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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX10R ZONE.com > Thread: Confused... Oil viscosity question... NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
fish_antlers


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posted August 30, 2004 08:06 PM        
Confused... Oil viscosity question...

Now I'm really confused... I have gotten 2 different responses from two people who's technical knowledge with regards to engines I trust completely.


One says to run 10w40 in the 10R, as it is the specified oil.

The other says to run 15w50 as it costs less than 1hp but helps the shifting.

Anyone else care to confuse me more? I need to change my oil and I dont know what to use... perhaps I should mix the 10w40 and the 15w50 and then I'd be listening to both of them?
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swft


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posted August 30, 2004 08:10 PM        
Run two stroke oil...It smells purty.
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bovinespongiformencephalo


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posted August 30, 2004 09:36 PM        
Heavier oil helps shifting? I know who I'd listen to from now on.
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10rmotor


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posted August 30, 2004 09:41 PM        
Are you having shifting problems? If not, I'd run the spec oil.
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papawheelie


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posted August 30, 2004 10:55 PM        
Royal purple. Use synthetic You gain horsepower when you use the man made sh**
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frEEk


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ummm... yeah
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posted August 30, 2004 11:37 PM        
not gonan make all that much difference either way. given that the weather is coolin off tho, i'd go for the 10-40.
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salsa1


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posted August 31, 2004 04:31 AM        Edited By: salsa1 on 31 Aug 2004 06:00
10-40 as per spec ;why complicate any further unless you have extreem temperatures.....

I run about 6 oz. of Militec-one as it has been proven to work in my personal experience with my ZX-11 and with other folks too.

Worth considering; I have very good results in my seat of the pants dyno with it; seems like the real deal. Have fun:


http://www.militec-1.com/



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Salsa1

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arnab


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posted August 31, 2004 05:12 AM        
any idea on what kinda oil i should use in the middle east, the temp here at noon reached 48 degrees, thats celcius to the people in this board
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fish_antlers


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posted August 31, 2004 05:24 AM        
olive oil?
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frEEk


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posted August 31, 2004 08:19 AM        
arnab, i'd just go a little thicker is all, like 20-50?. i'm no mechanic, but that was always the standard approach for cars.
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SPROCKET


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posted August 31, 2004 08:30 AM        
Castrol R4 fully synthetic. Synthetic doesn't burn, better viscosity, longer lasting than conventional oil, adds HP, sticks to the metal better than conventional oil.
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AUT VINCERE AUT MORI.

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WARBIRD


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posted August 31, 2004 08:43 AM        Edited By: WARBIRD on 31 Aug 2004 09:46
You have your choice of weights with this fine motor oil. Ask Doug what weight he recommends and proceed with confidence.

http://www.motodepot.com/accessories/oil/Motul/motul_4t.html
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Hells Dark Lord


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posted August 31, 2004 01:01 PM        
right now I am running Kawachem 20-50 in the 10 and when it cools off around here I will go to the 10-40, I like the 20-50 makes the clutch and tranny feel, very slick.....
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WARBIRD


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posted August 31, 2004 01:33 PM        Edited By: WARBIRD on 31 Aug 2004 14:38
Here is some more for you fish............

This is from an oil article to which there is a link at the bottom.

Quote:
"Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection."



"Web Master's Note
The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride."

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm


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dougmeyer


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posted August 31, 2004 01:47 PM        Edited By: dougmeyer on 31 Aug 2004 14:50
Since you asked, I use the Motul 300V bioguard. I have 5/40 in my 12 currently and also in my cars. In the winter around here I go to 5/30 in the Durango and I have 5/30 in the Corvette becuase GM is pretty adamant about the weight thing in the LS-6. There was a noticeable smoothing of the engien when I made the switch from Mobil 1. I have used 15/50 300V at Bonneville alot. We use 5/40 in the Turbo 12 shootout bike.
I've been using these oils and their precursers since 1988 and am simply amazed at the results. Most of what I see is not "explainable" in a scientific sense. The noticeable change in "feel" is easily noted, but how can you prove the no "lubrication related" problems are a result except by inference.
As evidenced in the Vette, the Motul added 2-5 psi of oil pressure even when going to a lighter viscosity at the same oil temp.
I found the same thing during back to back oil/dyno tests. More pressure & more power consistantly.
Doug

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Y2KZX12R


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posted August 31, 2004 02:00 PM        
I wonder what the difference in oil temps are between those two specs.

I've always run golden spectro 10-40. Its a synthetic blend with a lot of phosphorus and other extreme pressure lubes and acid neutralizers. Never had any issues.

Fish, if I send you a zipped file of an excellent oil test can you post it for the group?
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frEEk


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posted August 31, 2004 02:04 PM        
doug, if your winters are real cold, i'v had excellent results frmo running 0W30 oil in my car in winter. tried a coupel different brands, don't remember which (jsut some middle of the road stuff). it wasnt exactly a fancy engine (280ZX) but even going to -17C with a cold engine and NO block heater and ancient ignition, it never failed to start right up. same was true of my 71 240ZX too, with even older ignition.
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dougmeyer


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posted August 31, 2004 03:00 PM        
I don't do that because I rarely do an extremely cold start (heated garage etc.) and I think that the 0W is a little light for running around the mountains or pulling a trailer.
You know the whole oil thing is just so much personal preference, I'd never presume to claim any "scientific" evidence. I don't know of any instances of actually bad oil or oil induced problems, I just know what works for me.
D.

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frEEk


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posted August 31, 2004 03:31 PM        
for me it was just used in a small car and it never saw above 15C (more commonly 5C) for the whoel time, so it wasnt an issue. i defintiely see ur point for trailering or if it doesnt fall below -5 or -10C.
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WARBIRD


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posted August 31, 2004 03:39 PM        
quote:
You have your choice of weights with this fine motor oil. Ask Doug what weight he recommends and proceed with confidence.

http://www.motodepot.com/accessories/oil/Motul/motul_4t.html



Doug............would you click on the link and tell me if the top Motul oil is the one you use in different weights?
Thanks
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k bryant


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posted August 31, 2004 03:45 PM        Edited By: k bryant on 31 Aug 2004 16:46
Doug - Did you ever do the Royal Purple 5 wt testing thing years ago when they were claiming big hp diff? I did a bunch of it with Wymer, and man it definetly made more power (like 2-3 hp on a single, 3-5 on a four if I remember). But holy shite that stuff drained out like water (even when it was cold!!). Definetly would not be running it in anything but a way frequently torn down race motor (and one that I didn't own ). But I admit that I saw no damage or bad wear on dyno motors. Just never tried it in the "field". Too scared....


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dougmeyer


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posted September 01, 2004 09:48 AM        
Warbird,
That is the stuff. The 5/40 is for motorcycles, the 5/30 is for automotive, same oil, different packaging.
Kerry,
No, I didn't have any of that (R/P) when I did those tests. I am familiar with the "water weight" oils. A lot of the drag guys use it, especially in the 600 SS's. I've even heard of some guys using ATF. Seems to work without any damage, but it sure would scare me.....
Doug

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WARBIRD


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posted September 01, 2004 01:58 PM        
Thanks Doug......... And.......per your last sentence above.......it sure would scare me too!!!!!!
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