SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
new-bee
Posts: 14
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posted August 24, 2006 09:29 PM
How to remove airbox? Help!
If this has been brought up, I apologize. I tried searching, and found nothing.
New to the boards, and I'm coming for some desperate help. I have a 2005 ZX-10 I bought new in 2005. It now has 13,200 or so miles on it, and I am changing the air filter and spark plugs. I got the panels, fuel tank, etc off. I took out the 5 allen bolts holding in the airbox, and removed the 2 drain tubes. Now the whole airbox assembly won't come out of the frame!!! Am I doing something wrong? It seems the airbox is about a half inch wider than the frame is. Please help, I don't want my baby in pieces much longer.
Thanks!
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2005 ZX-10R
   
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bovinespongiformencephalo
Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
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posted August 24, 2006 09:35 PM
You gotta twist it sideways. Get a manual or prepare to pay huge $ for your mistakes. There is a lot that isn't obvious with these bikes. Have you disconnected the electrical connections?
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 24, 2006 09:57 PM
Actually you got to shove it slightly foreward while rotating it to the right. If you remove the little senser from the right rear of the box you can twist either direction. Get the rubber intake boots all loose from the front and shove the box into them slightly wadding them up and twist at the same time. BE EXTRA careful when you put those five screws back in. IF you over tighten them they strip the nut cert out of the plastic. Many people have learned this the hard way and it's an 80 dollar part.
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 24, 2006 11:01 PM
Thanks for the replies. There was already black plastic on the screws when I removed them, hopefully no damage was done at the factory.
I forgot to mention, I unplugged one sensor connector.... I hope there is no more.
OK, I'll give it another go tomorrow..... Any way to get those rubber intake boots out without removing the front panel? I doubt it. Any other things I need to be extra careful about?
And a manual is on the "to-buy" list. I'm just so broke right now, I can barely afford gas and food, not to mention bike payments. 
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2005 ZX-10R
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 24, 2006 11:58 PM
OK, I got the airbox out. I was trying to get it out the wrong way. Found out it comes out to the REAR. Anyways, now onto the spark plugs. Anyone know a good extension combo to get to them? They are tucked away! I was thinking: plug socket-4 inch extender- u-joint - 3 inch extender- wrench. all in 3/8 inch. Sound good? Any other tips?
Thanks!
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2005 ZX-10R
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 25, 2006 12:22 AM
pic
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2005 ZX-10R
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
new-bee
Posts: 14
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posted August 25, 2006 12:23 AM
 Edited By: SpceSpff on 25 Aug 2006 01:23
one more
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2005 ZX-10R
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 25, 2006 06:33 AM
If you got that box out to the rear without pushing forward and twisting it you're in the wrong line of work. You're going to love getting #1 & #4 coil sticks out. I can't wait to here how you do this. But I'll just keep my less than experienced mouth shut on this one. Perhaps you'll figure out some unique way that no one else has been able to.
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 25, 2006 11:03 AM
LOL! Give me some suggestions please!
With the airbox, I pushed forward, rotated it clockwise, and then pulled it towards the rear of the bike. It came out that way sidways. Isn't that what you told me? I had it mashed up against the intake boots and everything.
What do you think about my wrench combo?
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2005 ZX-10R
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 25, 2006 02:11 PM
The factory Spark Plug wrench is the ticket, BUT you have to remove the motor mounts that are located on the under side of the main frame spar over 1 and 4 before the coils will come out. It's a pain in the ASS to do. It takes a 12 and 14mm wrench/ socket/ every damn combo you can scrape together to get the three bolts out on each side and then they have a torque spec for reinstall. GOOD LUCK!! Unless you have a ton of miles I wouldn't screw with the plugs. THEY REALLY ARE A PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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spcespff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 25, 2006 02:19 PM
arrrrrr. I have 13,200 or so miles. I was going off what the owners manual says. I think they recommend 12,000 for spark plug change? Should I hold off on this?
And how does removing that bracket affect the engine? It's not going to drop onto the floor of my garage is it? haha, I hope not. I kinda figured you have to remove it, I was hoping I wouldn't have to... UGH
Thanks so much for the help so far. Dang engineers that make things so hard....
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2005 ZX-10R
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GUNNER
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 25, 2006 05:40 PM
NO it's not going to fall out. There's 4 other mounting bolts. Actually those don't do a whole lot to hold the motor in place.
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
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Posts: 14
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posted August 25, 2006 07:30 PM
Alright, I've made the decision to do one of two things.
#1 Take bike to Kawi dealer, have them finish the job, if they can do it in less than 2 hours.
#2 Put it back together, and change them out in a few thousand more miles, after I've picked up a smaller torque wrench than I have, and the special spark plug socket.
Would waiting til later to change the plugs be okay? My bike is used for commuting a lot, I don't abuse the throttle THAT much.....
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2005 ZX-10R
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bovinespongiformencephalo
Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
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posted August 25, 2006 09:50 PM
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!! Not the dealer. Anything but the dealer. Dude, show a little love, some patience, get the motherfucking manual already, and do it yourself. You can pay for the manual with the money you won't spend at the dealer. Is there no independent shop with a good "troll in back" where you live?
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salsa1
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posted August 26, 2006 07:09 AM
Hi guys; just a related interjection here. Any one done the air injection mod to the crankase vent once airbox is removed?
Tell us in the forum exactly what to do once air box is removed if you care to..would be helpfull I believe...
I gather a "T" and fuel line quality hose is required to go from point A at the air box to point B in the crankcase somehow??
Thanks if you can shed some light and carry on...
Salsa1
!
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Salsa1
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salsa1
Needs a life
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posted August 26, 2006 07:16 AM
Ok mod must be from point A valve cover to point B crankcase breather.. figure if I show enough helpless ignorance somwone who can do this will speak up hehe...
please excuse the diverted topic... sparkplugs change decision looks like it's reached maturity...
.have fun guys!!
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Salsa1
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GUNNER
Needs a life
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posted August 26, 2006 07:19 AM
Edited By: GUNNER on 26 Aug 2006 08:20
Put a cap on the box where the vent once hooked up. IN fact CAP all the holes in your box! I had mine plumbed up to the clean air ports BUT! after I had my cylinder head off over the winter I decided to undo that and just put a small K&N style breather hooked to the case vent instead. The position in which the vac holes enter the exhaust port wasn't that pleasing to me and that's why I removed it. I didn't think it wise to be introducing an oily mist at that point in the exhaust port.
I do however have that deal hooked up on my 12R and it works great. BUT the difference is the exhaust port layout.
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bovinespongiformencephalo
Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
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posted August 26, 2006 03:34 PM
Weld a bung on the midpipe at 45ยบ. Attach your crank breather to that. you might want to start by putting a vacuum gauge on the fitting to see if it's going to work. I've never tried it with a jap bike.
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SpceSpff
Parking Attendant
new-bee
Posts: 14
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posted August 27, 2006 12:11 PM
No worries about going off topic.
I got the info I needed, except the opinion on it fht eplugs really need changing...
Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it
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2005 ZX-10R
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