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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: degreeing cams on 12 NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
moonzx12


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Posts: 153
posted April 15, 2003 10:56 AM        Edited By: moonzx12 on 15 Apr 2003 12:18
Degreeing Cams on 12

how hard is it to set up the dial indicator with the motor still on the bike?(pics would be nice)

how is access the bucket are to measure clearence
what are some good numbers for a stock motor

thanks for all the input
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted April 15, 2003 11:29 AM        
Here is a pic of the area you would have to work with (with the motor still in the bike)


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MadMike


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posted April 15, 2003 11:45 AM        
it can be done but it is a pain! I would build a fixture
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zrxdean


Needs a job
Posts: 2225
posted April 15, 2003 11:56 AM        
krexken posted some pics once of how he mounted an indicator. Here's his blurb on how to degree cams, in case anyone needs a clear rehash. The 103/105 numbers are for the ZRX by the way.

"Ever degreed cams before? It's a tedious job and one that has to done perfectly to get correct numbers. Muzzy recommends 103/105, intake /exhaust. Usually this will give you more midrange than the stock 100/105 settings with these cams.
 
First step is to find TDC. Easiest way for me is to use a piston stop. APE sells a nice 10mm one or you can make one by knocking out the guts from a spark plug, cramming a tap though it, then screwing a 40-50mm bolt through it. Run your piston up to it both directions. Right in the middle is TDC(middle of the spot that you can't roll the engine through). Fab a pointer and set it.
 
Next you'll need to dial indicate on the retainer. Try to get the indicator as parallel as possible with the valve stem. A tip extension will probably be necessary. Mount the mag base on a piece of metal bolted down to something on the head. Something solid, of course. Rotate the engine several times to make sure the indicator always zeros. When checking, always rotate the engine it's normal direction. Make sure chain tensioner is installed. I rotate the motor by turning the front sprocket nut.
 
Do the exhaust cam first.
 
Rotate the engine until .050 lift is achieved. Read degree wheel(write this stuff down). Continue rotating engine until .050 lift is achieved on the closing side of the lobe, or rather the valve is .050 from being seated. Read degree wheel.
 
Now the math part. Add the two readings together, add 180 to that number, divide by 2, then subtract the first number which should be the smaller number. This is your centerline. ex. 51(first number)+81(second reading)+180(constant)=312. Divide 312 by 2=156. Subtract 51(first reading) from 156=105(centerline).
 
Before you start moving the cams on the sprockets, scribe a little line across the cam and sprocket so it's a little easier to move the cam in small increments and also so you don't lose you starting point. Sometimes the cams will jump naked when you loosen the sprocket bolts. Good luck and double check you findings, especially TDC. I doubt your jetting needs will change much with the cams."


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zxlnt


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Posts: 2853
posted April 16, 2003 01:24 PM        
Moon I just happened to have snapped a few pics while degreeing the cams.






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moonzx12


Expert Class
Posts: 153
posted April 17, 2003 02:58 AM        
thanks for the responces. I was wondering if anyone had it setup with the motor in the bike. Just wondering how much hassle involved
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