rollon1300
Parking Attendant
Posts: 10
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posted April 29, 2006 10:42 AM
WARNING - Check Front Brake Switch
I have found the same problem Zermatt did with his front brake light switch. This is a SERIOUS problem and I would bet there are other ZX-14 riders out there that have not done a critical check as to where their front brake switch really activates. On first quick check at the dealers, everything seemed OK. When I arrived home from my first ride I did a detailed check and found that the switch was activating just after the brake lever was lightly applied, which actually was a fair amount of force applied to the pads. With another person watching, I did a few stops and found that the brakelight only came on with a real hard stop (this bike has very good brakes.)
The inability to adjust this switch without disassembly and filing of the plunger is a really bad design. Kawasaki had better get a high-priority recall and fix out there fast before some riders get stuffed.
Thanks to Zermatt for posting the topic "Front brakelight switch adjustment" with comments on how he fixed the problem. I followed his instructions and all is well now.
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rollon1300 - make that 1400 ;-)
  
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Nixter
Expert Class
Posts: 152
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posted April 29, 2006 11:22 AM
I checked mine and it seems OK. I'll have to check in more detail now that 2 people brought it up.
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2012 ZX14R - Black
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MrHi
Parking Attendant
Posts: 14
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posted April 29, 2006 01:55 PM
Mine seems ok but ill check further.
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nightmare
Pro
ACP Racing
Posts: 1797
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posted April 29, 2006 04:52 PM
Ill make sure to check mine. Oh wait, it has not arrived yet! DAMMIT!
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swft
Needs a life
Full throttle!
Posts: One MEEEEEELLION
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posted April 29, 2006 04:56 PM
You can always grab your d**k and give yourself a brake check... 
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nightmare
Pro
ACP Racing
Posts: 1797
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posted April 29, 2006 04:58 PM
yeap
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RunningFree
Expert Class
Posts: 107
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posted April 30, 2006 05:51 AM
It's been no cause of worry for me since...
I DON'T HAVE THE FUCKING BIKE YET!!!
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2006 ZX14 Black
2005 SV1000S Red
2002 VFR800A Red(sold)
The best part of repentance is the sinning
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zermatt
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted April 30, 2006 11:29 AM
I was beginning to wonder if that was only a problem on *my* bike... I'm glad you checked yours out rollon. I don't think my brake light came on with the front brake for the first 2-3 days until I adjusted it 
I don't know exactly when mine started the problem, but as there is no adjustment option other than filing the plunger, I'd have to guess that it was happening from the get-go. All's well now though... a little file did the trick for me!
Up to about 850 miles now and still LOVING THIS BIKE!! 
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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rollon1300
Parking Attendant
Posts: 10
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posted April 30, 2006 01:37 PM
Zermatt, That's the advantage of a forum like this. You helped me with your comments and fix and we help the other members by keeping the situation up front. If some other members notice the problem, maybe Fish should put a sticky on the forum.
I've only got about 60 miles on the 14 over two rides because of other committments, but I intend to do a first oil change at 100 miles and get some real riding in this week (day off.) I'm up from an 04 Busa and I'll post my full comments by the end of the week or next weekend, but this is one SWEEEEET machine. 
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rollon1300 - make that 1400 ;-)
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spalding12
Novice Class
Posts: 40
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posted April 30, 2006 03:14 PM
quote:
but I intend to do a first oil change at 100 miles and get some real riding in this week (day off.) I'm up from an 04 Busa and I'll post my full comments by the end of the week or next weekend, but this is one SWEEEEET machine.
why would you ever change the oil after only 100 miles?
you DO know that kawasaki puts certain "ADDITIVES" in the oil that are meant to circulate in the motor until the first service.... that may very well increase engine life, in the long run
why would you drain them out before they have a chance to work?
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rollon1300
Parking Attendant
Posts: 10
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posted April 30, 2006 05:25 PM
quote:
why would you ever change the oil after only 100 miles?
you DO know that kawasaki puts certain "ADDITIVES" in the oil that are meant to circulate in the motor until the first service.... that may very well increase engine life, in the long run
why would you drain them out before they have a chance to work?
Actually, I am unaware of any motorcycle or automobile manufacturer using break-in oils in their vehicles at the present time. If they did, they would make a definitive statement in the manual or with a placard advising the owner of this fact. Also, it has been determined by spectroscopic examination of engine oil that better than 80% of the wear in a new or rebuilt engine takes place within the first hour of operation. I'd rather get my heavily metal-contaminated oil out of the engine as soon as possible.
You might want to read Brock Davidson's "Streebike Engine Breake-in Procedure" that can be found at:
http://www.brocksperformance.com/forum/default.asp
Brock drains after the first 15 miles, which also includes some non-moving warm-up time.
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rollon1300 - make that 1400 ;-)
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spalding12
Novice Class
Posts: 40
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posted April 30, 2006 05:33 PM
quote:
quote:
why would you ever change the oil after only 100 miles?
you DO know that kawasaki puts certain "ADDITIVES" in the oil that are meant to circulate in the motor until the first service.... that may very well increase engine life, in the long run
why would you drain them out before they have a chance to work?
Actually, I am unaware of any motorcycle or automobile manufacturer using break-in oils in their vehicles at the present time. If they did, they would make a definitive statement in the manual or with a placard advising the owner of this fact. Also, it has been determined by spectroscopic examination of engine oil that better than 80% of the wear in a new or rebuilt engine takes place within the first hour of operation. I'd rather get my heavily metal-contaminated oil out of the engine as soon as possible.
