posted November 21, 2004 09:26 PM
ZX10R Brake Performance? How would you rate the preformance of the brake system on the 10R ? I have had instances on my bike where after repeated application of the front brakes through a favourite spot I ride called the Reefton Spur a series of tight twisties that you are constantly on the brakes hard I have had the lever back to the bar several times through a run. I have Goodridge lines Castrol fluid properly bleed on span setting 1. I have also had the same problem to a lesser degree on the track. On the weekend I went through the same run on my Aprilia it has Brembo Radial calipers lines ect all standard fitment on an Edwards Replica. I would gauge at a simular pace without the slighest hint of any fade, the same happens on the track for this bike. I know the cost of the Edwards is more than twice the 10R but the Tokico's are nothing to be sneezed at. As result I have ordered a 16mm Brembo Radial master cylinder and a full set of Braking "Margurita" rotors with fren Gold pads and will see how it goes with a replace 1 item and test mentality to gauge the week link. I have noticed that the stock master cyliner is 14mm same part as the 6R....Hmmmm! Our superbike rider for this year could only complete 2-3 laps on a stripped but basically stock 10R before the brakes were completely gone and had to pit. I would be intereste in your comments and if you have this problem.
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posted November 21, 2004 10:32 PM
I once had a problem like that...Couldn't figure out where to put the sentence breaks and how to start a paragraph to save my life... ____________
82 Gpz750, 84 Ninja 900, 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy Big Bore Kit), *another* 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy custom stroke crank 1341cc motor), 2004 ZZR1200, 2005 ZX10R, 2007 ZX14, 2008 Concours 14, 2014 Versys 650, 2014 Yamaha WR450F, 2015 Ninja H2
posted November 21, 2004 11:08 PM
Geez, your a hard one to please it looked alright at the time Teacher! Would you like me to rewrite it so it's easier to read?
Don't you know if you leave a gap some cager will just move right in!
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posted November 21, 2004 11:26 PM
Edited By: big daddy on 20 Dec 2004 17:22
FP
While i would agree the 10r brakes aren't anywhere near superbike level they are however quite capable of repeated heavy handed applications. In any event your Brembo radial should be 19x18 anyway. The 6r & 6rr have diff pad compounds that give a better initial bite than the OEM 10r pads FYI.
posted November 21, 2004 11:38 PM
Edited By: big daddy on 20 Dec 2004 17:24
and a lill more to chew on..............
In the Brembo Radial Brake Pump & Clutch Pump product line the first number (19) indicates the size of the piston in mm's. The second number (18 or 20) is the distance, in mm's, from the point at which the brake lever attaches to the brake pump to the pivot point on the brake lever for the piston shaft. An 18 mm lever produces more pressure at the caliper for a given force on the lever than the 20 mm lever. In simple terms the 20 mm lever requires more effort but has better feed back at the lever. The 18 mm lever requires less effort for the same braking force but typical has less feed back at the lever depending on rotor and pad type. The brake pump piston travel is the same with either lever. The 19 mm piston size is typically used for dual, four piston, caliper applications. A 16 mm piston size is used for single brake caliper and hydraulic clutch applications.
posted November 21, 2004 11:43 PM
BD, checked the master it is exactly the same including part numbers ect.
Going to a 16mm unit off a 9R or 7RR is a popular swap but opted for the Brembo 16mm as it gives the most feel and power without going over the top so I am reliably informed.
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted November 21, 2004 11:56 PM
exactly the same as what??
yes i'm aware of the 9r & 7rr as i used one on my 916 as it was weak but either way the 19x18 wouldn't be over the top and would certainly cure the issues you've encountered.
quote:I once had a problem like that...Couldn't figure out where to put the sentence breaks and how to start a paragraph to save my life...
I was thinking the same thing myself.
Back to the thread question.
On the street (I live in FL not very hard on the breaks) I have never had an issue.
I have Galfer Lines and expensive fluid.
At the track I started to worry about the breaks and had to bring the pace down a bit. I brought the lever to the bars almost every session towards the end.
I keep the lever out at its max distance from the bars to start with so we are talking alot of movement.
The breaks would cool down and be fine again.
I think the stock pads are alot to blame. I would bet just changing them out woulf cure your (and mine) issue.
