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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: New engine blow-by question..... NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
oldkawboy


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posted January 13, 2010 01:53 PM        
New engine blow-by question.....

Hey Guys,

Just fired my old 12 off a couple days ago after installing a JE 1287 kit and it has what I think is quite a bit of blow-by. I've had the crankcase vented to a small filter in the tailpiece for years and noticed once the engine warms up the blow by starts.
With snow & ice on the roads all I've been able to do is 5 heat cycles in the garage.

I can do a leak down easy enough since all the bodywork is still off but was wondering if I should just give it more time and ride it with some load on the engine?

I'm using Shell Rotella and changed the oil & filter after the 4th heat cycle.

Thanks,
Dan

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oldkawboy


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posted January 13, 2010 02:05 PM        
Oh yeah........there is absolutely no smoke coming out the exhaust.
Dan

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whitehendrix


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fails!
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posted January 13, 2010 02:28 PM        
have you got to actually load and seat the rings? you can map the blowby with a flowmeter off thecase breather as well.
____________

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occasions. - ZRXDean

ill never own a busa unless
someone gives me one.... and then
ill sell it -KZScott





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KZScott


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posted January 13, 2010 02:51 PM        
my third heat cycle usually includes a big smokey burn out for a little more loading. i have no idea how much air should be coming out the tube however???
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Stuart Racing


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Posts: 999
posted January 13, 2010 03:05 PM        Edited By: Stuart Racing on 13 Jan 2010 23:14
Did you oil the cyl.`s and piston on install????
I always put my motor`s together dry(kz 1428cc drag motors), no oil on the pistons rings or cyl. sleeve`s....I know people will disagree with this procedure....But I never had any blowby problems or oil smoking out of the exh and no scoring of the sleeve`s....JMO.....
Maybe the ZX has a different procedure.....
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almost_les


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posted January 13, 2010 05:11 PM        
when i put in new rings, i had some blowby until after a few good high load runs for the rings to fully seat.
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WARBIRD


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posted January 13, 2010 06:12 PM        
Dan.........since it is too cold to ride and load it properly, take it to the dyno. Do a few good pulls in the upper gears. Nothing wrong with breaking it in initially on the dyno.
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WARBIRD


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posted January 13, 2010 06:46 PM        
Are you using the Rotella T 15-40 dino oil? Not the 5-40 synthetic...... right???
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oldkawboy


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posted January 13, 2010 06:57 PM        
I did oil the cylinders down after checking the ring gap and am using the dino Rotella.

Suppose to be decent tomorrow and I'm gonna ride the bike and do some roll ons. We've had over 10 days below freezing here and that's unusual.

I really appreciate the replies and ideas guys. I too think the engine needs to be loaded some and hopefully I can put some miles on it the next couple days and then to a dyno to see how far my map is off. I'm not gonna beat on it until I see where my a/f ratio is at.

Thanks again everyone,
Dan

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gilberjj


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posted January 14, 2010 01:15 AM        
Never use the Lucas assembly lube on the cylinder walls. We did that on a Honda build, and we couldn't get the rings to seat, no matter how much we smashed on it. Took it apart, cleaned it up, and reassembled it. There wasn't any more blowby after that....................... just so you know......
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Shane661


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posted January 14, 2010 07:35 AM        
Dan, you must immediately provide all details of your engine build.

Planning to take it to Maxton this year?

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oldkawboy


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posted January 14, 2010 08:18 AM        
Shane,

Not many details to tell. Just wanted to freshen the 12 up since there's so many 14's and second gen. 'Busa's running around here.

No race bike for sure, it's still gotta serve as my daily rider so it's pretty mild.
1287 kit, Karl's old Muzzy cams, cleaned the head up and new pipe. It's just been a winter project for me and the boys.

Still want to be able to ride it over to Maxton and run it like I have before. We are shooting for the second event there this spring. I'd like to run the first one while it's cool but the Hot Rod car thing eats up so much time.

