fastestbusaaround

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posted May 31, 2006 07:39 PM
well...my 10r brock/hindle pipe runs cold....can put my hand on it 60 seconds after engine off...that's why I was wondering..
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dubious

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posted May 31, 2006 07:40 PM
whoops, forgot to say that EPA mandates cause the manufacturers to sell lean (A/F) machines, in which case a severly lean engine, remapped to match a pipe might run cooler.
Pipes making more HP mapped right "generally" create more heat, for the cooling system as the combustion chamber is seeing more heat!
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dubious

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posted May 31, 2006 07:42 PM
The exhaust runs cooler afterwards because less backpressure, lighter material better dissipating properties, if you were comparing radiator temps, probably would have seen slight increase( guage or temp gun)
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fastestbusaaround

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posted May 31, 2006 07:55 PM
Ahhhh soooo....now one more thing....I tried using water wetter in my 10r (say it 10 times fast ). No real difference from what I can see...what about changing the coolant mix to 30/70 distilled water /coolant with (say it 10 times fast now) water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter water wetter ??
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bugsey

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posted May 31, 2006 10:14 PM
quote: well...my 10r brock/hindle pipe runs cold....can put my hand on it 60 seconds after engine off...that's why I was wondering..
don't forget you don't have cats in aftermarket pipes.
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Hannula
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posted May 31, 2006 11:46 PM
Edited By: Hannula on 1 Jun 2006 00:47
> It's about 87 here today, just rode on the highway, from my office to my home (7 minute ride) at about 75MPH....damn that thing blasts a lot of heat on me while riding; right on the lower part of my legs...
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> find all of this bizarre.. still maintain the ones we rode didnt do that..
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Just guessing... the problem could be somehow related to what your're wearing when you ride... I've never had any heat problems with my 14, never ridden without my leathers, any bike.
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ZREXER

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posted June 01, 2006 12:08 AM
quote: well...my 10r brock/hindle pipe runs cold....can put my hand on it 60 seconds after engine off...that's why I was wondering..
Are the headers single wall on the '14? After market are for sure, so it makes sense they would cool down quicker - displace the heat quicker. I have heard that after market headers cause more heat, that is why Muzzy has the aluminum fan blade for your radiator as single wall headers throw more heat and can cause the stock plastic fan blade to warp. So I am told, no first hand experience on this.
The mufflers on my '14, stay hot for a long time. Got back from a ride, went inside to throw some shorts on while I lubed my chain and burned my knee fully 15 minutes after shutting the bike down. The stock canisters run very hot due to the cats in them. If the bike is running rich as they say, the cats will be running hot.
I know guys running after market turbos on their cars will quickly cook their cats as when they first get into the throttle, the engine runs rich(puff of black smoke out the exhaust) (over size injectors) for a few milla seconds before the turbo fully spools up. That big blast of rich fuel hits a hot cat and the cat temperatures go through the roof. The cats normally fall apart after a number of cycles like this.
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 01:51 AM
quote: > It's about 87 here today, just rode on the highway, from my office to my home (7 minute ride) at about 75MPH....damn that thing blasts a lot of heat on me while riding; right on the lower part of my legs...
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> find all of this bizarre.. still maintain the ones we rode didnt do that..
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Just guessing... the problem could be somehow related to what your're wearing when you ride... I've never had any heat problems with my 14, never ridden without my leathers, any bike.
If I wear leathers and boots, heat is minimal. I don't usually wear leather lowers in hotter temps though and boots come on one only when it's something over a 1 hour ride...
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Y2KZX12R

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posted June 01, 2006 04:11 AM
As far as damaging a quality stainless steel header with fiberglass wrap? I have had the header on my 12r wrapped for 6 years and the wrap and header are like new, except that I live on a 1/2 mile dirt road so the bike sees 1 mile of dirt road every time it gets ridden, and the small rocks come up and hit it on the bottom of the pipe and damage the wrap. Its still ok and staying on the pipe thou, mainly due to the stainless safety wire I always use to keep the wrap tight.


