bayouZed
Parking Attendant
Posts: 28
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posted July 06, 2004 06:48 PM
final break in?
Been ridin' it like I stole it for close to a thou. now, Have read that it keeps gettin' stronger through 1200, 1500, even 2400 miles.
I don't want to sacrifice future performance, but..
When can i just cruise when i want to? (long range steady speed) without loss of potential power?
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k bryant
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posted July 06, 2004 08:30 PM
If you're saying you've been ridin' like you stole it for the first 1000 miles, I'm not sure anything from here on out would make much of a difference one way or the other. I can tell you I dyno'd one that was thourghly abused from day one, and it was 10-12 hp down from the other 5 I tested. But your results may vary, as will others. If you're really interested in finding out what kind of success you've had from your "initial" break-in, you should put her on the dyno.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding your question?
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bayouzed
Parking Attendant
Posts: 28
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posted July 07, 2004 04:08 AM
no, I haven't abused it. haven't even come close to redline, just rolling the throttle on and off to keep the rings under pressure with very little constant speed riding. This seems to work because I have noticed increase in performance.
can I just cruise now or will I sacrifice further improvement if I don't continue the roll on/roll off for x number of miles?
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k bryant
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posted July 07, 2004 07:30 AM
The OEM break-in recomendation miles are 1000. So if you're over that, ride it anyway you like. The do seem to gain some hp, up to a point, as the miles grow.
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Hamilton
Novice Class
Posts: 49
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posted July 07, 2004 10:30 AM
quote:
I can tell you I dyno'd one that was thourghly abused from day one, and it was 10-12 hp down from the other 5 I tested.
Cool! Now maybe this will quiet the "mototuneusa" followers who bash the "by the book" procedure.
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Dirtybill
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posted July 07, 2004 11:05 PM
quote:
quote:
I can tell you I dyno'd one that was thourghly abused from day one, and it was 10-12 hp down from the other 5 I tested.
Cool! Now maybe this will quiet the "mototuneusa" followers who bash the "by the book" procedure.
Ha Ha Ha!!!!! A local forum I was on (before I got banned), which supposedly had mechanics and racers on it ( ya, everyone is a racer and mechanic on the web) was spouting off the same BS as Mototune. They were so pissed that I suggest to follow the manufacturer's instructions when in doubt, that I was called every name under the book..LOL.
Glad I'm not alone in believing to generally follow the manufacturer's instructions. Page 98 of the Sept 04 Sport Rider mag may make those weekend warriors think also. They wont believe it from a local person, but maybe they'll believe it when they see it in a magazine.
btw, HAAAAAARRRR1s rule!!!
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whitesands26
Novice Class
Posts: 84
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posted July 07, 2004 11:11 PM
Do you also follow the owners manual's suggested oil and oil filter change intervals ?
If so, I feel sorry for the guy that purchases the bike second hand....
Point is...Not everything in your owners manual makes good sense and the oil change intervals are rediculous as is the "one liner break in procedure".....
Really, with a top speed in excess of 100mph in first gear....Do you really think that the owners manual will suggest any rpm above the speed limit ??? I don't think so...
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salsa1
Needs a life
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posted July 08, 2004 05:12 AM
 Edited By: salsa1 on 8 Jul 2004 10:42
ya know this topic will alwaya be split whitesands26; good point you are making.
I believe Yamaha allows for engine speeds up to 7000 rpm on their 2004 R1 as long as ya don't sustain that speed. This info came from a print of their guidelines for the 13,000 plus rpm R1 from Yamaha corporation few months back.
Note there there is no mention on how to avoid cylinder wall glazing or the benefit of deliberate (timed and controlled) heat cycles in the Kawasaki "book".
what does that tell us........
Not rocket science for me to make better yet safe choices rather than the "book"
anymore. Kawasaki "Book" is not defined technically enough to start with.
My ZX-10R has over 3000 miles now and engine has gotten better all along. Good enough that I will wait till 4000 miles and let it break in more before switching to synthetic.
Thasts my personal choice of course.
Transmision is another consideration of break in; it takes longer to break in at least according to my research. It too has gotten sweeter. I never got crazy as some "by the book" folks would lead to believe. 4000 miles should be more than enough before switching to synthetic.
I agree with book doers on this much: I would not recomend hitting redline and mindlessly running amuck from day one;I would not anyways.
Hopefully there will be more technical support from Kawasaki in the future.
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Have fun;stay alive.
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Hamilton
Novice Class
Posts: 49
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posted July 08, 2004 11:05 AM
The R1 break-in procedure makes much more sense; Kawasaki needs to loosen the ropes a bit, IMO.
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k bryant
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posted July 08, 2004 06:54 PM
Two simply points;
If you ask for an opinion - you'll get 1 or 1000. It's up to you to decide what works best or sounds best for you.
It's YOUR 10. You do whatever you want to do with it. And it really doesn't matter what anyone else's opinion really is... because it's not their 10. 
Peace.
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whitesands26
Novice Class
Posts: 84
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posted July 08, 2004 08:49 PM
Edited By: whitesands26 on 8 Jul 2004 21:49
Opinions can be wrong....And I think that the owners manual is not opinion but more of "protect yourself" or pay the price type of deal.........For the manufacturer
Go ahead an go 4, 5 or 7,000 miles between oil changes..Go ahead and Go 8,000 miles between oil changes...
