Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 05:58 AM
- Engine Work Stands? -
I was wondering what type of stands or bench arrangements you guys use when working on an engine? I have seen some slick setups from time to time, but I can't remember just where.
Shane
  
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KZScott
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posted February 14, 2010 09:14 AM
i made a little stand about waist height out of steel tubing and 3/4 plywood top. its very handy(used for my builds and dads), but not ideal, i need to make a new one. for doing head stuff i use a shelf/bench i built on the shop wall at a nice height for working standing up without bending over. also plywood top. do not use a steel bench imo. too easy to dent aluminum on. ss is nice, but if i need a clean surface i just roll out some shop towels.
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woppi
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posted February 14, 2010 09:21 AM
with an flat oil pan - its easy to work at the engine!
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KZScott
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posted February 14, 2010 09:23 AM
without a flat pan, use wooden blocking to level the motor. you may want to fasten the blocking to the bench. i also find my small stand to be most useful when in the middle of the floor and i can access the motor from any angle
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
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woppi
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posted February 14, 2010 09:24 AM
use this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PRO-1000-ENGINE-STAND-HOIST-AUTOMOTIVE-TOOLS-LIFT_W0QQitemZ170445698145QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item27af5af461
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 09:24 AM
quote:
with an flat oil pan - its easy to work at the engine!
Still saving for that!  Plus I was thinking about a stand that would let me rotate the engine around?
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entropy
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posted February 14, 2010 09:41 AM
I had a stand especially made for the 12 and absolutely hated it. Restricted just about everything i wanted to do.
Like woppi says get a flat pan, doesn't have to be functional, just flat and broad.
I use my Koenig pan for bench work, and Coby pan for LSR.
before pulling the motor i pull the Coby pan and mount the Koenig with just a couple screws.
Big flat pan makes it very stable on the bench and under the bike when putting the motor back in.
If I didn't have the Koenig, i would buy a used OEM and fab up a koenig like base.
BTW the Coby is flat but not as wide as the Koenig and not as stable for bench work or putting back under the bike.
Shane
this "rotating around" biz is much, MUCH over rated. Any access you want is easily obtained on the bench.
AND, just try setting CL's on a stand. Every time you rotate the motor, everything wiggles.
Just my opinion.
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 09:43 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Feb 2010 17:45
I do have an Adams flat pan on the list, so that sounds like it will be the ticket. It is similar looking to your Koenig.
(Not my motor above, but you get the idea)
Shane
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entropy
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posted February 14, 2010 09:54 AM
Shane,
I assume that is a swivel pickup pan?
Be VERY VERY scrupulous about assuring that the swivel is clean and rotates freely, check it often.
It cost me $8000 to learn my lesson.
Karl
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 09:56 AM
No swivel, afaik. It has a trap door in the sump that closes under acceleration, keeping the oil near the pickup.
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 09:58 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Feb 2010 17:59
From Dubious's build thread:
quote:
Compared to the stock one which is zero inches deep at the flange and just a pocket in the corner...
windage tray with baffles. There is actully a trap door in the pan.
It looks like it closes when the bike is launched to prevent oil stavation... if you look close you might be able to see it partially open and closed in these 2 pics
part open
closed
feed port to pick up tube chamber as it may seem.
Beautiful piece.
Shane
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woppi
Pro
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posted February 14, 2010 10:05 AM
a nice one:
http://media.photobucket.com/image/4%20cylinder%20engine%20stand/octane98/1ae33ab7.jpg
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 10:06 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 14 Feb 2010 19:23
CBX motor...cool!
So, this type of stand setup is impractical??
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narider
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posted February 14, 2010 11:28 AM
Here ya go Shane,
Theres some of a wooden bike stand I built at the house for me and Josh in that album also.
http://s1022.photobucket.com/albums/af341/TwinJugsRacing/Mobile%20Uploads/?start=all
Todd
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 11:38 AM
Nice. I have a set of plans for a wooden stand...but I can't even get to my garage right now.
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narider
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posted February 14, 2010 12:00 PM
The engine stand rotates fully, it will support the engine upside down even without the bottom case on and the full trans, crank and topend installed, and it has a full drip pan and rack that attaches to the bottom.
Like the ZX14 adapters I made, I also have a set for the Hayabusas, and is adaptable for just about any motors.
The bike lift was one of them snowed in weekends and is strong enough to hold up a car or truck no problem (we really don't need a Handy lift at the house right now or to spend the money on one and we have plenty of room for the ramp... so after talking to you in the other thread about my old wooden ones I decided to just build another one for now). It uses one of the Condors like you bought from us and holds the ramp in the bottom from the rear. And I already framed it in to hold 3 big (left to right) slide thru drawers above the ramp (when I get a chance to build them).
