody tried drag racing with the flies out?? Just wondering how the launch is. Gonna try and race mine again this weekend, flies in.
Last time out the track was too slick and had the stock tire, just spun all the way down the track, bouncing off the rev-limiter.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 12, 2006 03:54 PM
extended wheelbases without proper weight transfer will spin uncontrollably.
Have a friend video record you and make sure the rear squats, stays squated, and the front tire is skimming! What was the tire pressure?
I would reduce the preload, and increase rebound dampening, if its not squating, and feels like the tire is loosing contact.
If you already knew this... disregard! 
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted July 12, 2006 04:17 PM
 Edited By: speedgene on 12 Jul 2006 17:24
The main trick is to make sure you twist the screw at a 90 degree angle to the sub's plate shaft. The Sub's shaft will rotate with the slightest movement. Somehow, lock down the Sub's 6mm nut; located on the left side of the throttle body. If you let the Sub-shaft rock; this is when the Phillips screwdriver tip walks out (moving out-of-square to the tip and screw recess) of the slot, immediately ruining the head of the screw. There is no heat involved if you have a fairly new Phillips #2 tip. Distort the soft "X" screwdriver's slot of the plate's screw, and you're basically "Screwed!" Work slow, and load up on the screw tip. Don't all of a sudden start to turn on the handle. Load the shaft of the screwdriver is what you want to do. Place (pressure onto) the screw head. You could take an old Phillips screwdriver, heat the tip cherry red, and let the heat pass thru the screw? Wait a half minute, then take the good #2 (not a #1!!!) tip to see if it took that much time to soften the blue locking agent? I don't know if I like a hot blowing heat gun cooking the rubber velocity stacks (as well as)... trying to isolate a small object like a screw? Like FBA says, use only a screwdriver until you're stuck with a problem screw that won't come out. Heat is your second option before the duck-bills are your last resort. You need to take a vacuum cleaner to the port holes. Do not touch the Main throttle plates. Once you vacuum the locker powder, then do you open the throttle, and vacuum the remaining debris at the bottom of the valves. Use a drain hose and vacuum down deep; closing off the intake of the vacuum to increase the pull thru the tube. Let a little chunk squish between the seat and valve face, and you'll create a leak that will snowball into something you don't want to hear about.
Team, there is no part number to buy an extra "servo." The subthrottle valve actuator (servo) not only needs the shaft thru the actuator, but you need to move the Sub's TPS as well, or it's code spitting time. As far as the backyard fix for the sub valve issue?... remove the subthrottle plates and avoid taking off anything else on the throttle body. Tuning a little fuel down below with a Pcom would be your next option. Those who removed the sub plates first thing, then rode around without any research to view the changed (fuel) drivability... have yet to report some sort of engine damage directly related to said removal of the plates?
Thanks to the efforts of the Bikeland/Brock findings, the personal (Brock's) 14 mule used for the tests did not burn down or hurt the engine under their dyno tests. There was no (engine damage) mentioned in the article, therefore I assume all is well?
If you leave the bike stock, and only remove the plates, you will have the response of a dog on a leash pulling you to the next tree to sniff. Feed a little Pcom fuel to it and it might settle down? Personally, the abruptness is mild and very ride-able. I don't know what the problem is about the bike not being "ride-able" without the subs?
I will have a bore scope within the week(?) to view cylinder wall damage, which IMO, I don't expect to see anything visible? If I can use the quote from Brock on another thread: "That's like saying every fuel injected stock bike ever sold is mapped incorrectly from the factory- BullS*it." I have no complaints, and no damage to report. No aftermarket parts (engine wise) are used on my bike.
The heck if I can fell a lean spot with the plates out?... especially in the wide 2 to 3K ranges? Nothing wrong with my "TT"?
I flagged down a rider, and asked if he would follow me while I tried a few throttle lifts and accels'. He reported no oil puffs for me. I cannot smell any (aluminum) engine burn thru the oil cap? I've tried to burn my bike down without the plates in. She's running. What can I tell ya? I took it upon myself that the confidence to run subless is based on the IAP. In theory, the IAP is my Pcom. I kind of knew the ECU parameters were not about to melt down to a piston scoring lean condition. Approx. 200 miles of subless canyon downhill lean closed throttle, WOT in so many gears, sustained deliberate 3,200 5th gear cursing; should have reared it's ugly head within that range?
This is where my Pcom purchase went to. I will have a short follow-up report http://www.provision100.com/products_b.html
Footnote: The sub plates were reinstalled. Why? Because she runs so sweet bone stock, I just wanted to prove to myself my theory would not hurt the engine. I doubt I need the bore scope, but I like to see how my vaginal walls look like anyway?
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E-tard
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