entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted October 07, 2003 03:15 PM
another lockup thread: tuning hints??
I put my MTC 2 stage lockup in today and it works fine, although not yet to the track. I noticed that at less than 50mph there is no increase in clutch pull, so i put it on a rear stand, 6th gear, and ran up the mph until i could feel the clutch starting to get firmer. It didn't get firmer until 100mph or so.
Q: what approx mph should the lockup start to work at???
I have 2 little bags with .050" and .025" spring shims, so I guess I can shim the springs to have it lock up sooner???
Anyway, I am running the Texas 1 mile top end shootout in late Oct and all I need for it it to lock up at high speeds, so I guess it is doing that.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
  
|
addisonzx12
Expert Class
Posts: 213
|
posted October 07, 2003 03:49 PM
The lockup works by rpm, ie. 5k, Not speed. Meaning it will start to engage at about 5k no matter what gear you are in. Except neutral, natch.
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted October 07, 2003 04:18 PM
addison,
OK, I gottcha, as long as the clutch is engaged, it will lockup at the same rpm no matter what gear its in. I wasn't thinking it thru.
Thanks 
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
Cmarsh93z
Novice Class
Posts: 44
|
posted October 08, 2003 07:41 AM
Ive noticed that it doesnt lock at a certain rpm point, but a certain part of the track each time. Its rotating force that swings the lockup out. Inertia of the wheel if Im not mistaken. Whenever the clutch has enough torque on it, it locks it. Karl, the shims are for adjusting STATIC spring pressure. The only way to adjust the snowflake, is by adding and taking away bolts and washers.... and fiddling with static pressure. what springs do you have behind the lockup? In reality, you want it to slip initialling a tiny bit so the tire will hook, and then lock when your past the torque peak so you will haul ass without wheelieing.....So your probably gonna need to get some lightmedium springs from MTC or something to that matter and try them out. Or you can cut a coil or two off the stock springs, and start shimming, until you get it right.....
Im lucky with my busa, the soft springs MTC has work PERFECT, everytime...
|
ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
|
posted October 08, 2003 08:03 AM
A good test would be to leave it in netural and gas it .
See if the clutch gets harder at higher rpm, and no wheel speed,
then do the same in 5 or 6 gear on a stand.
Let us know. I've heard both ideas before.
Which is true RPM or wheel speed ?
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted October 08, 2003 08:23 AM
Nick,
MTC said use the OEM Kwakers; they are very light in comparison to my Muzzys. I would guess that stouter springs would enable the lockup to start locking up earlier by applying its pressure to harder springs. ?????
ninja,
that i have thought about it (thx addison), the clutch will lock up anytime the prtessure plate is rotating fast enough to push out the "arms". This could happen in neutral with the clutch engaged or could happen in any gear with the clutch engaged, but as pointed out above will happend when the engine reaches a certain rpm, obviously at different speeds in different gears.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
Cmarsh93z
Novice Class
Posts: 44
|
posted October 09, 2003 10:03 AM
I understand Karl, but when you throw the clutch without a lockup on it, with stock kawi springs, does it slip? No it doesnt....so how will it slip when you throw it now? Im just saying, when I buy a multi, its so I can tune it and have no use for a clutch.....I want to throw this bitch and get 1.40 60fts EVERYTIME. Thats why you use a little less static pressure, throw this thang at a certain rpm and twist the gas, and let the lockup do the grabbing for ya....
The lockup will work fine how you have it, but you will have to adjust your riding accordingly....pretty much the only thing you bought it for using it this way was to eliminate slip at the top end, ya know? You should be at 67inches or so now, I dont see any reason you can't pull a 1.40 or even a 1.39 with the right setup. If it wheelies on hard 60fters, put a little ballast on the front....
I know they are pros guys, but 60 inchers are now pulling low 1.40s....even the straight .40s!
Nick
|
Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
|
posted October 09, 2003 10:21 AM
At 67-68 inch wheelbase I would suggest stock springs for static pressure.Should be able to throw the clutch away and it should slip enough with your big motor.
|
ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
|
posted October 09, 2003 07:24 PM
throw it away ...@ what launch rpm?
|
Cmarsh93z
Novice Class
Posts: 44
|
posted October 10, 2003 08:01 AM
I cant tell you what launch RPM....you are gonna have to do some testing and figure out what rpm gives you the best 60 and 330....its all about track testing guys....we can talk about it all day long, but it doesnt make you faster.
Nick
|
Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
|
posted October 10, 2003 12:30 PM
I'd start around 4500rpm-5000rpm and tune from there.You need a nlr 2 step now because i found it almost impossible to hold consistent rpm and get full throttle at the same time.
|
mack
Novice Class
Posts: 60
|
posted October 11, 2003 04:55 PM
Can someone please give me the phone # to MTC or were to get one.Thank you.
|
Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
|
posted October 12, 2003 08:52 AM
321-636-9480
|
mack
Novice Class
Posts: 60
|
posted October 12, 2003 09:04 AM
Thank you,Cowboy.
|
dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
|
posted October 13, 2003 12:28 PM
 Edited By: dougmeyer on 13 Oct 2003 13:29
I hear the question, but, like a story problem in 3rd grade, there is extraneous info that confuses the answer.
It is, of course, ultimately engine speed that spins the basket/hub less the primary ratio drop, when the clutch is engaged in neutral (or in any gear with the clutch engaged). But I say wheel speed is most important because, in neutral, as soon as you disengage the clutch the hub (and lock up weights) slow and STOP, thereby preventing continued wear on the pull rod and actuator shaft. When the wheel speed is high the hub and weights continue to spin at that high rpm as long as the clutch is pulled, until either neutral is selected or the wheel stops, therein stressing the rod and shaft assembly.
Doug
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC