Learning2race
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted July 10, 2010 07:07 PM
msd sb6 input please!
I've been using this product in combination with an autoshift box and it's caused me tremendous frustration. I've consulted with the manufactures of both products, even sent them back for them to verify functionality, but still no luck. I'm hoping members here can lend some insight.
The problem is inconsistent shifting from 1st to second. Sometimes it works, other times it rattles away and bounces back to neutral. If it makes it into second gear, I have yet to miss any shift points beyond.
Here's what I've done/tested for:
- I thought of possible bent shift fork. The transmission foot shifts effortlessly under street/strip riding. If I turn the CO2 bottle off and bring the RPM up to the preset shift point (10,8000) RPM with my foot causing upward pressure on the shift lever, the shift occurs smoothly. I'm confident the shift forks are not the issue.
- I've adjusted the shift kill out as far as it will go (99msec) in an attempt to ensure a sufficiently long kill period - this does not seem to make any difference (the kill IS working as noted above, as I can footshift at the programmed RPM point without rolling off the throttle)
- I've adjusted the delay over a range of 10msec to 40msec with no effect
- I've drilled out the mounting bracket on the ram itself to the point of it being a "sloppy" connection - trying to reduce any type of binding by having to tight of tolerance at the mounting point
- I've mounted the other end of the ram on the shift lever so as to maximize the distance of the up stroke of the ram
I'm thoroughly confused! Electronically, the SB6 appears to work. Mechanically, the CO2 system is working (the ram activates at the shift point). Yet the two just don't seem to function together
I have noticed that I rarely have a shift problem if I set the shift point for lower RPM. It becomes very inconsistent at the high end.
My last thought is to pool other users to see what their set up involves. My interest is with the ignition curves. I'm wondering if mine is too aggressive towards the top end and the unit can't keep up. How long does it take your ignition curves to get to max RPM - 0.1, 0.2, 0.3.............? Is the slope of the curve gradual or near vertical as it approaches max RPM?
The other possibility is that the ram is not being held in place long enough for the shift to occur. Is there a setting (I am unaware of one) that adjusts the duration of the CO2 burst - if I could lengthen the time the ram is engaged, perhaps the gears will have time to mesh
Thoughts and feedback will be greatly appreciated.
  
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted July 10, 2010 08:39 PM
I may not have a sb6 but I had a similar problem like that. I solved mine by ensuring the plunger was set at the right place.( meaning I believe 1 1/2" out of the cylinder)
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 11, 2010 08:37 AM
is this a zx14?
First thing i will mention is if the tire is spinning that auto shift will create this problem, as it will shift at engine rpm, and when the power is killed, and the tire speed slows as it hooks , it will cause this problem. Blown shift.
Many people will tell you to get rid of that autoshift for this very reason as well as safety issues if you have enough power it will keep upshifting, then when it hooks eventually in a taller gear it will steer you into the wall or other lane.
what is your kill time? delay time?
how much HP are you trying to shift through?
Is the transmission back cut?
do you have billet shift shafts? or factory pro shift detent kit?
If the power is excessive, or the shift is too fast for full engauagment, as you describe occaisoionally occuring the cogs will round, and it will only get worse.
The stock shift fork shafts flex, this is why brock sells the billet shafts. shaft flex acts much like a bent shift fork.
The factory pro shift kit will allow the bike to shift faster and with better enguagement.
the stock trans will not hold much more than 300hp with out a backcut, and this varies on the condition of the cogs, the more shifts you miss the more round and worse the problem becomes.
some bikes are more prone to this than others.
the busa much more so than a 14 for example.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Stu64
Zone Head
Posts: 548
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posted July 11, 2010 05:35 PM
I had a separate shift kill box and was not using the msd for shifting and had the same problems. I removed the shift kill box and hooked up to the msd and the problem went away.Seems the msd interferes with the signal to the secondary kill box.
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kawa74
Expert Class
Posts: 226
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posted July 11, 2010 11:00 PM
1 to 2 shift is longest travel of cylinder. Shifter moves in a ARC . Be sure cylinder leans a little at the top toward shifter shaft , don't mount solid at top pivot, must be free to rotate . Make sure it pulls to inside of arc . May help to drill closer to shifter shaft , less travel , moves shifter farther and faster .
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"I have never met a man so Ignorant that I coun't Learn from him"..."Galileo"
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted July 12, 2010 11:12 AM
quote:
I had a separate shift kill box and was not using the msd for shifting and had the same problems. I removed the shift kill box and hooked up to the msd and the problem went away.Seems the msd interferes with the signal to the secondary kill box.
correct the msd and mps boxes don't play nice together
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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