The truth is that oil in your motor will be less degraded at 1,000 miles than at 4,000....Logic assumes that the oil protects your motor more at 1,000 than at 4,000 miles.....
So, if protecting your motor is an issue...Should you change it closer to the 1000 mile mark or 4,000 ? Logic should conclude you to change it earlier than 4,000...
Should I sweep a floor with a small broom or a big broom...One guy says the small broom will be more efficient but I say the big broom will be more efficient. You get more dirt with one sweep with the big broom than you will with the small broom.
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salsa1
Needs a life
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posted July 09, 2004 05:23 AM
Edited By: salsa1 on 9 Jul 2004 06:28
I choose the medium sized broom......
One mans weeded out fact (or personal best choice) can be just an opinion to another....such is life. Life goes on..
Opposing views motivated me to dig deeper and am more satisfied now so in the end I can say "thank you all" regardless.
I suspect (somehow??) hehe this topic will continue to resurface.
Have a great weekend!
Have fun;stay alive.
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crispin
Expert Class
Posts: 288
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posted July 09, 2004 10:11 AM
Yea this topic will always get alot of action.
I choose to break-in my stuff on the hard side. Always have and it works for me.
I do change the sh*t out of the oil.
I have 1400 miles and have changed the oil twice already.
I dyno'd my bike at 200 miles and look forward to dynoing it again soon.
If I have the same or less HP than I may be inclined to say my break-in procedure is not great.
If I have more then it will be hard to convince me that I did something wrong with the break-in.
To each his own
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04 ZX10-R Blue
slightly mod'd...
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Dirtybill
Needs a job
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posted July 09, 2004 12:04 PM
quote:
Do you also follow the owners manual's suggested oil and oil filter change intervals ?
If so, I feel sorry for the guy that purchases the bike second hand....
Point is...Not everything in your owners manual makes good sense and the oil change intervals are rediculous as is the "one liner break in procedure".....
Really, with a top speed in excess of 100mph in first gear....Do you really think that the owners manual will suggest any rpm above the speed limit ??? I don't think so...
From the 02 R1 owner's manual:
"0-600 miles- Avoid prolonged operation above 6000 rpm."
"600-1000miles- Avoid prolonged operation above 7000 rpm"
"After 600 miles of operation, the engine oil and oil filter must be replaced."
Engine oil is should be replaced every 4000 miles after that with the oil filter being replaced every 8000 miles. I see no reason that would harm the engine, especially using Semi synth or full synth oil. But as I'll be at the shop to buy oil, I get the oil filter also and replace it at every oil change. I think someone who would be in the market for my used bike would end up with a long lasting machine. And for the record, if I'm bored and there's a couple of thousand miles on the bike since the last oil filter and change, I'll change it early.
Would you like to see the schedule for a Guzzi V11 Sport? Engine oil is separate (dry clutch) from the gearbox.
btw, 6 and 7000 rpm on an R1 is well above the speed limit.
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worm~hole
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Miles to go before I sleep....
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posted July 09, 2004 12:23 PM
...small broom, medium broom, big broom...my answer sucks...it may even blow...but I'm using a Wet/Dry ShopVac
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Dirtybill
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posted July 09, 2004 12:54 PM
quote:
...small broom, medium broom, big broom...my answer sucks...it may even blow...but I'm using a Wet/Dry ShopVac
Ya, but how many HP does it put out?
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whitesands26
Novice Class
Posts: 84
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posted July 09, 2004 01:52 PM
That's the thing.....Why is Yamaha the only manufacturer giving a more detailed break in procedure ?
They should all be a little more explanitory like the one that came in the Yamaha sevice bulletin.
No matter what bike we get, maybe we should follow Yamaha's recommendations...The best I've seen from any manufacturer.
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Dirtybill
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posted July 09, 2004 09:53 PM
Like the other guys said, your bike, do it your way, but I have no reason to believe that following (loosely) the manufacturer's break in will produce lower HP numbers than no run in at all, which is basically what Mototune advocates. And I think if you plan to keep the bike for a while, at least I would be more comfortable doing that way.
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salsa1
Needs a life
Posts: 5971
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posted July 13, 2004 05:38 AM
Edited By: salsa1 on 13 Jul 2004 09:00
Consider break in this way: (little broom method)=
Lots of highway droning in top gear; always keep below 4,000 rpm with little or no varying of engine speed and thus poor loading or no heat cycles...
here lies a lack of instructions from Kawasaki for many of us.......
I believe an engine builder or anyone who cares will avoid the above method and give better information yet many have done as above for lack of knowing better or whatever reason. Including me (14 years ago). oh well....
How does wet /dry shop vac vacume work?? sounds interesting.
hehe.
Have fun ;Stay alive.
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swft
Needs a life
Full throttle!
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posted July 13, 2004 08:08 AM
How often do you change the filter in that vac?? 
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big daddy
Zone Head
Posts: 616
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posted July 13, 2004 02:33 PM
every 20hrs of operation. BTW mines a 2.5hp and supplies all the suck i need or want. 
BD
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