Todd
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BrooklynNYZX12
Zone Head
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posted February 14, 2010 12:26 PM
Thats a nice stand,if you look in on of Doug Meyers old threads he has a trick looking stand that was modified from a car engine stand. I think there is a tool company called K and L they make motorcycle specific engine stands,not 100 % sure on the name.Try Googling the name.
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Shane661
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posted February 14, 2010 12:35 PM
More car stand stuff:
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?topic=5319.0
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narider
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posted February 14, 2010 12:52 PM
The engine stand portion was only $29 from harbor freight after it being on sale and using that 20% discount.
Todd
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NOX
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posted February 14, 2010 08:50 PM
I have a KL stand. Works very well, if you need to split the cases, etc. You can rotate 360, and all, even with the cases split, for tranny work, etc.
I like it.
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NOX
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posted February 14, 2010 08:55 PM
quote:
The engine stand rotates fully, it will support the engine upside down even without the bottom case on and the full trans, crank and topend installed, and it has a full drip pan and rack that attaches to the bottom.
Like the ZX14 adapters I made, I also have a set for the Hayabusas, and is adaptable for just about any motors.
The bike lift was one of them snowed in weekends and is strong enough to hold up a car or truck no problem (we really don't need a Handy lift at the house right now or to spend the money on one and we have plenty of room for the ramp... so after talking to you in the other thread about my old wooden ones I decided to just build another one for now). It uses one of the Condors like you bought from us and holds the ramp in the bottom from the rear. And I already framed it in to hold 3 big (left to right) slide thru drawers above the ramp (when I get a chance to build them).
Todd
That is real nice......, will they work on a 12?
I like the idea of it holding the upper case the whole time......, and being able to remove everything from it......., only drawback on mine......., unless I find a different way form that that I have been mounting it........, hmmmm.....
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tcchin
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posted February 14, 2010 11:05 PM
I have a wooden frame made from 2x6's to hold the motor level while the pan is on. (Actually, I have several engine frames that are model-specific.) When the pan is off, I place the motor on a full-size baking sheet (good for containing fluids and fasteners) on top of my custom-made engine table. This table is 16" high and is framed with 2x4's with two layers of 1/2" plywood on top which form a 2'x2' work surface. The table is mounted to a 3" high mover's dolly so I can roll the engine around the garage if need be. The baking sheet allows me to rotate the motor in the plane of the table top with ease. Rotating the engine in other planes is just a matter of rolling the engine around on the baking sheet and shimming with wooden blocks. The best feature about my setup is that 19" is right at knee level. With my backless, swiveling, pneumatically-adjustable office chair, I can always find a comfortable position with this setup, and I always have good leverage because I can brace my elbows on my knees while I work. I've used full-height benches and engine stands in the past and always found that standing while doing motor work seemed a lot more strenuous that way, especially when doing detail work like measuring or porting.
I patterned my workspace around a dentist's office where everything is at knee-level, and you just swivel and roll around on your chair or stool without ever needing to stand up or reach too far for stuff. Since it's all home-made from leftover lumber, broken chairs and retired cooking implements, it was very affordable to construct.
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Shane661
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posted February 15, 2010 08:07 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 15 Feb 2010 16:08
quote:
I patterned my workspace around a dentist's office where everything is at knee-level, and you just swivel and roll around on your chair or stool without ever needing to stand up or reach too far for stuff. Since it's all home-made from leftover lumber, broken chairs and retired cooking implements, it was very affordable to construct.
I like the idea of an ergonomically designed work area. It sounds comfortable AND efficient. 
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dougmeyer
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posted February 15, 2010 09:57 AM
Edited By: dougmeyer on 15 Feb 2010 18:15
I don't think you can beat an "automotive style" engine stand, but ONLY if you build or purchase a head unit that will support the top case upside down and the bottom case when upright. A properly designed one rarely interferes with your work.There are several universal styles of support adapters available and the stand itself is dirt cheap at Harbor.
You can roll it around, you don't have to muscle the engine on the bench, you won't break or bend stuff rolling it around, you can put a drip pan underneath it, you can position it easily on each side to do clutch, ign etc.
No oil soaked wooden blocks with the attendant slivers, pinched hands, etc.
If you do more than one rebuild a year, spring for the good stuff, you won't regret it.
D.
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NOX
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posted February 23, 2010 07:36 AM
Does anyone have photos of just the upper case being held?
wondering what would keep it from flopping around......
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42 Wins
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2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
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Galfer Braking
AMSOIL
Steve's Speed Shop
Kawasaki Sports Center
Mickey Thompson Tires
Catalyst Racing Composites
Conway Cycle
Syed Leathers
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