You might want to read Brock Davidson's "Streebike Engine Breake-in Procedure" that can be found at:
http://www.brocksperformance.com/forum/default.asp
Brock drains after the first 15 miles, which also includes some non-moving warm-up time.
thanks for the education..... i really appreciate it
it's nice to learn something every day
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted April 30, 2006 05:38 PM
quote:
quote:
but I intend to do a first oil change at 100 miles and get some real riding in this week (day off.) I'm up from an 04 Busa and I'll post my full comments by the end of the week or next weekend, but this is one SWEEEEET machine.
why would you ever change the oil after only 100 miles?
you DO know that kawasaki puts certain "ADDITIVES" in the oil that are meant to circulate in the motor until the first service.... that may very well increase engine life, in the long run
why would you drain them out before they have a chance to work?
BS. they just use the cheapest shit oil they can fnd...prolly recycled from dogshit.
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FYYFF!!!
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Joe Cool
Novice Class
Posts: 54
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posted April 30, 2006 05:56 PM
I've heard a lot of negative comments about synthetic oils and engine break in. Anyone know the truth about this? Which brands would you recommend or stay away from?
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted April 30, 2006 06:01 PM
Speak to Brock...he said to me last week that after the 1st 100 miles, go synth. I'm using Amzoil Race 2000 now....
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FYYFF!!!
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spalding12
Novice Class
Posts: 40
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posted April 30, 2006 06:10 PM
quote:
Speak to Brock...he said to me last week that after the 1st 100 miles, go synth. I'm using Amzoil Race 2000 now....
while i appreciate how much you like brock
there is no one else on earth who believes that you can safely put full synthetic racing oil in a bike with only 100 miles....
and we all know that
so, why do you think he's right and 1,000,000 others are wrong?
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted April 30, 2006 06:16 PM
Dude, many cars today come with Mobile 1 from factory..including my wife's Vette. Brock builds motors and some very fast machines....I think he just might be in a better position than many others who don't? I've doing it this way for years, and have always had fast realiable motors. There are also millions of others who believe that you have to pussy the bike during break-in; more of those than those who subscribe to the "ride it like ya stole it" theory...so are they also wrong?
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FYYFF!!!
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zx61114
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted April 30, 2006 06:21 PM
 Edited By: zx61114 on 30 Apr 2006 19:31
Joe I'm not expert but here is what I've been told by people I think know what their talking about.
1. Most engines are not designed for synthetic at break-in, I have heard the Vette does use synthetic at break-in so a little CYA there. My understanding is that 1st part of break in is baking the rings into place. Synthetic by it's nature is attracted to heat thus lubricating hotter areas better than traditional oil making break in a slower process. I suspect break in with synthetic will work but will take a lot longer. The 2nd part of break in is having the bike go from room temp to operating temp and back again. Because I ride far I will replace the oil at 600-1000 miles with Dino oil then when I get to 7,000 miles I'll jump over to synthetic. Seems like the safest way to go. I like Ams-oil 20W-50 for the VFR but I have to read the specs on the 14. Please remember this is just an opinion however, I will say that synthetic oil did make the flat spot on the VFR about 60% better than with traditional Dino oil. The thinking there is make things more slick inside the engine...well performance will follow.
Rob
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Joe Cool
Novice Class
Posts: 54
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posted May 04, 2006 01:35 PM
Thanks for the posts..... a lot to think about. I've used Mobil 1 in my 57 BelAir when I rebuilt it & haven't have any trouble. Wasn't sure if motorcycles would be different.
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ZREXER
Expert Class
Posts: 492
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posted May 04, 2006 02:46 PM
The guy I talked to at Edmonton bike night last night found the same thing, light application of the front brake meant no brake light..............
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted May 04, 2006 02:50 PM
Checked mine -- she be fine.
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FYYFF!!!
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chez
Expert Class
Posts: 134
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posted May 04, 2006 04:42 PM
Front Brake Switch
I always disconnect my front brake switch anyways so my rivals don't see my brake light come and know how late I'm braking!!!! Just have the rear connected for riding in traffic.Never seem to use the rear brake much except for U turns and to get the front wheel back on the deck from adventurous wheelies.
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Chez
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zx61114
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted May 21, 2006 05:59 AM
This thread has some age to it but I wanted to give you all another heads up on my favorite dealers opinion. They don't know how to adjust the front brake lamp. OK having said that does anyone have a shop manual or a printout of how this area (Front brake) is put together? Using the front brake to the click I'm stopping hard. Here is the best part they just sent me a letter saying how important it is to stay on top of your maintenance. Bastards.
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted May 21, 2006 06:34 AM
There's a little black switch screwed to the bottom of the brake M/C. Take a #1 Phillips head screwdriver and remove the screw. First, take a rubber band and load the front brake lever. Doing this will prevent the pin from snapping off under the "push-stop pedal" of the lever when removing/replacing the switch. Take a numbered drill and elongate the hole one step out. Use a jeweler's rat tail file to elongate the screw hole. Either way will work. Rat tail is more controllable. Install the switch, send the screw home, but leave the screw loose. Remove the rubber band. Now simply pivot the switch to your "on" setting using the brake lever, and by watching the rear brake light come on. Tighten the screw after finding your setting.
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E-tard
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted May 21, 2006 06:42 AM
Thanks htosado for my edit window = 0 time!
The screwdriver is a # 2 head, which can be found in the bike's tool kit.
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E-tard
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