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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX10R ZONE.com > Thread: Stripped Oil Drain Plug NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
catd11r


Expert Class
Posts: 206
posted June 18, 2005 11:33 AM        
Stripped Oil Drain Plug

What is the best way to fix a stripped out oil plug, should you buy a self tapping plug, heli coil or what, thought you guys might have a better way
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beansbaxter


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posted June 18, 2005 12:04 PM        
Well since I recommend replacing it no matter what, do whatever it takes to get it off.

It's always nice to have a self-tapping tool...I prefer to use the self-tapping tool to get a good enough hole started, then hammer in a flat-head screwdriver and it twists right out.

That's how I do it...I'm sure there is a better way.

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fattkaw


Expert Class
Posts: 277
posted June 18, 2005 12:06 PM        
heli coil is the best fix. just keep the metal shavings out of the motor.
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k bryant


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posted June 18, 2005 12:59 PM        Edited By: k bryant on 18 Jun 2005 14:00
You have another option to the heli-coil route. Re-tap up to the next available size drain plug. Put a fair amount of grease on the tap to help prevent shavings from going into the pan. If it was on my bike, I'd remove the pan and do it, because it's doubtfull you'd be able to spare getting some shavings into the pan and/or shoulder of the boss.


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Speedfab


Novice Class
Posts: 79
posted June 18, 2005 02:33 PM        
PULL THE PAN. It's too easy to just go ahead and pull the pan to be worth taking a chance trying to tap it with the pan on the bike. You can do as suggested above and tap the drain hole for a larger thread size plug, or you can use a time-sert to repair the threads to the proper size and never have to worry about it again. timeserts

No offense to Helicoil fans but... Helicoils/wound wire thread repairs SUCK, I wouldnt do that to my lawnmower. Just not a strong fix, and the insert has no way of locking in place. Sooner or later it will pull and/or partially unscrew itself.

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swft


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posted June 18, 2005 05:59 PM        
Timeserts have been rock solid for me. Like Speedfab, I've had helicoils back out.
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TedG


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Posts: 8222
posted June 18, 2005 06:11 PM        
I have had great luck with heli-coils, but I like to locktite them. But kbryants suggestion is also a good one. The only thing I can add to what he said is after the repair is complete, get a cheap quart of oil, let it sit out in the sun and when it is warm just pour it in the engine and let it just drain out to rinse out any chunks. If you decide not to pull the pan.
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extremelean


Pro
Posts: 1651
posted June 18, 2005 10:23 PM        
Timesert.......THEE best way to go......In tests, It's been found that helicoils tend to pull out more often than not......Heli coil is a cheaper route.......but timesert is not overly priced as long as you have someone that knows how to do it and DO IT RIGHT!!

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catd11r


Expert Class
Posts: 206
posted June 19, 2005 08:54 AM        
Thanks guys, I've also seen helicoils back out unless you use loctite. I've got the pan off, I'm going to go the timesert way, I appreciate all your wisdom!
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bovinespongiformencephalo


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posted June 20, 2005 07:32 AM        
Be careful. The pan may have cracked. Happens a lot on R1's. 16.5 lbs is the spec for that bolt on the 10R. On the Yammy they called out something insane like 46 lbs for the drain bolt. Guaranteed to crack the pan.
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TedG


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Posts: 8222
posted June 20, 2005 08:28 AM        
If you have the pan off, might you want to consider having it welded and re drilled and tapped?
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10rmotor


Novice Class
Posts: 100
posted June 20, 2005 09:46 PM        
The material the oil pan is made from welds pretty nicely. I've welded on the zx10/zx11 pans and that material is a beotch to weld. Clean it real well with brake parts cleaner, wire brush, wash again with soap and water and air dry it. Use 5356 rod. Welds like buttta.
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catd11r


Expert Class
Posts: 206
posted June 22, 2005 07:42 PM        
Thanks guys, I've gotten it fixed and it's all right.
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