01zx12r
Expert Class
Posts: 338
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posted May 15, 2003 05:44 PM
Nos users...????
Im curious on how many people are using Nos on their bikes. What spark plugs are you using? Nylon lines or steel lines at nozzles? Thanks for the input 
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Lovett Racing/Pedigo Performance
8.40 @170
  
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted May 15, 2003 05:52 PM
YCIS uses the nylon "line" (ONE nozzel in air-box)...
I'm going to use braided on John's...THAT'S why it's not done yet...I need to MAKE the lines how I want them...
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted May 15, 2003 06:08 PM
I have both, nylon on the green bike NOS brand #34 jet dry, schnitz kit, CR10 plugs (colder and non platinum)
on the silver bike the new schnitz dry kit now comes with braided lines, and NX brand pills, #28 jet, no pc3, stock plugs
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zrxdean
Needs a job
Posts: 2225
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posted May 15, 2003 06:31 PM
Steel lines (NX kit), CR10EK plugs
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 15, 2003 06:49 PM
I also use CR10EKs
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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01zx12r
Expert Class
Posts: 338
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posted May 15, 2003 07:03 PM
Im adding a wet kit to my silver bike with the mtc clutch. Going to set it up at 60hp and use a schnitz controller. Have used nos on cars in the past but as you all know the bike thing im still learning on. I want 8's this year
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Lovett Racing/Pedigo Performance
8.40 @170
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted May 15, 2003 08:45 PM
braided lines would be better but a little harder to work with in small places.
Chris if your still up check your e-mail.I'm installing the mtc lockup(last minute of course)and i have some questions before i run tomorrow.
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted May 15, 2003 08:47 PM
I'D go one step colder on the plugs also and run c-16.With only a 60 shot the most i'd retard the timing is -2 degrees
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Bossman69
Novice Class
Posts: 58
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posted May 18, 2003 10:40 PM
I'm running cr10 plugs, Bear wet stacks 60 shoot with nylon lines and the MTC multi if I can get it installed. I need to get a gauge and measure the stack because it has more than the .125 clearance.
Cowboy on the timming you mean if I'm at +5 go to +3, right?
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8.99 @ 162 02 zx12 Gotta Love NOS
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jimo
Parking Attendant
Posts: 6
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posted May 19, 2003 03:21 AM
Bossman,
If you are going to run 60 hp of juice, your safest bet would be to retard -2 from the STOCK setting, NOT from your advanced setting. The difference in performance is minimal, but the extra advance could be detrimental to your pistons. Pistons with holes in them don't even make good ashtrays.
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted May 19, 2003 09:08 AM
Jimo is exactly right Bossman.Also if you have more than .125 clearance for your lockup add a 2 mm steel to the pack and then recheck the clearance.Then check the angle of your actuating arm.I had to go up to a 2.283 clutch pack to get my angle on the actuating arm acceptable because my puller shaft is a tad short.Now i only have about ..075 clearance but it got me through the night of racing.
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Bossman69
Novice Class
Posts: 58
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posted May 19, 2003 09:23 AM
I will add a steel, but what kind of angle are you talking about and how do I know if I am right?
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8.99 @ 162 02 zx12 Gotta Love NOS
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 09:33 AM
Think he is talking about the angle of the puller arm in relation to the "notch" in the puller shaft.
If you picture the arm having that notch where it should grab the puller shaft....the arm should be adjusted so that its not actually engaging the puller shaft at all (or at least very very little) when the clutch is disengaged. You should be able to do this within the tolerances of both the clutch adjustment screws (on the handlebars and on the clutch cover).
If the angle is too great...you are always engaged with the puller shaft...I would assume this would most certainly cause premature failure of the components.
If the angle is too shallow...you wont fully disengage the clutch when you pull the lever in.
At least this is what I think he was tryin to say
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 09:36 AM
I also disagree with the steel lines being better.
Perhaps they are stronger...but the nylon lines have even more strength than even the bottle itself..and certainly more than the pressure relief valve (trust me on this one  )
Not to mention you are only subjecting that line to say 900psi for less than 10 seconds at a time. Im pretty sure that line would easily outlast most of your engine components.
Its also cheaper, easier to work with, lighter, and much easier to hide
I see no benefts to the stainless line other than strength....and in this case...both are more than adequate to do the job.
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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AnotherRedHead
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted May 19, 2003 09:50 AM
Nylon looks like shit....I have NX braided line wet kit. NOS wet kit looks crappy with black lines everywhere. Its ok I guess, both will get the job done, but the NX system comes with bad ass distribution blocks and stuff. It was a no brainer for me....
Nick
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 11:43 AM
*shrug....I dont even notice the single nylon line going from the noid to the airbox. I dont see how it could be considered "looking like shit".
I guess if it was a multi stage setup with lines everywhere that would look a bit messy.
Its all under the tank cover anyway...what it looks like isnt all that big of a concern to me.
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted May 19, 2003 11:50 AM
YCIS,we are discussing a wet system and i believe you are thinking dry.The advantages for running steel braided lines or steel hard lines is that if,by mistake, you have the plastic lines resting on something hot you could have a nasty fire.
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Cowboy
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted May 19, 2003 12:14 PM
Bossman,make sure your clutch pack is on the high side of the manual specs(2.24-2.27 inches).Then go from there.
Start a new thread if you have any problems.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 12:36 PM
Oh...I musta missed where he asked about the wet setup...my bad...I skim alot
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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zrxdean
Needs a job
Posts: 2225
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posted May 19, 2003 12:49 PM
Not to jump on the anti-skimmer bandwagon , but another advantage of steel lines is that you can retighten them indefinitely - not so with the plastic lines. Not a big deal with a dry kit you might 'set and forget', but for incessant fiddlers like myself, gotta have steel lines.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 12:50 PM
Why cant you retighten them?? 
Ive removed and reinstalled the compression fittings on both the nozzle...and the solenoid without problem.
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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zrxdean
Needs a job
Posts: 2225
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posted May 19, 2003 02:10 PM
I haven't experienced this myself, but according to Dave Schnitz the plastic lines can only be re-crimped so many times - as their diameter gets a bit smaller each time they are tightened. The connectors tighten by compressing the lines against a beveled surface, but when the they're loosened, the lines don't pop back to their original diameter. So the next time the line gets a bit smaller to get airtight again, etc etc. You could leave a little extra length when you size them the first time - and trim them every now and then, or I guess just replace the lines - the stuff's pretty cheap. If you're only gonna swap pills a few times, I can't imagine it'll be much of a problem, but Dave's point was that after a bunch of retightening, the line diameter could determine flow rate, not the pill size.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted May 19, 2003 03:41 PM
interesting....I took a look at the "beveled" fitting each time I removed the ends...they have basically become one with the nylon line...I never really torque them down as its not required on a fitting like this..so perhaps ive not experienced the issue he mentions.
You would have to get the line down pretty frikkin small to get smaller than the jet itself
not to say it cant happen though....I have no doubt that someone has experienced that problem!
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted May 19, 2003 05:43 PM
'You would have to get the line down pretty frikkin small to get smaller than the jet itself '
Or a really big jet. I can't see you shooting that much on a street bike.
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ZXALAN
Expert Class
Posts: 156
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posted May 20, 2003 11:48 AM
Go with the stainless lines, those nylon lines are total shit!
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