BIKEMIKE
Novice Class
Posts: 60
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posted June 28, 2004 06:40 AM
Reposition throttle/clutch assemblies?
Another new guy, got my black ZX10R last week. I'm learning a lot here and appreciate all the help.
I wanted to try repositioning the controls to be above the top triple clamp, thus lowering the front by 13/16 of an inch and raising the bars by that much (I was going to lower the rear as well). Has anybody thought of doing this or tried it, do you thing it is possible?
I wanted to lower the bike by about one inch so I could touch flatfooted and try a more upright seating position, I haven't read all the posts, please steer me to the post that covers this if this is a repeat question.
Thanks,
Mike
  
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BIKEMIKE
Novice Class
Posts: 60
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posted June 28, 2004 08:09 AM
Correction: The front would be lowered by 13/16 of an inch, but the controls would be raised by 1-7/8 inches. (I think)
Mike
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top shelf
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted June 28, 2004 06:28 PM
Not a real good idea unless you are cruising on the thing. These bikes get REAL nervous when you start dropping the front like that. On my race bike, I have extended the forks 10mm as well as lowered bike in the back (taken the spacer out from above the shock clevis) to make it more stable. I am runnig slicks that are much bigger than stock so please don't use these adjustments as a guideline, but dropping the bike that much in the front will make it very nervous particularly on the brakes
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big daddy
Zone Head
Posts: 616
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posted June 28, 2004 07:18 PM
Topshelf
So these are the top secret tweeks that have transpired over the last few weeks eah?? ie lowering the tubes through the clamp 10mm (effectively raising the front end) and lowering the rear by removing the spacer....WOW!! these changes defy conventional wisdom yes?
BD
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bovinespongiformencephalo
Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
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posted June 28, 2004 08:24 PM
They put the spacer in there for a reason.
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1bad7
Expert Class
Posts: 388
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posted June 28, 2004 09:48 PM
When I went with the Supercorsa's 190/55 and 120/70, the front ended up being 1mm smaller and the back was 6cm 1mm taller which meant that all is good with the planets, much better in the turns and still pretty stable all around. Just my .02
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BIKEMIKE
Novice Class
Posts: 60
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posted June 28, 2004 11:40 PM
I think it is possible to do if I move the brake fluid res. toward the center of the bike for clearance at the windscreen. The front would be lowered about an inch and I would lower the rear to match. I would just lose ground clearance of one inch, on the street this shouldn't be a problem, would it?
Mike
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Michael Lee
Zone Head
Purchase Ivy
Posts: 729
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posted June 29, 2004 03:32 AM
Give it a shot, ya may have to do something with the side stand. I have seen bikes lowered more than that on the tubes; but I would lower the rear a bit as well. Just use care on your initial rides until you get use to the different feel. There is a bolt under the handlebars that will not be of use anymore (I think it is mainly for aligning the bars evenly) but like most clip-ons just a good tightning of the pinchbolt will keep them in place. As long as ya don't butcher up anything (like the brake resovoir bracket) you can always take it back. Good Luck and take your time
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spankedyourazzinBH
Parking Attendant
Posts: 20
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posted June 29, 2004 05:13 AM
quote:
Not a real good idea unless you are cruising on the thing. These bikes get REAL nervous when you start dropping the front like that. On my race bike, I have extended the forks 10mm as well as lowered bike in the back (taken the spacer out from above the shock clevis) to make it more stable. I am runnig slicks that are much bigger than stock so please don't use these adjustments as a guideline, but dropping the bike that much in the front will make it very nervous particularly on the brakes
Ditto
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bovinespongiformencephalo
Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
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posted June 29, 2004 07:50 AM
It should work. The bike has a lot of ground clearance. I would definitely get a steering damper though. Make sure it will clear the bars and fork tubes or to be safe get a Scotts. Be sure to get that spacer out of the upper shock mount too. You might also look at getting a shorter shock and shimming the mount accordingly. It's not "one to one" at the back. 3mm of shim or shock length might net you 10mm of ride height. To work on the rear try using a 3/8" piece of steel rod through the swingarm pivot shaft supported by jackstands. Get the stands as close to the bike as you can. The drag fags have suspension links for lowering the back that might be a lot easier and offer adjustment. Might be worth a look. If you plan on getting the upper triple clamp back on after you remove it to get the bars off, you want zero weight on the front suspension. That means hanging the bike from above or putting a stand under the collector as suggested in the manual. Good luck.
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BIKEMIKE
Novice Class
Posts: 60
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posted June 29, 2004 10:49 AM
Thank you,
I was going to get an adjustable link to lower the rear and an adjustable kickstand.
Mike
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top shelf
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted June 30, 2004 08:11 AM
BD- These are straight from within the factory Kawi Roadrace team. PM me and I'll share more if you are interested. Bovine, yes it is there for a reason on a bike with stock tires. As soon as you change them particularly to any of the new crop of 190 race tires, the geometry becomes too aggressive, hence the headshake issues. Yes a steering damper will help, but will not cure the problem.
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