But I am never one to do the easiest cure.
I like to overdo everything.
So I have the Galfer Roters and EBC brakes sitting in the Garage waiting to be installed.
posted November 22, 2004 01:35 PM
Yeah Yeah, schools out. BD the reference was to the stock master cylinder on OZ spec bikes the 10R & 6R use the same 14mm item.
Testing by another race team with Suzuki's (that use the same calipers) has shown that the 16mm Brembo unit ( that I have ordered ) is the best balance between power and feel and they tested many combinations.
I am not sure if the ratio spec is 16mm x 18,19,20 as the data does not specify that I have seen to date. You are right the master cylinder on my Aprilia is an 18mm x 20mm radial spec and is the correct match for the calipers, it is also fitted with tiny lines to the brakes by comparison to the 10R.
Crispin nothing succeeds like excess, tried various pads on the race bikes without a huge change in performance over the standard items fitted.
I guess the proof will be in the testing so I will let you know how it all turns out.
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted November 22, 2004 01:52 PM
Red, maybe they are saving it all up for the 06 update!
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posted November 22, 2004 05:34 PM
FP 10R - it's hard to believe that KMC really wants to be a contender for the top spot when they don't even try to keep up. I've added even more ranting on this since I posted the link.
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posted November 23, 2004 07:36 AM
You can fuck with your brakes all day long. Until you do a full Brembo conversion you'll be wanting for more. Seriously. If you have the $ get some Brembos on there. Everything else is a compromise.
posted November 30, 2004 09:25 PM
Bo,
$10k+ for the Brembo items, I know I have already spent a shit load on the bike so far but the upgrade I have mentioned will only cost 20% of that and will arrive at essentially the same result. Fitup and testing will tell, yes I agree it will not be a full blown Brembo system like on my Edwards Aprilia but it should be close. I will see what it turns out like in the next couple of weeks.
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted November 30, 2004 09:55 PM
$10k for Brembos?? Attached to a set of SB spec Ohlins forks I hope....lol.
Im happy with the full floaters on my 12 by AP Racing. Has the variable master too.
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Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
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posted November 30, 2004 09:58 PM
Sorry if you want the Ohlins forks thats another $25k for a reasonable pair!
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted November 30, 2004 10:14 PM
AUS $ if you want GP spec forks think in the $100k range I know of a guy who bought an ex GP 500 bike 2000 model and the forks were worth well over that amount. Had to sign an agreement that he would not divulge any technology on the bike before the sale and this applied to the whole bike!
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted November 30, 2004 10:45 PM
FP, if you race... some organizations have "claiming" rules... so the agreement that chap signed would be useless if another competitor wanted to buy those $100k forks.....hehe
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Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
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posted December 05, 2004 04:55 PM
WWW...... don't throw out your pads nothing wrong with them, bleed your brakes with Castrol SRF fluid and put some braided lines on first. You probably boiled the fluid at the track and this causes the loss of lever problem.
Well so much for the test each part theory, rolled in Saturday and it was all fitted up bar the Master Cylinder a 16mm x 18mm unit so I found out apparently it needs a special length Banjo bolt with pressure switch to activate the brake light.
The Rotors look trick and are quite a bit lighter than the stock units so it should be interesting to see the performance of it all when I finally get on board will post a pic if I can remember how later this week.
Turbo the agreement also covered strictly "NO Racing" ride day only bike and a collector setup, breaking the contract means forfieture of the bike and a penalty. Pretty severe don't you think but a great bike and he has no intention of breaking the agreement.
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"Life is not a rehearsal so make the most of it" Carefully
posted December 06, 2004 08:01 AM
After reading in the mags how great the brakes are on the 10R, I was quite surprised at how lousy they felt, compared to the 954RR and RC51 that I had previously.
I bled the brakes and was going to change to braided lines until I saw that they are "hard" lines. My race shop owner buddy (who has a 10R) told me not to bother with braided lines for a street bike, but to install a set of SBS sintered race pads.
Did as he suggested. WOW!! Felt better than any set of lines I've ever installed on a bike. It's the "sprocket" of brakes. 10 minute install, BIG performance difference.
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Mal Glanz
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
'12 ZX-14R
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posted November 21, 2004 09:26 PM
posted November 21, 2004 11:08 PM
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