The wrap does increase torque and HP because it helps promote better scavenging. Your only talking a few ft lbs of torque and a few HP but....
I wouldnt recomend wrapping a titanium pipe thou. Titanium cant take the heat like a good stainless steel.
another thing is you will get a little more heat discoloration back further in the pipe becasue the temps are higher further back. The Can will get hotter also, so I dont know if wrapping a bike with a carbon Can is a good idea. People have started to melt carbon cans on dynos without wrapping the header, so I would be carefull with that.
It does cut down on the heat in the engine area big time. Makes a huge difference in the hot summer riding. I have a stock fan on this 1375, with 70/30 water/antifreeze with 4 oz water wetter and the guage always stays at 8:00 position. It was the same when it was 1199cc.
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zx61114
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posted June 01, 2006 04:51 AM
One caution with wrapping the pipes. Maybe it's a Florida thing but I find the pipes will rust quicker than un-wrapped. I would guess the pipes that should last a lifetime in Florida will start rusting after a couple years and need to be replaced after 5-7 years. Keep in mind my talking comes from a 1981 KZ-1000, metals should be better today, but just a heads up.
Rob
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zerMATT

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posted June 01, 2006 05:06 AM
quote: One caution with wrapping the pipes. Maybe it's a Florida thing but I find the pipes will rust quicker than un-wrapped. I would guess the pipes that should last a lifetime in Florida will start rusting after a couple years and need to be replaced after 5-7 years. Keep in mind my talking comes from a 1981 KZ-1000, metals should be better today, but just a heads up.
Rob
Good point. Wrap holds moisture and promotes corrosion. Pretty darn humid in FL, that wrap probably stays a little most all the time... not to mention the salt air.
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 05:25 AM
I would live with the heat, for a LOW END RPM FIX!
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Bently
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posted June 01, 2006 07:17 AM
Anything above 75 and my 14 puts off more heat then any bike I've ever had including my FJR. Comes right up and out the top of the left side fairing. don't really bother me but it is hot
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 07:28 AM
I had the 04 FJR, you're right...this puppy does put out more heat, while riding at speeds too...
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zerMATT

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posted June 01, 2006 08:16 AM
And nobody believed me when I posted about this heat problem over a month ago
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 08:27 AM
I did...but it took me a few more days to really feel what you dudes in the south feel in that extreme heat...
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Y2KZX12R

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posted June 01, 2006 08:57 AM
Yea salt would be a problem. But moisture would be 100% every time you rode the bike for 15 min or so. That pipe and wrap would dry out very fast.
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serius blk

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posted June 01, 2006 09:18 AM
I had no problem with rusting or moisture. The wrap does drying very fast. It can also be painted black. I felt a difference when i had it on my xx. You can grab the pipes while its running with the wrap. It cuts down on the heat alot. If after a while you dont like. You can always cut it off. I had no problems with it.
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Y2KZX12R

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posted June 01, 2006 11:09 AM
I had it on my CBRXX as well for 4 years also. If the pipe maker uses cheep low grade stainless then i could see a problem.
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Stalwart

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posted June 01, 2006 12:32 PM
It could cause a problem with the more common 304 stainless that is often used. 304 has good corrosion resistance at lower temperatures but 316L provides much superior corrosion resistance at high temperatures.
Back to the thread subject of heat:
What a bunch of whiners, your bike is propelled by a HEAT ENGINE. You can't get 200 hp out of one without making LOTS of heat! Approximately 70% of the fuel burned in your engine goes out as heat from the 3 types of radiation from the engine. I think Kaw did a fine job of directing as much heat away from the rider without going to ridiculous lengths. This bike heats me less than any other 1000cc+ bike I've ever ridden and that includes my GoldThing. If you are so wimpy that you can't put up with the small amount of heat that Kawasaki couldn't route past you, get a rear engined moped like our members, Tostito and TonyBoy.
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 12:48 PM
Thats a good idea...never though of that, gonna take my 14 and mount the engine behind me, cuz "whattsa behind me itssa not important". LOL.
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ZREXER

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posted June 01, 2006 12:49 PM
Your Boss Hoss must be a little warm at times I would guess! Up here in the 'great white north' a little extra engine heat is appreciated on about 80% of our riding days. I've been frozen way more times while riding than cooked from engine heat!
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ZREXER

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posted June 01, 2006 12:53 PM
quote: Thats a good idea...never though of that, gonna take my 14 and mount the engine behind me, cuz "whattsa behind me itssa not important". LOL.
Maybe they can just hang the engine behind the rear axle like they did on older Porsche 911's.............or make a 1400cc scooter, like a Suzuki Burgman 650, but with 1400cc engine, now that would be a good sleeper machine. Imagine telling anyone you got smoked by a scooter!
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fastestbusaaround

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posted June 01, 2006 12:58 PM
Well I'll tell ya, the scooter can wheelie at 2MPH...so in that respect, WE WOULD GET SMOKED BY A SCOOTER...
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ZREXER

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posted June 01, 2006 01:05 PM
quote: Well I'll tell ya, the scooter can wheelie at 2MPH...so in that respect, WE WOULD GET SMOKED BY A SCOOTER...
Surprisingly, my wifes 50cc Vino Scooter will wheelie right off idle with a firm pull on the bars.................or am I just lifting the whole thing off the ground?
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