Dan

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Shane661


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posted January 14, 2010 08:21 AM        
Sounds very cool, Dan. I too wouldn't mind making a few passes on my 12R this year, in full street trim.

Right now I have 250 miles on it. Did you end up using something different from the Pro Pipe?

Get that bike out there, and run it!

Shane

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WARBIRD


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posted January 14, 2010 10:35 AM        
It's been freezing here too Dan.........I'm just above you here in Kentucky. Ready to sell the Akrapovic yet?
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oldkawboy


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posted January 14, 2010 11:12 AM        
I've got the Pro Pipe on there but working on a little variation........ I'll post a picture up once I install the bodywork.

Hey Warbird,
May be selling tha AK after all..........ya still interested after all these years???? :-)

Dan

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WARBIRD


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posted January 14, 2010 12:14 PM        Edited By: WARBIRD on 14 Jan 2010 20:16
quote:
I've got the Pro Pipe on there but working on a little variation........ I'll post a picture up once I install the bodywork.

Hey Warbird,
May be selling tha AK after all..........ya still interested after all these years???? :-)

Dan


Oh gosh yes!! I called Lockhart Phillips the other day ( we are an LP dealer ) and the AK for the 12 has been discontinued. They had none left......... So I called our rep at Parts Unlimited and he said they had only 5 left. I was going to contact you about it and if you weren't ready to sell it I was going to snag one of those.

So YES, I would really love to have your Akrapovic for the 12. I love the sticker too.....it will go good with my carbon fiber from Hans............

Let me know how much Dan..............
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oldkawboy


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posted January 15, 2010 02:44 PM        
Charles......
PM sent, let me know if it comes thru okay.
Thanks,
Dan

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WARBIRD


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posted January 15, 2010 03:34 PM        
Got it.......sent one back.......
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2000redrocket


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posted January 15, 2010 05:40 PM        Edited By: 2000redrocket on 16 Jan 2010 02:08
anyone look into penn oil. rotella 15/40 i guess has ok zink and penn has more. just thought i would mention it. it is going into my duster engine only. jim should have the heads by the middle of next week.
it is getting close.
here is the site of out sort of local race oil.
http://www.bradpennracing.com/

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2000redrocket


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posted January 15, 2010 06:03 PM        Edited By: 2000redrocket on 16 Jan 2010 02:05
dam it i can not remember how to get links in.
got it url not hml or html

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dougmeyer


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posted January 15, 2010 06:39 PM        
The Rotella is the oil of choice for breaking in "vintage muscle car" engines with flat tappet cams. Oil the C-1 and C-2 guys Corvette forum swear by it.
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2000redrocket


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posted January 15, 2010 06:58 PM        
doug look into them. my engine guy in the dirt world uses them. he says rotella for a flat tappit cam if not the brad (short for brasford county i think} penn.the rotella is in the pulling truck engine.
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oldkawboy


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posted January 15, 2010 07:55 PM        
Update............

Rode the bike 25 miles today, took a break, let it cool and rode back home. The blow by is not oil????

I took the crankcase vent filter off and there is no oil in the hose, just water mist / droplets & I'm guessing condensation but don't know from where.
The radiator and overflow tank are at the same level with anti-freeze that I started with and the oil in the sight glass is clear.
I wrapped the end of the crankcase hose in a clean white shop towel for a while and there is no oil residue, just moisture.

I dunno.........thinking about taking up golf.

Dan

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2000redrocket


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posted January 15, 2010 09:14 PM        
sounds like it is good to go. i just mentioned the penn oil to get it out there for good oil other than rotella. guys here are switching to the rotella 5w40 syn for thier bikes.
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Stuart Racing


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N.H.R.A . Dragracing.
Posts: 999
posted January 16, 2010 06:36 AM        
Sounds like it`s just burning off excess moisture(condensation) in the oil....
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