aliveagain
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posted September 02, 2010 07:57 AM
gas lock?
My bike runs great and starts right up. That is when cold. If I ride it 5 min. and stop for gas or what ever, the bike won't start. If I let it cool, the bike will start again. Someone suggested that I insulate the fuel lines. Has anyone ever had this as a problem?
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Stuart Racing
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posted September 02, 2010 09:10 AM
How old is the battery???? I know you think it`s fuel but I had the same thing and I put a new battery in and it cured the problem......
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aliveagain
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posted September 02, 2010 12:15 PM
The battery is probably two years old. It will spin the motor fairly good provided I crack the throttle to lower the compression. I haven't put a meter on it because like Uncle Murphy, it has always done this while on the road.
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Stuart Racing
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posted September 02, 2010 03:03 PM
Try a new battery first. You shouldn`t need to have to open the throttle. 2 years it might be worth it to try a new one.....JMO......
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gixxre750
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posted September 03, 2010 01:48 PM
or the starter could be going bad. when they get hot, they are harder to turn over
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KZScott
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posted September 03, 2010 02:01 PM
dont you have 2 batteries and 24v?
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krexken
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posted September 03, 2010 02:20 PM
How old is the fuel? I ask because I had a 12 bout drive me nuts because it wouldn't fire when hot. Turned over fine, just wouldn't crank. Turned out to be old fuel, oxygenated, I believe. I had set a month of two before he brought it to me.
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aliveagain
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posted September 06, 2010 11:42 AM
quote:
dont you have 2 batteries and 24v?
I have been running 12v for awhile and this happened after the last HG fix. It is a new used starter. Maybe I need to pull it again and check the commutator and brushes. If I get a new battery, I was thinking of going with those lithium ferrous battery. Was there someone on this site who sold these?
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BrooklynNYZX12
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posted September 06, 2010 04:03 PM
Sounds like a bad battery.
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NINJA12
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posted September 07, 2010 09:43 AM
High Compression and valve timing can cause this.
Big motors rarely get away with 1 battery.
anything bigger than 1270 gave me problems when hot.
Fast by gast battery or 24v starting. 24v is too easy and cheap. IMO
I also had to crack the throttle when hot without 24v.
If you miss starting the first time you have to wait until the battery builds up and the bike cools.
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aliveagain
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posted September 07, 2010 02:44 PM
I just splurged on the cc for a 9.2 speedcell from Orient Express. We will see how this works.
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aliveagain
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posted September 08, 2010 02:00 PM
Balls!!! It still will not start after the bike is ran for awhile.$425 battery spins the engine good but it won't fire.
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NINJA12
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posted September 08, 2010 07:43 PM
Has to spin min rpm before it fires. go to walmart get the smallest 12v battery they carry about $30. and 1 cables. disconnect the original cable from the starter and run it to the neg on the small battery, run the new cable from the pos post to the starter. 24 v starting.
Be SURE to keep the little battery charged.
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entropy
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posted September 08, 2010 08:52 PM
quote:
Has to spin min rpm before it fires. go to walmart get the smallest 12v battery they carry about $30. and 1 cables. disconnect the original cable from the starter and run it to the neg on the small battery, run the new cable from the pos post to the starter. 24 v starting.
Be SURE to keep the little battery charged.
yes, yes, yes, and yes.
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aliveagain
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posted September 09, 2010 02:14 AM
I had the same issues with 24v system. And I only got 5 tries before the secondary battery went dead. That means it would take two tries to start at home and 2-3 tries when I got where I was going. If at best when I had to stop for gas. Not the way I want to ride. Besides, I had the battery mounted on the outside of the battery box which was a pain for tucking in.
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aliveagain
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posted September 09, 2010 02:14 AM
I still have to crack the throttle to get it to spin.
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entropy
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posted September 09, 2010 04:40 AM
Pete,
something else is wrong if the 24V system only lasts 5 starts unless the 2nd battery was VERY tiny. Mine will start it at least 20+ times and it starts immediately when you push the button.
It seems to me you psted something previously about having to turn it over a bunch before it started???
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Stuart Racing
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posted September 09, 2010 07:05 AM
Dammit Pete.....Sorry that you are having this problem..I know how much it make riding your bike a PITA......Must be a tune problem,too much compression(doubt that),cam timing???
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aliveagain
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posted September 09, 2010 08:33 AM
I was talking to a guy at work and he immediately responded - timing. He said this is a common pro stock symptom of hot hi compression motors. He said to retard the timing a little. I have an ignition module to put the timing back if this works. It can't hurt.
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entropy
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posted September 09, 2010 08:40 AM
yup taking timing out at 0 & 2%, 500-1500 rpm might help.
Do you know what yr fuel pressure is when you hit the key and the pump cycles, does it immediately come up to 40-45-ish psi?
Does it hold that pressure or does it bleed off quickly after the pump finishes cycling?
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aliveagain
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posted September 09, 2010 12:20 PM
Don't. know about the fuel pressure.I had a gauge on for awhile but didn't like the setup. Pressure was find then. Entropy's bike use to make me cringe. That sucker would fire after half a cycle.I would say to myself,how the hell !!!
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entropy
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posted September 09, 2010 11:30 PM
quote:
Don't. know about the fuel pressure.I had a gauge on for awhile but didn't like the setup. Pressure was find then. Entropy's bike use to make me cringe. That sucker would fire after half a cycle.I would say to myself,how the hell !!!
hey Pete,
our motors are basically very similar, yrs should start up quickly also.
On the different side, I run Jim's Stage 3 head, C-44, CR=16:1, cam CL's way low, an ARC-2, big injectors, adj fuel pressure reg & damn expensive plugs, but i dunno how those would start it quicker than yrs.
When hot, my motor absolutely will not start at all without 24V. And when #2 batt gets below 12.6V, it will not start
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aliveagain
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posted September 10, 2010 02:08 AM
I am using the same starter cable as with the 24v system I had on. I'm thinking of getting another one with new crimps. I was looking at the crimp on there now and it could be compromised with corrosion.I tried retarding the ignition and it started even harder. I had to finally charge the battery as it went too low.
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entropy
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posted September 10, 2010 04:38 AM
you need 24V, plain & simple.
i tried everything, bigger cables, HUGE battery, new starter, retarding adv, you name it.
24V cured my hot starting issues.
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Stuart Racing
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posted September 10, 2010 05:15 AM
There`s a guy on Dragbike.com that builds starters for race bikes,high compression motors(Paul Cashio) .Is his name...Might do a search on him.....Can build you a race starter that will spin over faster at 24 volts and will stat up your bike hot or cold....Check him out...
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