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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: - Upgrading 12R Fuel System/Questions - NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
Shane661


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Posts: 11494
posted April 03, 2011 06:30 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Apr 2011 15:32
- Upgrading 12R Fuel System/Questions -

So, I am going to upgrade the fuel system on my 2002 Ace Performance motored 1287. I have decided to use a spare "A" model tank that I have, as I have some spare "A" model pump bases and parts. I was just going to crush my stock regulator on the "B" model pump, but that experiment failed, lol. Honestly, I never was really excited about doing it that way anyway.

I found a spare Muzzy Pump in the stuff Karl sent me (talk about a treasure trove/history museum!):



I have a few questions:

#1 - Should the base on the pump sit on the base of the frame? Or is it prudent to let it sit a little off of the bottom for flow??

#2 What is that little thing??



#3 Is this just a filter? I was thinking to remove it and run an external filter if that is the case?



The pump is marked GSS340, btw. I may be doing some other things such as replacing the injectors, depending on my hp goals (the engine is set up safe for nitrous, and I have a nice dry setup I could use). Obviously I will also be adding an external adjustable regulator with return (the "A" model fuel tank has a return port on the bottom).

Shane

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Phantom13


Zone Head
Posts: 736
posted April 03, 2011 09:18 AM        
That Muzzy pump is overkill for your set-up, rated at 450-500rwhp if I'm not mistaken. It's mainly for turbo's but works fine in N/A and Nitrous applications. Personally, I'd go with the Walbro GSS242, that's what Dale and I run in ours. Rated for like 350rwhp and draws less juice than the GSS340 if my memory serves me correctly, something to consider if you're going to be running solenoids, datalogger, head/tail lights, etc... But again, the Muzzy pump will work perfectly as well.

I'd run the filter off the pump lower towards the bottom (but not sitting on the base) so that you don't suck up air when accelerating or a hard lean into a turn with low fuel. I cut out the bottom plate thing that's restricting it on mine, works great. Just make sure to inspect and clean the filter every so often. Sitting at the bottom of the tank, it gets dirty.

As for the injectors and dry kit.... You have a PM.
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Shane661


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Posts: 11494
posted April 03, 2011 09:51 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 3 Apr 2011 18:24
I agree that the 340 pump is overkill. I'm just so broke right now that I am trying to use what I have on hand, if it can serve the purpose reliably. Maybe someone will buy this 340 and I can get the 242 at some point...

Got your pm, thanks!

Shane

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tcchin


Zone Head
Posts: 867
posted April 03, 2011 12:04 PM        
quote:
#1 - Should the base on the pump sit on the base of the frame? Or is it prudent to let it sit a little off of the bottom for flow??

#2 What is that little thing??

#3 Is this just a filter? I was thinking to remove it and run an external filter if that is the case?

The pump is marked GSS340, btw. I may be doing some other things such as replacing the injectors, depending on my hp goals (the engine is set up safe for nitrous, and I have a nice dry setup I could use). Obviously I will also be adding an external adjustable regulator with return (the "A" model fuel tank has a return port on the bottom).


It's better to put the base of the pump in contact with the base of the frame to stabilize it. The filters are designed with built-in structures to maintain flow and eliminate contact restriction of the inlet.

The #2 thing is a fuel level sensor that triggers the low fuel light. You can bypass it if it bugs you or if your wiring harness doesn't support it. It does no harm to leave it intact.

That is a fuel filter, but kind of a special one. It's a difficult-to-find-in-the-aftermarket combination of high flow capacity and high filtration efficiency for fuel injection. It's unlikely that you will find a better filter in the aftermaket. Keeping the filter in the tank keeps the fuel cooler, too.

Since you have so much room inside the tank and such a large opening for the fuel pump assembly, you can run an in-tank adjustable regulator and not worry about exposing your fuel lines to the heat of the engine compartment. There are several manufacturers of compact regulators that will work nicely for this application. Pressures are variable from 3 to 6 bar.


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