your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted June 26, 2003 07:46 AM
Solenoid Problem
Well I think ive finally found the cause of my solenoid not firing problem.
Voltage!
Ive tried tapping both the taillight power..and the headlight power...but both seem to be right on the borderline of having enough juice(while the bike is running) to fire the solenoid. Basically the noid itself needs alot more power to fire when there is nitrous pressure in the line vs when its just sitting still. (yea i know it seems trivial now...but it wasnt something I ever thought about).
Anywhoo, last night I could fire the noid fine while the bike was off..and no pressure...as soon as I barely even cracked the bottle open even the slightest bit...the noid would cease to fire. Start the bike...same issue....rev up the bike to about 9 grand...and click...it fires.
So basically I have two possible causes/effects/solutions.
1. Both the taillight and the Headlight circuits just barely flow enough to fire the noid under no pressure.
2. I chose my splice wire poorly and its too thin to supply the noid with enough juice (although its the same gauge stuff that comes off the noid itself.
My solution is going to be to run a nice thick gauge wire directly off the battery itself (no more key on stuff)...to one of the unused poles of my 6pole switch. Then put the noid on the other end of the switch. This way flipping the switch foward (which arms the system anyway) should now supply 12V power directly from the battery to the noid.
If I dont get enough juice there....I dunno what to do next...tap directly into the line comin off the stator?
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
   
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted June 26, 2003 09:56 AM
This is common, I've seen it on three bikes with both NX and NOS brand solenoids used in dry kits. Run a power lead straight from the battery or at least use a relay to supply power directly to the solenoid.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
|
posted June 26, 2003 10:20 AM
what I find really weird is that it just kinda "happened" I mean one day the N.O.S solenoid is working fine...next day...nothing (and nothing since) I replaced it with a compucar one and get the same results.
Wonder why it would all the sudden stop working? Stator? Battery? Earths Polarity changed? Not enough busa meat?
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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harryzx-12
Needs a job
Posts: 3643
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posted June 26, 2003 10:31 AM
Did you run juice on any of your passes last night?
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"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways- Body thoroughly used up, totally worn out...Screaming "WOO HOO, What a Ride !!!"
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
|
posted June 26, 2003 12:07 PM
shit no....Tried to in the last few passes but still couldnt get it to work right.
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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moonzx12
Expert Class
Posts: 153
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posted June 26, 2003 12:14 PM
maybe thats my problem ibeen using the blu/w wire from the starter
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted June 26, 2003 02:34 PM
A REAL wet system uses a HeavyDuty Relay (20?-30? amp) with a good size wire from the battery for power supply. I don't have my instructions in front of me to tell you exactly what size but...it's at least 20amp...
I think your idea will work...Is it a "good" switch???
I'll spend 7 to 10$ on a good high quality, high amp switch any day so I don't have to worry about stuff like this for YEARS...
I have 20amp Silver contact switches on my DragBike...even for the tail light...NO problems with power or vi-bration on my bike  
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
|
posted June 26, 2003 03:39 PM
dunno..its the 6 pole switch that came with the dry kit. Its supposed to supply the power to the noid (if you wire it using the starter) however I have it wired using the horn ground. So I dont think it would be a problem.
Hell..cant be any worse than it is now eh?
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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